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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Thanks to Sliders recommendation on where to tap into the oil supply I was able to finish the install of the accumulator. List of items that were needed were

PARTS
  • $174.82 - ACCUSUMP ELECTRIC VALVE Part Number : 74-24-270X
  • $212.64 - ACCUSUMP 2QT Part Number : 74-24-026
  • $7.35 - M22x1.5 to -10AN fitting
  • $5.20 -10AN male to 1/2 NTP fitting
  • (2) $9.82 - 10AN straight pushlock fittings
  • $20.88 - 4 foot 5/8" 250psi pushlock hose
  • $1.68 - 5" stainless Wormgear Clamp
  • (2) qt of oil
TOOLS
  • 12mm allen socket
  • Torx bit T20
  • Torx bit T25
  • 13mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 1" Wrench
  • 7/8" Wrench
  • Large #3 Phillips Screwdriver
  • Wire Cutters
  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder
  • Shrink Tubing
  • Heat Gun
  • Tesa Tape Wire Loom Tape
 

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Discussion Starter #22
129507


I ended up mounting the accumulator just under and in front of the radiator. I had to relocate the horn to the left front and used the mounts for the front aerodynamic shield to secure the accumulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
129508
129509
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I modified the bracket that was closer to the passenger side by flattening edge and making a hole in the stainless band to keep it secure. You could use about a 7" stainless band on the other end to keep it even more secure, but it's not going anywhere with only one band.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
129516

129517
129518


I had some trouble finding a good switched 12V source for the solenoid. I used the orange/green wire for the front right headlight but it's now throwing the dash AFS Warning light. Guess the orange/green wire must be hooked up thru the can bus system and doesn't like the extra resistance.

After soldering and shrink wrapping the connection I used Tesa tape to wrap all the wires for that factory look.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Everything tested out good and doesn't have any leaks. The accumulator system holds about 40psi after shutting the car off. I'll update you guys tomorrow after a cold start.
129519
129521
 

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Nice work mate!! I’ve actually just returned from holiday yesterday so I’m going to have a look for a 12v feed today....will let you know how I go....but hoping to use a piggyback fused connection off one of the feeds under the dash....maybe the cigarette lighter? I found the below adapter which I’m hoping will help make for an easy install:
129528


Awesome work!! Neat install! I can’t wait to hear how it goes on cold start in morning.
I’ll also post how I go with power feed.
 
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That rubber line you have going to oil galley isn't gonna last long..You need to have a shop make you a line with the correct AN fittings...Jason
 

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Ok, I finally got the solenoid valve wired up.

I ran the negative to the mounting bracket for the main cover, and ran a fused piggyback wire in parallel with the Seat Heater fused feed for positive (you could easily use the cigarette lighter fuse but the piggyback I purchased was facing the wrong way which interfered with relay, but I know they sell other styles that would work).

I’m in Australia and will never use heated seats, but because it is running in parallel it wouldn’t be an issue if you wanted to anyway.

Super easy wiring option! Hardest part was trying to get the wire through the bulkhead rubber seal!!

All working perfectly! I’m also waiting to do a cold start which will hopefully be later this morning. Will let you know.

129531
 

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Discussion Starter #33
THIS IS AMAZING !!!! Its been over a week and the startup rattle has been completely gone now since installing the accumulator. Also, the orange and green wire I tapped off the headlight is now working without dash warning light errors. I disconnected the battery overnight and the warning lights went away.
 

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THIS IS AMAZING !!!! Its been over a week and the startup rattle has been completely gone now since installing the accumulator. Also, the orange and green wire I tapped off the headlight is now working without dash warning light errors. I disconnected the battery overnight and the warning lights went away.
SO HAPPY!!!
Glad we were able to sort this out! Mine also running perfectly! Great to have this forum to share and find solutions. Great work.
 

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THIS IS AMAZING !!!! Its been over a week and the startup rattle has been completely gone now since installing the accumulator. Also, the orange and green wire I tapped off the headlight is now working without dash warning light errors. I disconnected the battery overnight and the warning lights went away.
Great Work! Some follow-up Questions...
What year is your car? Engine number? How many miles on the engine?
How long had you been experiencing the variator clatter on startups?
Does the mod affect maximum quarts to fill during an oil change? How do you get the dirty oil out of the accumulator?
Any noticeable effects so far from diverting a couple quarts of oil from the flow pattern while the engine is running? Or do I misunderstand the plumbing routing?
Please report back from time to time so long-term effects of this solution get documented.

Again, SUPER post!
KTBD
 

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Great Work! Some follow-up Questions...
What year is your car? Engine number? How many miles on the engine?
How long had you been experiencing the variator clatter on startups?
Does the mod affect maximum quarts to fill during an oil change? How do you get the dirty oil out of the accumulator?
Any noticeable effects so far from diverting a couple quarts of oil from the flow pattern while the engine is running? Or do I misunderstand the plumbing routing?
Please report back from time to time so long-term effects of this solution get documented.

Again, SUPER post!
KTBD
Thanks Mate!
Yes, very happy with the results!
My GTS is a 2009 4.7 wet sump with 34,000km (in Australia). The rattle was bad before this mod, lasting at least 3 secs on startup. I bought it with the rattle so not sure how long it has been doing it.

I was originally going to use a sandwich adapter in between block and oil filter until I found the oil port. My accumulator is 1.5L so I just added 1.5L to Engine after initial run, so you will need more oil during oil changes (note: this engine has approx 1.5L between the lower and upper marks on dipstick, so perfect).

The system is pretty straight forward, the Accumulator T’s off the main oil circuit. Before starting, the Accumulator is precharged with 6psi of Air. On initial startup the Accumulator solenoid opens and the Accumulator fills with oil via Engine Oil pressure. This only takes a couple of seconds to reach approx 50psi. (Engine still lubed during this time due to path of least resistance). Whilst engine running this line stays pressurised and acts as buffer for those high speed corners 😁.
Then as soon as engine stops the solenoid valve closes and stores this pressure until next startup.
(At this point after initial run you can check your oil level and add your 1.5L or whatever you need to make your level about halfway).

So now, every time you start the car:
Turn the key to MAR for a couple of secs, solenoid valve opens and prelubes the engine, then turn to start and the engine starts with no noise whatsoever!! The Accumulator is then filled back up by oil pressure, no starvation to engine as that line is already full of oil, and it all happens so quickly. This cycle now just continues each time engine started/stopped.

During service, just turn the key to MAR, solenoid valve opens and all the oil is forced out of the Accumulator by the 6psi residual air pressure! Then you just let it all drain down to sump as normal.

So far, I have not noticed any issues or abnormalities.....just nice quiet startups 😁

Hope this helps,
Cheers, Simon
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
I have a 2008 Gran Turismo with over 78K miles. Build number 39032. Startup noise started intermittently about 3 years and for at least the last 2 years its been every time I cold start. Rattle would take 1-2 seconds to go away. Since the accumulator installation a couple weeks ago, I haven't had a single rattle. I would have fixed it back when it started, but the cost of the repairs didn't make sense if the rattle wasn't hurting anything. Dealership estimated that it would cost $12K to fix the variators and $6K for the heat exchanger and coolant hose. I tried a independent mechanic and they said they didn't work on cars that were this old.

I've had a couple other issues with my GT that I was able to fix myself. Had it not been for the guidance from this forum, it probably would have cost more to have a dealership fix than the car is worth.
  • Had to replace the heat exchanger due to a leaky o-ring that was mixing oil into the coolant
  • Had the coolant hose over the transmission burst and had to replace it
  • GT would wear thru a set of tires every 5K -10K miles (Factory settings have too much toe-out. Corrected uneven wear by having the alignment shop set to maximum possible toe-in)
  • Brake pads & Rotors
  • Oil Changes
  • Brake Fluid swap
  • Replace Coolant Thermostat and Sensors.
  • Backup sensor inside the rear bumper came unglued and needed to be reattached.
Even with all these issues, my wife still loves driving the car and has no desire to upgrade it anytime soon.
 

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That braided hose with the AN connector - in your picture it's awfully close to the exhaust manifold. Do you think a bit of bendable heat shield material will be needed around the hose to preclude any long-term heat issues on the hose?
 
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