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New Brakes Are Too Expensive

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brake cost
22K views 88 replies 23 participants last post by  oldQPbuyer  
#1 ·
Can anyone provide an estimate for pads and rotors on a 2020 Gibli front and rear? ALso could use the cost for a one-year service as well (the second year owning the car)The estimate I just got is the gross national product of a small country. Thanks
 
#3 ·
Wow, a Ghibli is cheap to fix.
Just looked up the parts for a 4200 on Scuderia Parts and:
2 rotors Front $789.26 + 110.56 shipping
2 rotors Rear $438.92 + 53.96 shipping
4 pads Front $228.39 + 25.97 shipping
4 pads Rear $542.52 + 23.93 shipping
4 shoes Rear $486.40 + 82.89 shipping
So, without fluid or labor, a brake job on my Spyder GT is $2782.80 for parts only.
 
#5 ·
When I had my SQ4 for 3 years from the lot, I changed rotors and pads twice for both front and rear. Tires are like candies. I think I went through 3 sets for front and 2 sets for rear in 3 years and 25,000 miles. I did not track the car or anything...
 
#8 ·
This shouldn't be and isn't a question of resurfacing rotors (another discussion entirely) but of service writers shaking whatever additional cash they can from the uninformed by automatically recommending rotor replacement with pad replacement. I'm not against dealers or dealer service, just wary of some routine practices. As OP inquired, replacing pads and rotors can be expensive especially if labor also performed by dealer service, so why not pay for and replace only what is necessary? If the rotors are still in spec (not worn past the required thickness, warped, grooved or otherwise compromised), then properly bed in a fresh set of pads and enjoy.
 
#11 ·
I had a 2014 Ghibli SQ4 it needed new rotors at around 25k and at 35K I sold the car 3 set's of brakes and one full set of rotors replaced. If you want them to last longer and make less dust you have to change the type of pads. They will not have the same stopping power but they are easy to live with if you don't track the car. Aftermarket companies make plenty of options now.
 
#12 ·
I just paid $2300something for pads/rotors both front/rear at the dealer, thought that was reasonable. Started hearing squeaks and faint grinding at 18k miles. 80% hard city driving for me, lots of zooming to stop signs to hear the exhaust and then hard braking. Maybe could have saved a few hundo with an indy but I needed a loaner and they got the job done same day.
 
#16 ·
Forget the cost of brake repair for a moment. Brakes stop the car through surface contact, yes? I have yet to see a completely flat surface on a used Maserati rotor. Picture an old record ( I.E record player), it's grooved. That's what old rotors look like, grooved. So you slap perfectly flat pads on those old rotors and maybe there might be 50% contact. Most probably won't notice with regular driving but it could be a problem. Also, often it produces squealing because the rotors have a polished glaze and the new pads have high metallic content.
 
#25 ·
Brake fluid absorbs moisture, higher the quality of the fluid generally the quicker it absorbs moisture. It reduces the boiling point which can cause brakes fade and pedal loss. It also causes corrosion in the system. This is what damages master cylinders, calipers and ABS units. When you replace brakes you should be opening the bleeder screws when the calipers are depressed so the old fluid and any dirt of sediment goes out of the system and not back upstream into ABS units. If you not flushing fluid on a street car every two years you will have brake issues prematurely. Old fluid and corrosion is the leading cause of caliper failure and uneven pad wear. We test brake moisture content at every service and it should be flushed when it reaches 2% or every 2 years. People in humid areas may need it annually where someone in say Arizona may make it 4-5 years. The track cars get it flushed 4-5 times a year. If we are doing brakes on a car they are flushed every time. If you want a cheap halve assed job done it wouldn't be in our shop. Everyone is throwing these cheap Chinese rotors and pads on their cars, we have a stack of nearly new ones in our scrap pile we have taken off after another shop installed them locally because they are the cheapest in town. Compare what you are buying. Factory two piece rotors with alluminium hats and steel rings. Chinese one piece cast iron rotors that have issues with the spokes failing and causing vibrations or worst case a complete rotor failure.
 
#29 ·
Give us a call or shoot us an email for a quote on Original Maserati Rotors and FD Pads for the Ghibli, we hesitate to post the price because they do go up and down with the exchange rate and inflation but we are very competitive on cost for OE Brembo Rotors and Quiet Low Dust Brake Pads. We will certainly beat your factory dealer and most will not pay sales tax on the order since we ship them to you from out of state.

Ultimately, there are cheaper options currently in the market but the quality is not the same and this may come back to bite you. As RPM mentioned, the original Maserati / Brembo are lighter weight with Aluminum centers and the build quality is top shelf. They simply are a better rotor so you do get what you pay for.

Best Regards
 
#31 ·
We pressure bleed the system from the reservoir cap and it works the best in our experience to get out all the air in the system. We've tried to pull it out with vacuum from the calipers and used a few different flush machines but honestly a tool like a MOTIV power bleeder is the best way for a home mechanic to bleed brakes.

FWIW, we would never suggest to pull fluid out of the reservoir, if you introduce air into the master cylinder, you'll have to bench bleed the master to get it out. To each their own of course but that's a big risk to take in our opinion ;)

Best Regards,
 
#33 ·
With all due respect to everyone here I do brakes flushes an entirely different way and I'm sure I'll get some boo birds and cute comments...Don't care...You can't argue with success...Pressure bleeder no way....Had a 360 serviced by Ferrari of Atlanta....After their brake flush you could drive the 3 minutes before brakes locked down...Apparently, something with bleeder messed up something in the ABS modulator...We had to replace MC and modulator... We gravity bleed cars...It works perfectly...There is no air in a street car system generally ...I have 0 issues doing it this way...We use a filler bottle and then open the screws...Then wash off the cailpers with water...Every 2 years as recommended...Jason
 
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#38 ·
I agree..Where is all this professional big time auto repair taking place...I can't google RPM services and get anything??? I maybe wrong here, but doesn't ad up? Just saying. Maybe a basement? Surely you would have a website???
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#41 ·
I agree..Where is all this professional big time auto repair taking place...I can't google RPM services and get anything??? I maybe wrong here, but doesn't ad up? Just saying. Maybe a basement? Surely you would have a website???
View attachment 154408

Try 7 lakes Auto repair, or you can google Mark Glenwood and Ferrari of Seattle if you need more of my background. I don't have a website, I have never had the need for one most of my 2024 schedule is booked with larger projects already.
 
#46 ·
For argument sake, in my almost 8 years working on the Maseratis I had the honor to perform 3 ABS bleeds on a GT. Everyone of them was a two man job. On every sequence of caliper bleed the reservoir would need refilling. One person sitting in the vehicle performing the bleed procedure while applying brake pressure when commanded. The other continuing to fill the empty reservoir. After all that pray that you didn’t put to much pressure on the brake pedal causing the brake lamp switch to get misadjusted and that the brake pedal is still firm with good stopping ability.

ABS bleeding any Maserati was not something to take lightly. All that said I was using Maserati’s scan tool and following the scan tool instructions during the procedure.

30 minutes, would have to see it to believe.
 
#50 ·
I had to google pillock....It's really just a con artist here.. Just convince people that everyone else is a hack and then overcharge them...You don't need rotors at every brake service...That is just BS..You don't need a brake fluid flush at every brake service either...BTW I just changed my title to technical director of my shop....Just a bunch of smoke and a dude with a superior attitude for no reason.
 
#56 · (Edited)
Well, this took a turn... Certainly many of us will disagree on technical points. For instance, we never do gravity bleeds, never had a problem with a master cylinder or ABS (we use 10psi) and it gets out more air with a firmer pedal in our experience. However, I know that whichever way Jason is doing it, it's working for him, he has a good reputation and the forum is about sharing our experiences even if we don't agree.

We also suggest replacing rotors every 2nd set of pads and Brake Fluid Flushes Every 2 years. So we're different than RPM also there but we find that it works very well.

With that said, we didn't know that RPM Services was Mark at 7 Lakes but that is absolutely a legitimate shop and his experience and reputation are very well known, to doubt that would be a mistake, regardless of whether you agree with him.

Best Regards,
 
#58 ·
I understand your point and didn't mean to direct that at you specifically. Just to let everyone know that regardless of how they feel about his responses that at least we can say he's not just a random guy out there, he's been around the block same as we have but just coming from a different perspective that's all.