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Cam Variator oil feed location

27K views 81 replies 18 participants last post by  sinver  
#1 ·
I have a 2008 GT that has the Cam Variator clacking noise on startup. Im going to try adding an Accusump to pressurize the variators on startup. Does anyone know what the best location would be to tap into the oil system for the oil feed and the best place to return the oil into the system to pressurize the system at startup?
 
#2 ·
I'm thinking that is not the best way to try to fix that issue on a wet sump car....The clacking sound is because the variator is not locking in the base position...When working correctly the variator locks when the engine is shut off and when it gets oil again on start up it releases the locking pin..Yours are not locking period so just getting oil to them may or may not stop the clacking...It is certainly just a batch for a bigger issue...Doesn't the accusump come with instructions? Jason
 
#3 ·
It does have instructions, but they aren't specific to a Maserati. One of the options is to get an adapter that enables you to be able to connect between the oil filter and the engine block which provides an input port for the Accusump. The other option is to connect directly into an engines threaded port into the oil gallery if available.
 
#10 ·
Just heading down the same path. Accusump in and out would be at same spot. Looking into the two plugs in the block above the oil filter. Remind me of oil cooler connections but so far have not been able to find out which is which. My searches for oil circuit diagram have yielded nothing but interesting sidetrips. Any suggestions or information? Suppose could remove and install test fittings but was hoping to avoid that if someone knew answer.
 
#12 ·
I have also just been looking into the 2 plugs in the block above the oil filter. It appears to be that the bottom plug is for coolant passage and the top plug is for oil! Appears to be right into the main line from the filter up to the heads? But I could be wrong, hard to tell from drawings I’ve seen. Would be great if someone on here could confirm? If so it would be a nice easy install for Accumulator.
I also looked into the sandwich adapter idea in line with filter which may also work. Adapter is 47mm thick and same diameter as filter. And the guy in Australia can make thread to fit. Seems like there is just enough room to make it work with rubber drain boot removed and 1 bracket moved that holds an electrical connector.
I know this is not the correct fix. I would prefer to change variators and modify cam cap BUT a huge difference in cost!! If adding an Accumulator will prelube/pressurise variators on startup and hold them in correct position surely that will prolong their life?
 
#11 ·
I’m in Australia and doing the same thing. I have a Morosso accumulator ready, and in the process of purchasing the sandwich adapter for between Oil Filter and the Block. The Accumulator will then be connected via a single AN10 port built into the adapter. A solenoid valve is connected to the Accumulator which opens on signal from ignition which then releases stored pressure to “pressurize” the variators and hopefully stop noise whilst oil pump builds pressure. Pump pressure then takes over and refills accumulator, and solenoid valve closes to hold pressure once engine stops. Sounds good in theory??
You are correct that a guy here in Australia makes adapter with M24 x 2 thread to suit.
My 2 questions are:
How much clearance is there between current oil filter and chassis/framework? The sandwich adapter is 47mm thick. Therefore we would need at least that amount plus the length of threaded nipple to allow room to screw filter back on. Does anyone know current clearance and whether this adapter may fit (with rubber drain boot removed)?
Secondly, Where can I physically install the Accumulator? It is roughly 10” long by 4.5” diameter. Is there a spot under cover where this may fit?
 
#13 ·
Removed the threaded oil filter mount on block and was surprised to find different threads on the block - same 24mm diameter, but fine thread. Looks like will be spending some time on the lathe, as a simple 24x2 threaded tube will not work. Current idea is to turn down threaded rod end to fit inside original mount and weld at block end (easier alignment) then drill center out. Half-width nut to hold adapter against block, then screw on filter. Wish had spent some time investigating plug higher up before ordering sandwich plate.
 
#14 ·
Have you spoken to the guy here in Australia who makes Sandwich Apapters? Jackmaster. He can make pretty much any adapter you want. You can leave the original threaded adapter in the block and then it uses a centre M24 x 2 female to male adapter to hold the sandwich plate against the block. Then the filter just screws on to the adapter. Was going to be about $200 Australian and about 47mm thick. How thick is your plate? I checked on GT and there is an electrical connection bracket that needs to be bent or moved to allow clearance on mine. But I would be returning the plate if you can and use the plug fitting on top straight into the block. Then you only need an M22 x 1.5 to AN10 fitting for your hose, about $10!
My photos are here in case you haven’t seen them:
Good luck. Hopefully one of us gets this to work.
 
#15 ·
#17 ·
Looks good and should work. What size Accusump did you go for? I ended up with a Morosso 1.5L Accumulator. It fits perfectly up in the top Left corner of Engine Bay near brake booster. Even fits under the cover.
Have you done a test run yet?
I set mine up yesterday!! I used a brass M22x1.5 adapter to 1/4” female. This is screwed into where the top brass plug was above oil filter. Then used a 3/8” hose barb and 10mm oil/fuel hose run up to Accumulator. (I’ll attach photos below)
I just did a test run with manual shutoff valve and the results are amazing!!!
My rattle was very bad lasting about 5 secs on cold startup after a few days. After prelube with Accumulator......nothing!!! No rattle at all and runs so smooth.
Over the next couple of days I’ll work on setting it up permanently and install the solenoid valve to run off the ignition.
Would love to hear how yours goes!
Definitely worth doing!
All the best
 

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#20 ·
Yes, as Jason said, mines Wet sump, so assuming it will be different.

I have not seen the Dry sump setup, but from research I have seen I think there is a fitting (for Maserati Accumulator) in the inboard side of the head, under the intake manifold, near the front of the Engine, on both heads?
I believe a couple of guys have Tee’d into that fitting with success (there are a couple of other threads on here).

As for the valve, I’m connecting up a Solenoid valve with the Accumulator that will be connected to ignition power, therefore, turn key to ignition....valve opens and prelubes engine (and Variators) for a few seconds....then key to start.....no Rattle!!!? Solenoid stays open while driving which allows oil pump to refill Accumulator (also has benefit of maintaining oil pressure during high speed cornering etc ?). Then when engine stopped....solenoid valve closes and stores pressure for next startup. There is also a manual shutoff valve on Accumulator in case you need to isolate.

I have more info and pictures here in another thread:

Currently it is just set up with a test hose but works great. Im in process of setting up with proper braided hose and fittings now and will post more photos when complete. I’m also going to try to put some videos up on YouTube at some point to show dramatic difference it makes! Will add links here when I get a chance to complete.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Thanks to Sliders recommendation on where to tap into the oil supply I was able to finish the install of the accumulator. List of items that were needed were

PARTS
  • $174.82 - ACCUSUMP ELECTRIC VALVE Part Number : 74-24-270X
  • $212.64 - ACCUSUMP 2QT Part Number : 74-24-026
  • $7.35 - M22x1.5 to -10AN fitting
  • $5.20 -10AN male to 1/2 NTP fitting
  • (2) $9.82 - 10AN straight pushlock fittings
  • $20.88 - 4 foot 5/8" 250psi pushlock hose
  • $1.68 - 5" stainless Wormgear Clamp
  • (2) qt of oil
TOOLS
  • 12mm allen socket
  • Torx bit T20
  • Torx bit T25
  • 13mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 1" Wrench
  • 7/8" Wrench
  • Large #3 Phillips Screwdriver
  • Wire Cutters
  • Soldering Iron
  • Solder
  • Shrink Tubing
  • Heat Gun
  • Tesa Tape Wire Loom Tape
 
#25 · (Edited)
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I had some trouble finding a good switched 12V source for the solenoid. I used the orange/green wire for the front right headlight but it's now throwing the dash AFS Warning light. Guess the orange/green wire must be hooked up thru the can bus system and doesn't like the extra resistance.

After soldering and shrink wrapping the connection I used Tesa tape to wrap all the wires for that factory look.
 
#28 ·
Nice work mate!! I’ve actually just returned from holiday yesterday so I’m going to have a look for a 12v feed today....will let you know how I go....but hoping to use a piggyback fused connection off one of the feeds under the dash....maybe the cigarette lighter? I found the below adapter which I’m hoping will help make for an easy install:
129528


Awesome work!! Neat install! I can’t wait to hear how it goes on cold start in morning.
I’ll also post how I go with power feed.