Maserati Forum banner

Transmission failure, off and on

12K views 48 replies 7 participants last post by  Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta  
#1 ·
A couple of weeks ago I was driving along in traffic using Auto mode and she starts beeping and flashing "transmission failure". I noticed the car seemed stuck in one gear, so I manually upshifted it. The car shifted gears and stopped flashing and beeping, we went on our merry way.

Today I was driving about 50 mph in Auto mode, probably was in 6th gear. As I came to a stop she starts beeping and flashing transmission failure, and won't let up. I switched to Manual mode and it showed me gear '5', like she had gotten stuck in that gear while stopping. Would not go into Reverse or Neutral, would not shift gears at all. I shut the car off, started it up, and all was well. Finished my trip around town today with no other issues.

When the car isn't doing this, all transmission/clutch behavior is normal, so there doesn't seem to be anything mechanically wrong. Clutch just checked out at 75% remaining in October.

Any ideas would be welcome on this, my own theory is that the TCU is trying to die on me and is just intermittently failing for now.
 
#2 ·
My 2005 QP was doing the same thing on an off and sometimes even went into Neutral while cruising with no warning. I finally took it to a Maserati/ Italian car specialist who scanned with the correct type of scanner. NO related faults came up but he said the trans oil was a bit low. So he topped it up (has to be done with car on hoist and slowly from what I saw) and he also adjusted the clutch take-up mechanism. On that front, it has behaved itself since then. It still sometimes pays up if it gets hot and you've been driving a little more spritely, but much better than it was.
 
#8 ·
Sean, if you have a lift, you could check level, and otherwise check if anything is leaking. Of course you likely already have checked the garage floor or usual outdoors parking spot...
Actually I haven't yet done so.... isn't there a specific alarm for low F1 fluid on the panel?
 
#9 ·
There is a transmission failure warning and a low fluid warning..They are two separate things...If it has a transmission failure warning then the TCM needs to be scanned for error codes...Jason
 
#11 ·
I believe the early cars are SOFAST3, not SOFAST3+, and the TCU's may be different. TBH I don't understand what this actually means, i.e. is it so-called firmware versus software? CFC301F.62 might be the correct TCU for you, or is that the correct one for the later SOFAST3+ cars? The SportGT's, 2007, use CFC301F.64.

If you cannot get another TCU, and if you have the stomach for it, consider converting it to 6MT, which I don't think is easy...?
 
#13 ·
The owner of my usual shop, who also works on cars, told me in 2017 that the TCU is a common point of failure if there is some electrical issue with the battery, which is how mine got fried. He told me about his frustrations with trying to get one "fixed" or reprogrammed, and then showed me a box filled with old dead units. He kept them in some hope of one day being able to revive them. I took mine home, still have it around somewhere. He said we were lucky to find a replacement for mine within a week, he had cars in his care that waited six months to find a compatible unit. He tried mine with a new unit at first, but as expected it would not shift beyond gear '3'. I'm not going to get an answer on this until the New Year at this point, we will see.
 
#14 ·
Sean, I'm not trying to throw you under the bus, but I'd hate for you to continue to have problems and never find solutions based on what this tech told you about that era of TCU. We've talked about this before and I'm with Jason on this - they are fairly durable units that rarely fail. Some were manufactured with firmware that is specific of the NCR version that your MY car has, and based on that some cars are better performing than others. But having a "pile of bad TCUs" in a bucket (your quote from years ago) based on some battery failure is simply hard to believe. Your car has megafuses and a battery ECU that will fry long before a power surge reaches the TCU with any kind of load. I've replaced both primarily due to people charging their cars with a quick charger without disconnecting the battery cables.

Either way, there are a number of things that can cause those symptoms. Hook the car up to a SD3 and read the codes. Any tech with experience in F1s will agree that a combination of codes will point in maybe one or two directions when trying to diagnose. Since your display flashed, that means you were thrown into recovery mode for some reason. There could be internal solenoid leakage, could be the pressure sensor, your accumulator, the actuator tooth could be drifting slightly out of spec, or hell, even one/two of your ABS module sensors could be starting to fail which would cause an F1 to act erratically as it tries to shift into limp mode.

My "guess" would be you have a pressure deprivation problem stemming from the accumulator, EV solenoids or something similar. This is why it runs when restarted, as the pump brings the pressure back up to 50 bar, allowing it to start.
 
#15 ·
It's definitely going in to get figured out, I will report back next month. Problem has happened three times and gets worse each time. The third time it took about 10 minutes before it went away after several restarts. I don't know if this is a coincidence, but all three failures happened when the car was trying to automatically downshift. After I noticed this was true the first two times, I started driving it in Manual mode, and all was well for a couple of days until it crapped out when I was stopping in 3rd gear, when it automatically downshifted it got stuck again and did the failure. Seems like an amazing coincidence, that it could do all my manual shifts but got stuck on the rare one that I let it do on its own in Manual mode.
 
#17 ·
OK well my shop has had the car for a week and put 50 miles on it, they haven't seen it fail yet. They say that the TCU itself has not stored any codes from the past failures, but based on the behavior they believe it is the F-1 pump and/or its relay beginning to fail. A very slight drop in pressure from the F-1 pump will produce the behavior, despite the pump running within spec 99% of the time. They believe if it were any other kind of sensor or issue the failure would be far more frequent and the car would become undriveable, or it would show other behaviors like going into Neutral while driving. Their assessment correlates with the fact that the distinctive sound made by the pump priming when I open the driver door has changed in a way that has worried me lately.
 
#18 ·
I agree...The pumps are not all that great and when they start to go bad they will work and then not work...I have smacked many with a hammer just to get a car in the shop for pump replacement....Jason
 
#21 ·
OK, the saga has ended with the shop replacing my F-1 fluid pump and we are back on the road as the possibly only QP5 terrorizing the streets of Fresno. Eventually they saw it fail and tapped it with a hammer to get it going again, so they are quite sure of the diagnosis now. I guess it was good that it failed in stages, although it's disappointing that the computer doesn't store these codes so techs can read them later.
 
#22 ·
Glad you got it going. My “no crank and no pump” problem was fixed today. Finally got enough people to push the heavy car and got it on the hoist. After checking all relays and fuses I decided to find this infamous F1 pump and gave it a few taps at a couple of different points. Then lowered the car, opened the door and voila ! The pump started whirring. With that working, it must tell the computer that it’s OK to crank the engine because before, there was no sign or cranking at all.
Drove it about 80 kms today and tonight and seems to be all good. Now I’m brought the problem on when I let the battery drain too much and then tried to jump start and then it just stopped cranking altogether. I thought I had dried something but seems it was the pump that got “stuck”. Not sure if it’s a one off or a sign that it’s on its way out. Prior to this haven’t had any F1 pump issues in terms of having to tap it to work. Hope it stays the same but always fearful of the worst !!
 
#29 ·
Glad you got it going. My “no crank and no pump” problem was fixed today. Finally got enough people to push the heavy car and got it on the hoist. After checking all relays and fuses I decided to find this infamous F1 pump and gave it a few taps at a couple of different points. Then lowered the car, opened the door and voila ! The pump started whirring. With that working, it must tell the computer that it’s OK to crank the engine because before, there was no sign or cranking at all.
Drove it about 80 kms today and tonight and seems to be all good. Now I’m brought the problem on when I let the battery drain too much and then tried to jump start and then it just stopped cranking altogether. I thought I had dried something but seems it was the pump that got “stuck”. Not sure if it’s a one off or a sign that it’s on its way out. Prior to this haven’t had any F1 pump issues in terms of having to tap it to work. Hope it stays the same but always fearful of the worst !!
Yes if you have a total transmission failure, it is a "no start" situation, the car will not crank. Apparently there are degrees of transmission failure, because when I was going through the pump issues, my car would always start even if it was showing 'transmission failure.'
 
#27 ·
That is possible, but it probably should have been explained to you IMO...Their time isn't free, but you are talking about just driving a car..We send an employee home with the car and don't charge people for stuff like that generally..J
 
#30 ·
I certaiy hope the F1 pump is not becoming scarce. Said pump, I believe, is the same unit from the first of the CC 4200's right to when the QPV ceased being available somewhere in the world as a DuoSelect. The GT pump is different, I believe, i.e. upgraded...

Possibly same as on the Alfa Selespeed and the Fiat variant, too.
 
#44 ·
They are exactly the same part with the same part number from Magneti Marelli.

Much of the price difference (far from being simply profit taking) will be accounted for by different storage and distribution chain costs <shrug>

Totally get that you don't want to haggle over the price. Some people would like an alternative.]

C
 
#36 ·
So many times in the past I have had work done on a car that was done incorrectly and had to be redone. Other times, I have brought in a car with some problem and it was never really fixed. Roselli's is the only shop I have ever patronized where neither of those things has happened. When I can get the right solution done right every time, quibbling about the prices is not really a priority at that point.
 
#39 · (Edited)
The other thing is that all of the North American QP-V's are SOFAST3 or 3+ (like, I believe, Ferrari 430's), and the '07 DuoSelect GT Sport (Sport GT?) is yet further developed by way of transaxle control. All of these QP-V's have further refinement versus the 4200 coupé's, spyders, and all of the gransport's... They are not swoopy 2 dr's though, obviously.