[Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta]

And, correct me if I'm wrong here, but the possibility exists that the magnet can be oriented wrongly as some folks have found out. Doesn't look like any of the "windows" in the bell housing allow adequate access once all is back in place, to rectify that error 😐....

No, if you get the magnet wrong you are SOL..Best not to even mess with it IMO..J

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

@mike164s , couple more questions, if I could trouble you:

i) if you are keeping the flywheel (and you might be machining it) - is there any reference marking that gets done with that flywheel and the clutch cover/intermediate drive plate)/clutch disks assembly? What I mean, here, is maybe Valeo sends out the clutch assembly with the heaviest spot paint-marked, and you, once the flywheel is machined (and balanced?) try to set its heaviest point as much opposite the clutch assembly's heavy spot?

ii) when all is assembled (that is to say, bell housing to engine; torque tube/driveshaft to bell housing, and lastly transaxle to torque tube... do you clean around- and remove the actuator, leaving hoses and electrical attached? In doing this, do you allow the engine mounts to flex downwards, seeing as the actuator needs space to be reinstalled after the bleed sequence, and so the transaxle cannot be pushed fully-home (upwards) and bolted into place yet? Did you face challenges with any of the wiring harness being pulled too taut in doing the bleed sequence in this way?; and

iii) how much grief did you experience getting the transaxle to part-ways from the torque tube and torque tube to part-ways from the bellhousing? How 'bout the reverse, upon reassembly?

TIA!

 

[Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta]

@mike164s , couple more questions, if I could trouble you:

i) if you are keeping the flywheel (and you might be machining it) - is there any reference marking that gets done with that flywheel and the clutch cover/intermediate drive plate)/clutch disks assembly? What I mean, here, is maybe Valeo sends out the clutch assembly with the heaviest spot paint-marked, and you, once the flywheel is machined (and balanced?) try to set its heaviest point as much opposite the clutch assembly's heavy spot?

ii) when all is assembled (that is to say, bell housing to engine; torque tube/driveshaft to bell housing, and lastly transaxle to torque tube... do you clean around- and remove the actuator, leaving hoses and electrical attached? In doing this, do you allow the engine mounts to flex downwards, seeing as the actuator needs space to be reinstalled after the bleed sequence, and so the transaxle cannot be pushed fully-home (upwards) and bolted into place yet? Did you face challenges with any of the wiring harness being pulled too taut in doing the bleed sequence in this way?; and

iii) how much grief did you experience getting the transaxle to part-ways from the torque tube and torque tube to part-ways from the bellhousing? How 'bout the reverse, upon reassembly?

TIA!

Man, you are turning this into brain surgery at this point..The clutch is balanced and so is the flywheel, but not together as you would need the full rotating assembly from the engine and that isn't feasible.

 

[damichi]

Is the clutch he got pre-balanced? I thought those had holes drilled in the front for balancing and not the cutouts where the weights would go?

 

[mike164s]

@mike164s , couple more questions, if I could trouble you:

i) if you are keeping the flywheel (and you might be machining it) - is there any reference marking that gets done with that flywheel and the clutch cover/intermediate drive plate)/clutch disks assembly? What I mean, here, is maybe Valeo sends out the clutch assembly with the heaviest spot paint-marked, and you, once the flywheel is machined (and balanced?) try to set its heaviest point as much opposite the clutch assembly's heavy spot?

ii) when all is assembled (that is to say, bell housing to engine; torque tube/driveshaft to bell housing, and lastly transaxle to torque tube... do you clean around- and remove the actuator, leaving hoses and electrical attached? In doing this, do you allow the engine mounts to flex downwards, seeing as the actuator needs space to be reinstalled after the bleed sequence, and so the transaxle cannot be pushed fully-home (upwards) and bolted into place yet? Did you face challenges with any of the wiring harness being pulled too taut in doing the bleed sequence in this way?; and

iii) how much grief did you experience getting the transaxle to part-ways from the torque tube and torque tube to part-ways from the bellhousing? How 'bout the reverse, upon reassembly?

TIA!

I kept the original flywheel and had it resurfaced. I installed the new clutch with the factory marking in the same orientation as the old clutch.

The only reason I removed the actuator is because I replaced the f1 hoses and wanted to be sure there was absolutely no air in the system. There are 3 bleed screws on the backside of the actuator. If I was just doing a clutch job without the hose replacement, I would not remove the actuator and would bleed the f1 system at the bellhousing upon completing the clutch job. There is a bleed valve at that location, and another at the quick connect fitting next to the trans.

the torque tube separated from the trans and the bellhousing without any issues!

 

[Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta]

Is the clutch he got pre-balanced? I thought those had holes drilled in the front for balancing and not the cutouts where the weights would go?

The clutch and the flywheel are balanced individually via drill dimples...The Maserati shop manual has a procedure to balance the assembly in the car...It is not needed and I'm pretty sure 99% of techs. are not messing with it..Jason

 

[damichi]

So you mean the right one of these clutches is also pre-balanced via drill dimples?
It took quite some weight for my clutch to be in balance. I have the type from the right side.
Can't tell if i would notice a difference though.

Cheers,
Michael

 

[Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta]

We normally just install them with no issues..If you wanted to get cute...You could take the the flywheel and the clutch to a machine shop and they could bolt it together and balance the assembly..Jason

 

[damichi]

It's good to hear that it does not really matter that much.

Balancing the flywheel and the clutch out of the car was what I was trying to do.
However you need to drill out some rivets that connect the two friciton plates together to get the middle metal plate (the one that looks like a vented brake disk) back into the clutch assembly but without the friction plates.
Balancing with the friciton plates still in the clutch pack is no good because you would balace it too but for the position it is at that moment. Every push of the clutch it will be a different orientation so the balancing is off most of the time anyway. Balancing without the mid-plate is also not good.

Is there any reason not to use the pre balanced clutch?

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

Good point... I think, use it as-is is the answer...

 

[Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta]

It's good to hear that it does not really matter that much.

Balancing the flywheel and the clutch out of the car was what I was trying to do.
However you need to drill out some rivets that connect the two friciton plates together to get the middle metal plate (the one that looks like a vented brake disk) back into the clutch assembly but without the friction plates.
Balancing with the friciton plates still in the clutch pack is no good because you would balace it too but for the position it is at that moment. Every push of the clutch it will be a different orientation so the balancing is off most of the time anyway. Balancing without the mid-plate is also not good.

Is there any reason not to use the pre balanced clutch?

Exactly unless you take it all apart you are not doing all that much...Do you really want to take apart a brand new clutch? I don't...Jason

 

[MarcoAntonio]

Also, here is the Hill Engineering rear main seal installation tool in use:

View attachment 147715


View attachment 147716

I’m just reading this now. VERY impressive!
I had my clutch done at 50000 miles by the dealer when I first bought the car (knowing that I needed to replace the clutch before I bought it).
When I was considering buying the car and looked into replacing the clutch myself, it seemed too daunting with all of the specialized tools needed to recalibrate everything.
I’m not going to say that you made it look easy, but if I ever need to do it again on another car, I’d certainly consider doing it myself.
I do have a few questions that I hope are not considered stupid. (I haven’t owned the car long enough to become familiar with everything)
1) Can you please explain what your first picture is? They appear to be supports and brackets. Are they the stock parts or upgraded replacements?
2) You mentioned ASM a few times. I presume that this a parts supplier? Where can I find them?
Many thanks and congratulations on what appears to be a job well done!

 

[mike164s]

I’m just reading this now. VERY impressive!
I had my clutch done at 50000 miles by the dealer when I first bought the car (knowing that I needed to replace the clutch before I bought it).
When I was considering buying the car and looked into replacing the clutch myself, it seemed too daunting with all of the specialized tools needed to recalibrate everything.
I’m not going to say that you made it look easy, but if I ever need to do it again on another car, I’d certainly consider doing it myself.
I do have a few questions that I hope are not considered stupid. (I haven’t owned the car long enough to become familiar with everything)
1) Can you please explain what your first picture is? They appear to be supports and brackets. Are they the stock parts or upgraded replacements?
2) You mentioned ASM a few times. I presume that this a parts supplier? Where can I find them?
Many thanks and congratulations on what appears to be a job well done!

Thank you!

the first picture is of the front subframe crossmember, front exhaust bracket, and rear trans mount to subframe. They were ratty looking when removed, so I had them blasted and powdercoated.

AS Motorsport is in the Netherlands. They have quite a bit of parts available for the 4200, most are not listed on their site. I liked the secondary decat pipes they offered, along with their F1 hose kit, so I made an order with them. Here is the link: Maserati

 

[MarcoAntonio]

Thank you!

the first picture is of the front subframe crossmember, front exhaust bracket, and rear trans mount to subframe. They were ratty looking when removed, so I had them blasted and powdercoated.

AS Motorsport is in the Netherlands. They have quite a bit of parts available for the 4200, most are not listed on their site. I liked the secondary decat pipes they offered, along with their F1 hose kit, so I made an order with them. Here is the link: Maserati

THANKS!