According to the Maserati technical bulletin *any* engine (4.2 or 4.7) with an engine number of <148697 is potentially susceptible to variator issues
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Variators: Which engine
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Catmanv2
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I guess the engine number is in the Warranty Card Service Book - Found the one for mine in the pouch with the actual Owners Manual Book - separate book - same leather pouch with different cubby slots - ask the owner to see it - says the engine number. They also say the engine number is in the door frame but I don't think it was on mine - just VIN.
Mine is a 2013 Sport but the engine number is 205 and XXX change.
I don't understand what you're doing. How can you plug a variator in without "fitting it" I see you might be in England, maybe "fitting" means something different there than I understand in the U.S.?
As to see the "Warranty book" which contains the warranty card - separate from but in the same leather pouch as the onwers manual - mine had engine number on the card.
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Apologies, I wasn't clear. I plugged in 2 new variators without actually installing them. The original variators are still fitted to the car.
As an aside to all this and accepting what Jason says about having to replace variators, as it is the spring not returning, I am tempted to do an intermediate fix that may just extend the life a bit whilst I mentally prepare myself and my garage…
So I have two possibilities I could try:
Put in a Marco oil pump with filter to take oil from oil cooler line and pump it in the plug/port above the oil filter (with one way valve). This will be just to pre-oil. Turn it on for 20-30 seconds before start to pre oil, wait a few seconds and then start engine (so as not to set off an oil pressure code).
or
Buy a secondhand accumulator from a Ferrari or Maserati (dry sump accumulator for the older variations as the accumulators are cheap) and stick that in with a solenoid in place of pump above and just use to surge oil pressure for a few seconds at start. I would go for the accusump, but they have gone very expensive.
I need an oil pump anyway for my other project (Model T Ford, as I want a system to polish the oil), so I could just try the pump option anyway.
Anyway point of post is just to see what the latest thoughts are on accumulators and pre-oiling? obviously it is a sticking plaster to some extent, but if it gets me a few more thousand miles…
When I do the variators, should I change the oil check valves too?
So I have two possibilities I could try:
Put in a Marco oil pump with filter to take oil from oil cooler line and pump it in the plug/port above the oil filter (with one way valve). This will be just to pre-oil. Turn it on for 20-30 seconds before start to pre oil, wait a few seconds and then start engine (so as not to set off an oil pressure code).
or
Buy a secondhand accumulator from a Ferrari or Maserati (dry sump accumulator for the older variations as the accumulators are cheap) and stick that in with a solenoid in place of pump above and just use to surge oil pressure for a few seconds at start. I would go for the accusump, but they have gone very expensive.
I need an oil pump anyway for my other project (Model T Ford, as I want a system to polish the oil), so I could just try the pump option anyway.
Anyway point of post is just to see what the latest thoughts are on accumulators and pre-oiling? obviously it is a sticking plaster to some extent, but if it gets me a few more thousand miles…
When I do the variators, should I change the oil check valves too?
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I know this was a month ago, hope this helps... im not sure if pre-oiling will have any impact on longevity of your variators. when I pulled mine apart (52K Km = 32K miles) from the newer 4.7 with the return valve already inserted on Cam cap #1, the backing plate was worn away where the pin drops in and out. ie. soft backing plate material. probably the same company that made the mercedes M156 variators as they have exactly the same issue. Fortunately for the Mercs, 63 motorsports makes a hardened plate that should last a long time (5 years into it for me with no issues) but for my maser, I just ordered a pair and installed them, hopefully they last another 50K. Its just maintenance on these cars.Steve
One thing that does confuse me is that mine never makes the ratchet, scary tapping sound that you see on YouTube and such. I just get a whirling sound for 2 seconds. Actually it’s not made any noise for the last couple of weeks. I do wonder what the difference in noise is between solenoids failing and variators failing.
I am sticking in the accumulator this weekend, so will see what it does. I believe that as my sound is not constant, that I have a while before I need to do the variators anyway. I guess I will do the solenoids too to make sure all is good and that coolant hose too as may as well whilst everything is in bits.
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The solenoids are there to advance the cam at medium throttle by supplying oil pressure through ports to the variator. The variator is or should be locked at startup. So they won’t make a noise or cause rattle on startup. You can test the solenoids by supplying 12v to the terminals. You’ll hear a click if it works. If you’re tearing down the front cover it’s a hell of a job to get to everything so may as well change things whilst your in there. I did chains, guides, water passage o-rings, and solenoids even though the originals were still ok. The heater hose tends to break taking it off too.
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Do you happen to know your engine number? I am curious if it was built after the supposed factory fix. Also, what was the build date of your car?
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My build date is 4/2011 and it has the non return check valve in it, and worn variator after 50k (35kMi)
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You cannot remove the cam cap without breaking or bending something as the variator pin interferes with the removal. The variator needs to be loosened at least ( therefore you will need another thrust washer and bolt anyway- single use stretch bolts on the 4.7). There are plenty of video and pdf instructions on how to do this. I would say that unless your very careful not to move anything, the exhaust cam plate needs to be loosened as well to retention the chain once the intake variator is retightened.
steve
??? Sorry, I have no clue what you are talking about but I found this YouTube video below and it seems like those guys were able to remove the cap without removing nor loosening the variator?? (around 12:17 mark) Or is it different because the video is the 4.2L engine...
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Hello,
I've just purchased a 2009 GT F1 with 25k miles, CEL and P1015 error code. From reading this forum I understand that it is most likely a variator problem and a normal procedure is to do on both sides:
1) Machine cam caps and add check valves
2) New solenoid valves
3) New variators (and timing change/adjustment or taking chances with camshafts locked with ViseGrips).
Assuming that the clicking startup noise is only on the left, what are the chances that only doing #1 and #2 on the left side (removing valve covers only and the parts mentioned) will be enough to fix the problem? Is it worth trying first? I would prefer to avoid re-doing the timing. Or is there any further diagnosis to determine if the variators need changes? Is the P1015 code providing any additional clue regarding what went wrong? Engine oil has been changed recently btw. Thanks!!!
I've just purchased a 2009 GT F1 with 25k miles, CEL and P1015 error code. From reading this forum I understand that it is most likely a variator problem and a normal procedure is to do on both sides:
1) Machine cam caps and add check valves
2) New solenoid valves
3) New variators (and timing change/adjustment or taking chances with camshafts locked with ViseGrips).
Assuming that the clicking startup noise is only on the left, what are the chances that only doing #1 and #2 on the left side (removing valve covers only and the parts mentioned) will be enough to fix the problem? Is it worth trying first? I would prefer to avoid re-doing the timing. Or is there any further diagnosis to determine if the variators need changes? Is the P1015 code providing any additional clue regarding what went wrong? Engine oil has been changed recently btw. Thanks!!!
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35 Posts
FYI - P1015 :intake camshaft and LH main bearing cranks correlation (signal) no singal.
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