Guys, I wanted to ask because it takes a bit of work and I am already posting in the information on the UK forum. Would you guys like me to post a detailed account of an F1 clutch removal and replacement? I will cover the thrust bearing and F1 sensor magnet as well. I just don't want to do it if people are not interested. I know most take their cars in.
Detailed F1 clutch removal and replacement (4200)
Craig
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I cant find where you posted his readout. How much did they tell you was left on your clutch?
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Yes this what Steve stated at the Aston Martin dealer he thought someone must of messed with the clutch parameters before I received it. I received an email from him this morning. But even if you flipped the numbers and said It had only 35% left if still wouldn't add up because one side was almost flush with the rivets. Either case I guess we know what it will look like when it's done.
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Well,,i think we just proved the sd3 readout is NO way to give any idea how much clutch life is left....Craig, did u get ur new clutch yet. When you do can you take a same pic showing the measurement thickness
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No I haven't received it yet Larry. Actually I haven't ordered it yet. I still need to, but what I can tell so far Eurospares.com is cheaper than anyone over here in the U.S. even with shipping. I have ordered the F1 sensor from them, and I plan to order the clutch pack if I can find no one else to lower the price or at least match them.
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So for whatever reason when I use my credit card over there for EuroSpares everyone thinks my credit card was stolen. They did it with the F1 sensor and they did it again with the flywheel. It's a bit frustrating but I'm kind of glad they did because I decided to take my fly wheel off and take a closer look. I'm pretty certain that with the material they have on this fly wheel and it's thickness I didn't burn it up or put stress cracks in it. I decided to take it to a local machine shop to second what I was thinking.......so I just dropped it off. They stated it was good to go. They are going to machine it and hot tank it.....It only cost me $50 which of course I was happy about....Here's a side photo of the FlyWheel...
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Craig, make sure they machine the outer area where the PP bolts up the same amount as the surface or you`ll have problems...I pray every time I take something to a machine shop...If you haven`t done time in jail, I`m not sure they`ll hire you. Jason
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ohhh Jason, I didn't even think of that.........The guy I use over here where I'm at is an old time machine shop guy. Older gentleman a bit abrasive at times but trophies line his wall from racing. That being stated, I did not tell him that, I dropped it off without a second thought. Thank you I hope I can catch him tomorrow and ask him to do it before he finishes. I won't even call I think I will just drop in.......
Hey Jason hopefully while your still on the forum, I'm going to get the clutch pack/fly wheel balanced together off the car. I was actually going to write about this below but I was thinking about lightening the fly wheel on the girl when I do it. What do you think? I realize the pros and cons of it. I'm not talking about a ton of weight but man when I took that thing off the car I was surprised at how heavy it was. I really think it would help it's doggy acceleration a bit......I know it will also drop quicker but..............thoughts?
Actually Dave, I should ask you as well. Sorry about that I know what you do for a living. Well, I shouldn't aim the question at any particular person I guess. If anyone has a background and understands what I'm talking about please feel free to chime in. I'm not an Exclusionist, I don't want to change the thread either but it might me an option. I hear of a lot of different things on the forum about making mods to make better performance. Haven't heard of anyone lightening the 50 lb flywheel yet. It's like a 55 gallon drum taking that thing out of there!
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If you don`t take it off both parts you reduce the clamping force on the clutch. They are gonna take at least .010-.015 off the surface...a mm is .039..see what I`m saying. The old crabby guy probably already knows this actually...J
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Lighted flywheel...That is a no...That works on a race car because the revs are up and you don`t need the mass...On a street car it works against you coming off a stop light...That mass is what gets the car going...I imagine it would get the F1 box all messed up as far how quickly it releases...J
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Well I will make sure the old guy knows because I definitely don't want any less clamping force. Seems like I'm burning them up all on my own! Don't need any extra help.
Yes I hear what your saying, but I'm not talking about lightening it so much it couldn't keep any of the RPMs that definitely wouldn't go over well......I realize that mass keeps the car from just dropping to nothing. But it also has to be spun up before that happens. It would be faster off the corners, and slightly off the line, correct? Additionally, when you dive into the corners by immediately releasing the pedal the car would shave the rpms faster, correct?. Less mass to accelerate, but less mass to keep it accelerated when you let off.
With all this aside that's what I guess was on my mind would it really mess with the F1 system? The only sensor I see in the bell housing is the F1 sensor. Really it should be call the throw-out or thrust sensor right? That's what it's doing is telling the TCU where the thrust bearing is positioned at. It doesn't have any optics at all to see the clutch itself or the pressure plate which is why when the clutch spring retaining tangs break it doesn't set any "CC" lights or the PP fingers for that matter.
Yes I hear what your saying, but I'm not talking about lightening it so much it couldn't keep any of the RPMs that definitely wouldn't go over well......I realize that mass keeps the car from just dropping to nothing. But it also has to be spun up before that happens. It would be faster off the corners, and slightly off the line, correct? Additionally, when you dive into the corners by immediately releasing the pedal the car would shave the rpms faster, correct?. Less mass to accelerate, but less mass to keep it accelerated when you let off.
With all this aside that's what I guess was on my mind would it really mess with the F1 system? The only sensor I see in the bell housing is the F1 sensor. Really it should be call the throw-out or thrust sensor right? That's what it's doing is telling the TCU where the thrust bearing is positioned at. It doesn't have any optics at all to see the clutch itself or the pressure plate which is why when the clutch spring retaining tangs break it doesn't set any "CC" lights or the PP fingers for that matter.
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Craig, at this point I wouldn`t want to do anything to increase my chance of problems..I`m sure you spent enough money at this point. I`m not so sure how the car would behave with a lightened flywheel....I just put them back stock and the customers leave happy.J
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Low mass flywheels are great as long as you keep your RPMs high. Like a race car. It sucks when you shift to neutral and the throttle is cut and the engine stalls before the ECU can catch it or when your sitting at a light and the A/C compressor kicks on and the car dies.
But now your smarter and you coast down to low revs before going to neutral and have the A/C off so you'll have that extra power when the light turns green. You stamp on the gas, and crap, it just died because when the throttle opened and let all that air and fuel in, there wasn't enough energy stored in the flywheel to compress it for firing.
The flywheel in this car is heavy because it is small diameter. The car still has to idle fairly high just to keep enough energy in it. And the clutch engagement is programmed where it is so the flywheel has enough energy for compression. That's why on something like a LandCruiser, you can let off the clutch fairly rapidly without even giving it fuel. The flywheel is providing a lot of energy for compression as well as moving the car.
So, if you plan to only race and you set the car up for the launch correctly, go for it. Otherwise, I would look somewhere else for power. Just my two cents.
But now your smarter and you coast down to low revs before going to neutral and have the A/C off so you'll have that extra power when the light turns green. You stamp on the gas, and crap, it just died because when the throttle opened and let all that air and fuel in, there wasn't enough energy stored in the flywheel to compress it for firing.
The flywheel in this car is heavy because it is small diameter. The car still has to idle fairly high just to keep enough energy in it. And the clutch engagement is programmed where it is so the flywheel has enough energy for compression. That's why on something like a LandCruiser, you can let off the clutch fairly rapidly without even giving it fuel. The flywheel is providing a lot of energy for compression as well as moving the car.
So, if you plan to only race and you set the car up for the launch correctly, go for it. Otherwise, I would look somewhere else for power. Just my two cents.
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Dave I definitely get what your saying. Jason already killed the idea with reason. I'm not talking about going all aluminum here to cut the mass for racing.......I don't know that by shaving it a couple kgs it would do all that.....but maybe, and I definitely don't want anymore problems with this thing......... or God forbid the radio stops working!!LOL!
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Right. I shouldn't have used reason.
Craig, the cool kids aren't shaving their flywheels, so don't do it!
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Well Dave, actually some of them are but I will forego the festivities in posting all the Honda, Mitsubishi, and Audi links just for you!:2thumbsup::autofahrer:
On another note I have the brand new clutch in the mail on it's way to me......it will be great to get the girl back together again.
On another note I have the brand new clutch in the mail on it's way to me......it will be great to get the girl back together again.
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