According to the Maserati technical bulletin *any* engine (4.2 or 4.7) with an engine number of <148697 is potentially susceptible to variator issues
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Variators: Which engine
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Catmanv2
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You should have just started a new thread instead of jumping on two old ones that were similar....If you are unsure of what parts are called or what parts you need then you should probably let the shop doing it get the parts before you order the incorrect items...There are a few different variators depending on the engine# and you need the updated ones...There is machine work that needs to be done as well...Jason
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Am I correct that there doesn’t seem to be a definitive reason why these variators fail, except for oil starvation due to lack of a check valve? My GTS is an 09’ with 3300 miles and doesn’t have an issue yet. I’m looking for preventative measures to hopefully prevent the “death rattle”. I’m in the process of running 2 16AWG wires from the fuel pump relay fuse box to a switch in the cockpit where I can run the started for a few seconds without the car actually starting. My thoughts are, as Jason stated, that perhaps building oil pressure in the engine/variators before light-off might prevent premature wear in the variators. Any thoughts?
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The idea of just sitting there and cranking on a luxury automobile to get oil pressure to prevent a problem down the road seems absurd in my opinion..Everyone around you is gonna think the car won't start and is a POS...If you only have 3300, then pull the cam covers and have the cam caps machined with check valves installed..That will keep the oil in the variator and avoid embarrassment
.....Jason
.....Jason
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I agree that extra cranking is not ideal, and not for every start. I was thinking just first start of the day after the car has been sitting a few days. Anyways, getting the cam caps modified sounds like the best solution. My question is if that will truly fix the problem without replacing the variators. Why is there an updated variator if the assumed problem is the absence of a check valve? ThanksThe idea of just sitting there and cranking on a luxury automobile to get oil pressure to prevent a problem down the road seems absurd in my opinion..Everyone around you is gonna think the car won't start and is a POS...If you only have 3300, then pull the cam covers and have the cam caps machined with check valves installed..That will keep the oil in the variator and avoid embarrassment
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The correct fix is the check valves and the updated variators...The problem is a two part one...I wouldn't even worry about it at 3300 miles...I know it seems that it is this huge problem, but your only hearing from people with the issue...Plenty of people are running around with cars with the older variators and no problems....Jason
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Thanks J, I'll might get a wild hair this winter and pull the cam caps. Where would I send them to? Would they have to go through a certified service center first or could I send them direct to Maserati? Thanks for your help
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There is a place in California...They do them for anyone...About 400 bucks....J
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Thanks, I’m look them up!
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My 2012 GTS with 16k miles started doing this. Started the car after 1 week of sitting and heard that rattle noise loud and clear for about 3 seconds. I have to look up the engine number. I just bought the car about a month ago.
I also may have a bad valve cover gasket as I see smoke from the engine bay area for about 5 mins after starting and it smells like burning oil.
Is it possible to have that variator noise problem if the car is parked on a slightly sloped driveway and the oil from the variator escaping over time due to the position of the vehicle (front of car is higher than rear)?
I also may have a bad valve cover gasket as I see smoke from the engine bay area for about 5 mins after starting and it smells like burning oil.
Is it possible to have that variator noise problem if the car is parked on a slightly sloped driveway and the oil from the variator escaping over time due to the position of the vehicle (front of car is higher than rear)?
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A 2012 should have the modifications from the factory. I just installed a fuel pump bypass switch that allows me to crank the engine to build oil pressure without the engine firing off. I use it for the first start in the morning after the car has been sitting. I’ve noticed much smoother starts with less noise when the engine has been “primed”. Mine is a 09’ so I’m trying to get oil into the variators before starting. As for your oil leak, a mirror and flashlight is your friend. It’s obviously getting on your exhaust somewhere so look for stains or burnt oil on your headers. Cam covers are a likely culprit.
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I may just install one of these kits on mine as a preventative measure.
http://engineprelube.com/
Thoughts?
http://engineprelube.com/
Thoughts?
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I like it. It’s hard to argue against having oil pressure at first start. With my fuel pump bypass system it takes about 7 seconds of cranking to get good oil pressure before I release the switch. I only do this in the first start if the day so I’m not too worried about starter wear. Your system seems like a good investment.
looks good if you want to add another potential source for oil leaks.
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Typically oil leaks originate from rotating shaft seals and old gaskets, not from steel fittings and high quality oil lines, which this kit appears to have.
i stand by my statement.Typically oil leaks originate from rotating shaft seals and old gaskets, not from steel fittings and high quality oil lines, which this kit appears to have.
saying "usually" is one step off of assuming.
those two are an attempt to make an engine say, "hold my beer and watch this."
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If you happen to take a look at a typical factory dry sump system, it's got quiet a few lines and fittings with little issue. Adding an oil accumulator gives a wet sump system some of the benefits of a dry sump in addition to being able to pre-lube the engine. And yes, it's a fleeting argument to say making any type of system more complicated does not invite a higher chance of arising issues, I feel the benefits outweigh any potential and easy to fix leaks.
BTW: There are many different brand/types of these systems available. I'll likely use a solenoid system like the one I linked, but swap the one chamber tank with a dual chamber accumulator to eliminate any chance of air entering the system.
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A couple of us have added oil accumulators to our systems and have successfully fixed the Cam Variator problem. Parts were less than $500 bucks and takes only an afternoon in the garage.
SuicideChopShop's Thread
Slider429's Thread
SuicideChopShop's Thread
Slider429's Thread
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I've been reading these posts for a year now, What are "Variators", and what goes wrong with them ?
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