Somethings really weird here. The water had to come from somewhere if it leaked out. When u parked in the lot was the water running out with the engine off or on. Are u certain that when u pulled in the lot the car wasnt overheating........You say u topped everything off. If it were me, especially the oil, id drain the oil and start from scratch so that u know for certain u have the proper amount of oil in the engine, and of course change the filter

 

The engine was running when I pulled into the parking lot. My girlfriend got out of the passenger side and noticed coolant spurting from the front right wheel. I saw the giant stream of it flowing out from under the nose of the car. I know the reservoir is on the passenger side, and that the overflow hose goes into the right wheel well, but my gauges showed no overheating.

 

If it didnt overheat id say u have a leak somewhere. And luckily u caught it before it did overheat.....As i mentioned, id start from scratch. Change ur oil filter and oil so u know u got rite amount in there. Then go from there and check for coolant leaks and within it all hopefully ur ticking goes away. But id take a close look at what comes out of ur oil resevoir tank and bottom engine drain when draining then proceed how u want.

 

Could your oil filter have failed? If pieces blocked some of the oil lines you could have lifters failing, the ticking noise, and some blocked lines lack of lubrication could cause hot-spots in the engine causing boiling. This could also explain the "gasket material" in the oil. The oil scavenge pumps also have filters internal to the engine so if they block you'd get a low oil level (oil stays in engine and makes bad noises). Take off the filter and cut it in half to check. But I sure hope this is not your problem because if it is your engine is gone. Please tell us when you find out what it is. Good luck.

 

Tony, i agree with what u say, however, if this is the case as ur saying, wouldnt his oil pressure have dropped to nothing? He was saying his gauges read normal.....somethings really amiss here.....jkrv,,,, How could ur oil pressure gauge read normal if ur down alot of oil

 

I wonder if this is the oil / water pump failure. Starved the top end?

C

 

Well ur just gonna have to start fresh as far as oil goes. Drain it out from both drains, change ur filter then put 6 1/2 quarts in. Start it up see what happens. Add ur oil till it gets to the proper level with the engine running. The coolant can just be topped off cuz u can see it.....question - are u sure that when u checked the oil in that parking lot that the engine was running

 

The car was not running when I checked the oil. The coolant overflowed while the vehicle was running after pulling into the lot.

 

I've read in many other postings that the engine needs to be running to get a proper level.
I thought that when you check it when it isn't running, it'll give a false low reading??
If it wasn't running and you added oil, isn't there a threat of over pressurized oil?
(I imagine that this wouldn't be as much an issue since you towed it home. )
Hopefully someone else can confirm or ease my concern.
Just thinking out load here.

 

The bits in your oil are silicone, like would be used to seal up the front timing cover or valve cover gaskets. It's not unusual for that stuff to collect in the oil, but usually it all drains out during the first oil change.

There's a chance the oil pick up screen is blocked from these silicone bits, causing oil starvation. I would probably say it's a good idea to pull the oil pump off and inspect the pick up screens for blockage.

How much coolant did you have to add to get the level up where it's supposed to be?

 

Josh, if one of the scavenge pumps was blocked, how would it show other than physically checking?

 

Low oil pressure and noisy lifters or variators, followed by noisy and failed rod bearings.

 

Thanks. I was just figuring that the scavenge pumps would be the first to clog, but if the other was getting some oil to the tank, the pressure pump would maintain system pressure for a while. Oil would pool in the engine and eventually either purge or starve the tank. In the meanwhile, the volume moving through the system would be inadequate for cooling. IDK, just thinking with my fingers

 

Yea, I see where you're going here. In that instance, theoretically, the oil would be evacuated from the tank, pumped into the crankcase and eventually over fill the crankcase. If this actually happened, it would explain why the engine is noisy and why the oil level in the tank is low and why there aren't any leaks. But it is not likely some stray strands of silicone would do that. However, if the scavenge pump filters failed and the silicone and screen particulates got into the pressure pump, you'll have a loss of pressure and oil starvation.

Since the OP states that oil pressure looks correct, we can assume that is coincidence that the ticking noise is just now being noticed and is related to the engine oil needing to be serviced and that he has a simple engine coolant leak.

 

The engine should be running. If checked when not running, there is a high likelihood of reading a false low. Over-servicing can cause the system to purge into the intake upstream of the MAF causing problems and/or damage. YMMV but it's best to check properly.

 

Drained the rest of the oil last night. Level looked to have been at most 0.5 quart high; I've always had the car running when I top off the oil during changes, but never thought the level could be that affected by running/non-running, so thanks to all those that pointed that out. Found this little guy in the drain pan though... will be removing the filter tonight and cutting open; I expect more crud.

 

I assume u drained it from both drains. That looks like a piece of filter. Is it soft to the touch?

 

No, it is a metal flake. Hard. Somewhat brittle.

 

I've attached photos of the oil filter after cutting it open. I cut apart the assembly and looked at the sheet of material and I did not see any solid particulates on either side of the filter material.* I took a photo of that as well, but it did not turn out well.* I'm not sure if this bodes well, that there aren't many other bits floating around or not, that any bits just haven't made it to the filter.* Would an oil change and drain to try and flush any other flakes out be a good idea, or is further disassembly (valve covers off?) a better next step?

 

Compared to other filters I've seen this one looks very dirty and doesn't look right. I think the oil flows inward so you should have a good look inside the center of the filter. There are many small oil passages in an engine so it wouldn't take much to block a line somewhere in the engine and things might look OK except for where you had the hot spot. Was the filter a Maserati filter and how old was it?

 

Here are innermost surface and outermost surface of the filter.
Oil filter was changed at 69,395 and car had 71,511 at time of breakdown.

 

The filter in these pictures actually looks good to me. It looks like you might have to start disassembling the engine and looking for possible failures. Your initial post would be consistent with mechanical wear some place in the engine. That could cause the noise, friction while there's still oil pressure and local boiling that would give you a normal coolant temp. Sorry, good luck and keep us posted.

 

I agree that looks pretty dirty. But ill add this. I changed my oil 3,400 then at 5k. Its was clean. Then i waited to 10k to change it and it was very dirty meaning dark in color

 

Sad to hear indeed. Keep us updated, we are always glad to help with whatever we can.

 

Jkrv,,,,unless im seeing things looks like to me theres a piece or two on the left side and center of the filter

 

Hi Lorenz, when I pulled the filter material apart there was nothing in any of the creases, nor were there any filaments/shavings/flakes. The camera angle/flash might have been playing tricks in that picture...

Sorry for the delay in updating this, but Christmas came along and everything was placed on the back burner. I've had a chance to do some more investigating and here is what I've found:

I did a full oil change (drained engine/reservoir, tightened up all bits, and new oil) and upon turning the key the oil pressure gauge read max pressure (70psi) and no warning lights. I started the engine and still had the raspy noise, but this time I had a decreasing oil pressure needle. Pressure went to critical and just as I was turning off the engine, the red warning light flickered on. I "drained" the engine again, but nothing came out when I removed the plug. Investigation of the oil filter showed the same. So, I'm fairly sure I've figured out where the issue is, and that my oil/water pump has either 1) completely failed or 2) the spline has stripped and it isn't turning properly... either way the engine is not getting oil.

Correct me if I am wrong, but this should explain why I had oil pressure when the noises started and also the coolant overflow, right? The pump stopped circulating oil, which remained pressurized in the engine, and as a result it developed one or more "hot spots" which caused the overflow???

 

Originally Posted by jkrv2.0Here are innermost surface and outermost surface of the filter.
Oil filter was changed at 69,395 and car had 71,511 at time of breakdown.

Hi jkrv2.0,

Could you possibly send me more information on your vehicle (model, year, VIN#, etc) so that I can look into this for you? You can send it in a private message if you'd like.

Thanks so much,
Erica (MaseratiCares)

 

I am looking at how to replace the pump now. I've got my hands on the 4200 Coupe and QP Workshop manuals, but I'd like to avoid pulling the engine until I find out whether or not there is any other damage internally. Can anyone recommend a way of removing/installing the oil/water pump without a lot of extra disassembly? I read on a QP page where someone was able to shimmy it out and back in, but I'm sure a GranSport is a bit more cramped in the engine bay...

Thanks in advance!

 

Or there's something wrong with one of the scavenge pumps.

 

I don't understand how no oil came out after removing the drain plugs a second time. Dave where are the scavenge pumps located

 

Oil came out from the reservoir tank drain plug, but not from the engine block drain plug, nor was there sign of oil entering/exiting the filter.

 

Heres a break down. One of the guys who had a pump problem before was YankeeCoupe. He hasn't been around scince 2013. I noticed 5 and 6 are a filter within the pump. But one question I have is does the oil pump send oil thru the complete system or is there another pump that helps pump oil to the oil filter.