Here are the basic facts for proper universally accepted "winterization" for a marine engine. Accepted and sworn by all Mariners in the Maritime.
Any one worth their "salt" knows almost all materials oxidize. Aluminum Oxide makes for a cheap abrasive in dry abrasive "sand" paper.
Thousands of boats are put to bed for the winter. All fluids are changed. # 1 you forgot is to change the old oil. Motor oil is cheap as water. All Filters and separators are changed. Oil and fluids, and air filter. Inside cabin filter too.
Rat traps and mice control: otherwise the rodents can eat and chew wires and the car engine compartment will be a Rats nest.
Air and condensation, heating and cooling every day and night, thus warm vapors that condense...Thus fill the tanks and reservoirs. Water absorbents and emulsifiers are essential. Fuel tank 95 % full of high test fuel and add stabalizer and run motor with stabilizers and water emulsifier. PB Blaster!! Fogg the outside of the motor and belts and hoses.
Why? Because the car hates sitting and not being run. "Rust never sleeps."
Everything you said doing is minor in the grand scheme of a few months of not moving.
Most collectors float the battery with a trickle charger. In a Masi with thirty on board black boxes you need a maintenance smart charger. Start the car weekly.
Flush the coolant and fill with new Pentosin :
Pentosin - Antifreeze
Or you can believe the Differential and Transmission are sealed for life. Fluids in Transmission cannot be changed . Yeah Right. Silly Rabbit!
How to Winterize Different Boat Engines:
https://www.westmarine.com/boat-winterization
Remember, if you are “on the fence” regarding the need to winterize your boat, changing the oil, fogging the engine or filling the engine block with antifreeze is cheap insurance against allowing corrosion to run wild or an expensive repair in the event that you get “stung” by a cold snap. For help with winterizing a gasoline inboard or sterndrive, see Winterizing Your Gas Inboard or Sterndrive. Diesel engine and genset owners see Winterizing Your Marine Diesel or Genset. Outboard motor owners see Winterizing Your Outboard Motor. Here are some winterization tasks common to all types of engines.
Fog the engine. Fogging oil prevents corrosion of inboard or outboard engines that are stored for an extended period of time. See our selection of fogging oil.
Change the oil. We offer a complete selection of synthetic and mineral-based engine oil. Old oil in the crankcase of a stored boat can form acids, which can corrode engine components and shorten engine life.
Fill the engine block with antifreeze. This will prevent residual water from freezing and cracking the block. Non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze is best. Choose a strength that is adequate for your area. For helpful advice, see Choosing Antifreeze.
Top off the fuel tank and stabilize the fuel. Fuel stabilizers help to prevent phase separation and the formation of gum and varnish in gasoline. Diesel fuel stabilizers help to prevent the growth of injector-clogging bacteria. Topping off the tank eliminates condensation that would otherwise settle as water at the bottom of the tank.
Ask me how many marine aluminum fuel tanks I have seen pitted out from the inside from water contamination. That is why marine fuel tanks are cheap plastic , bladders, or are premium made with 316 Stainless Steel.
God forbid the car sits for an accidental longer time. A true barn find and you did not fill the fuel tank. Got to love the smell of Varnished fuel.
Not me
