I will be following this post as I am interested in replacing mine before it bursts. I'd love to find a one-piece stainless wrapped hose with the connectors machine pressed on each end.


If I have my correct Engine number - it is not any part of my VIN. Wondering now, based on your post, if I may not have my correct Engine number.

 

I know it's hard to figure your engine number but your local dealer can get it off your Vin number.

 

I also can't help but want to follow this post for this information!

 

Here is where you find your engine number. The front of the car is at the bottom of the pic. The car is on a lift. The indicated engine number in the pic is mine.

I can't tell from the Scuderia parts diagram what the new "solid line piece" is. Please advise.

KTBD

 

There are two Old solution boxes on the diagram....top box part 32 is the hose that burst. in the other bottom box part 40 seems to be one solid piece vs several pieces surrounding part 32 like clamps and hard pipe ends.

 

Thanks, Kiss. Is your Engine number part of your VIN? Mine is not. Regards.

 

Engine number and VIN are different. Part of my VIN says (M)139, but not which individual engine. Maybe it's different for GranTurismos, but I doubt it.

KTBD

 

Thanks. It looks like part 40 replaces lots of pieces from the other diagram. It would seem that to use part 40, one would have to be accessing the distal end of the pipe that is shown as part 32 in the other box. On my QP5, it looks like I could get to that part only by completely dropping the engine subframe. Not a happy thought for me.

I wonder why only those engines in the indicated range.

KTBD

 

Ok.... I think I understand this and anyone can correct me if I'm wrong. The first rear view example engine pic shows the "old" way it was done and the second one shows the newest way it is done/repaired? The (2) boxed images within the third diagram pic attached are the 2 different old ways/parts used and where I circled in red is the newest way/parts. In summary they just cap off the one side of the engine and on the other side they run just the hose by itself. The question I have... is this newest way done on both the ZF/F1 cars within the production range that have this old setup(s)/problem and my second question.... is there any other part changes and/or computer programing done with this "newest" revised way? Hope my pics help and again anyone more knowledgeable on this, please tell me if I'm wrong in any way.

 

Also....here is the new pipe/hose used on the one side (Part #36 in the attached diagram pic)


MASERATI WATER PIPE HOSE FROM CYLINDER HEAD Maserati Part#: 241253

 

"If" this is indeed the revised way it is done/repaired I posted above(no longer having the pipe with hose sleeve running to both sides of the engine)... Can anyone with expertise explain more in detail how the system operates this newest revised way vs the older way(s) - besides eliminating having the small hose/sleeve that fails, exposed sitting in the hot environment behind the engine/on top of the transmission?

 

Helpful Pix!



The pix help me see several bottom lines: (1) The parts do not interchange. They are specific to each type of engine internal plumbing, which is not the same. (2) Changing out any of the parts that are behind the engine requires dropping the engine.

My facelift QP5's engine coolant plumbing routing is slightly different than either of the pictured configurations. The small rubber hose can be accessed from the top of the engine, up against the firewall. My pic illustrates. R&R of the hose will be a big pain because of extremely confined room to work, but it is doable.

KTBD

 

Yikes very confusing now that you discovered a 3rd pipe. Attempting to attach a picture of which 3" hose that seems to rupture and another hose if the intake is off to check that is located under the intake manifold.

 

In your second pic above that's a small hose sleeve connecting the pipe to the heat exchanger that sits behind the alternator(see attached pic)...is that yours that ruptured? I haven't heard too much about issues with this one versus the one in your first pic that causes problems, but at least there's good access to it once the intake is off. Definitely one should consider replacing, along with any others they have access too while in there, that could potentially cause problems.

I started the thread below and just recently repaired the small hose sleeve behind the engine/on top of the transmission due to it failing. I also proactively replaced the other rubber hose that runs back there:

https://www.maseratilife.com/forums/qp5-2003-2012/118299-pesty-coolant-hose-sleeve.html

 

On A friends car the hose ruptured under the intake and indeed it looks like the pic. Some say removing the fuel rail gives better access to the rear hose by trans depending on how small your hands are I guess.

 

This may take a pro response: Does anyone know WHY Farrari would have designed that hose to be there? Why not a solid metal line throughout?
KTBD

 

Because cars are not built MIL. spec...Car manufactures are a business and they control their cost..The little hose did exactly what it was meant to do..Be cheap and get the car out of warranty.. On the solid pipe..You have manufacturing differences in every engine..the flexible hose allows take that in account....Jason

 

Thank you. Two final questions.

1) When you got the Overheat warning light, did you glance over at the temp gauge, and what did it register then?

2) I can't recall whether I have already asked this or just thought about it. When you started doing the fix, were you able to remove the air intake plenum without removing the fuel rails and unplugging the injectors?

KTBD

 

1) When I first saw the Overheat Light I remember looking at the temp and it was at the next hash mark from where the temp is normally at when running

2) I didn't have to remove the fuel rails but did have to take the black support rails off on each side of the intake(they have the clips that support the hoses/lines that run along the top/sides of the intake. This gets you a nice straight line to the intake bolts. You will have to unplug the fuel injector sensors.
I disconnected one side of the head vent pipe that runs over the top of the intake to give me a little more clearance when lifting the intake so I didn't damage the intake gaskets when moving it.

 

At 40K miles : Mine puked coolant all over the ZF transmission and the exhaust. A few months later, The plastic coolant expansion tank split and puked coolant. So all these common problems with a 4.2L 2009 Maserati GranTurismo. San Diego Ferrari and Maserati changed out the left and right bank crossover hose. The repair proceeded the intake camshaft and bridge check valve mods., and followed by front A arm bushings replacement.

Car is a pure showpiece now and always will be. Not a Daily Driver. Car was a Las Vegas Slammed and Lowered. Now corner weight balanced and raised so reduced wheel camber is maxed to Zero. Michelin Pilot Cups can now last more than 5K miles.

So 8 hours, another 8 hours, and another 8 hours of shop time.

Here are crossover hose photos showing dimensions and inside diameter Nominal 5/8 inch) single layer single nylon inner woven heater hose. Ruptured holed hose was able to be nursed to SDFM with expansion tank cap loose and cabin heater on high heat with distilled water added for the 40 mile delivery.

Terrible way to drive a $45,000 motor but I was lucky no overheating en route.

 

Curious????




I was thinking.... I've heard usually when a coolant hose ruptures like this in a "burst manner" it's an "over-pressurization" issue in the system, usually caused by a bad radiator cap(not regulating pressure correctly). After you repaired the hose you mentioned the coolant expansion tank split a few months later. I'm starting to wonder if a failing cap on the coolant expansion tank is a leading culprit to this widely common hose failure? The hose stays stressed already sitting in that very hot environment behind the engine/on top of the transmission and if the coolant tank cap no longer regulates pressure correctly in the system, it pushes the hose to the "brink of death". Just theorizing and throwing this out there.

I just repaired this hose myself on my 07 QP Auto a couple weeks ago and I've been hyper-vigilant keeping an eye on EVERYTHING when I take the car out just to make sure all is good after doing that LABORIOUS repair. I've never paid close attention to the coolant tank before(besides checking fluid levels periodically) but noticed when I came back from driving the car the other day, I left the car running and popped the hood to check things out. I saw the coolant cycling through the coolant tank but noticed the actual coolant level was WAY BELOW the "minimum line" while cycling. Once I turned the car off it slowly filled back up to the "maximum line".(Note: I did a full drain/flush, put approx 2 1/2 gallons in and bleed system when repair done) This may be normal for the coolant to be pulled that far down in the coolant, but I definitely don't want to assume it is....Can someone provide insight on this???? This is what got me thinking about a failing coolant tank cap/pressurization issue and after I saw above that your coolant tank reservoir split a few months after you replaced this same hose, it really had me thinking.

 

I do have a true love affair with her and she is a keeper. I admit that I too am Car Crazy

 

My coolant tank cracked its bottom out at 39K miles. 9 years old. Plastics in the desert do not last all that long. The crossover hose in the back of the engine looked OK when the alternator had to be replaced about the same time. If I had it to do over, I would have swapped out that hose, an adjacent one, and the coolant hose to the oil cooler sitting in the valley between the engine banks.

Regarding your receding coolant question, if the level went back to MAX when it cooled off, you wouldn't want to add more water to the reservoir. If you did so, the tank would overflow as the coolant returned. Remember, liquids are non-compressible.

KTBD

 

No more coolant was added...was just curious about how it was fluctuating in the reservoir tank. It's been running like a champ... happy to be back on the road enjoying my me time.

 

Once the over-temp light came on, did you know right away what to suspect?
How many times did you have to refill the expansion tank on the way to the shop?
How many liters of distilled water did you use on that trip?
KTBD

 

Distilled water? In 29 years of working on cars I have never done that..If the local tap water is good enough for local consumption. I'm pretty sure a radiator will be ok..Geez!....Jason

 

To clarify when I said no "No more coolant was added" .....that meant nothing else was added....No tap water, distilled water, bottled water, flavored water, tonic water, etc). Jason, I think "kissthebricksdad" 's reply to my post got you off on a tangent... I didn't say anything about adding any water/distilled water. Why would I add anything else if it returned back to the "max line" in the reservoir tank??? I was just asking about the the behavior of the coolant level and the way it was fluctuating in the reservoir tank while the car was running.

 

Also FYI Jason... just by the way you responded above explains to me now why you didn't respond when I asked you the second question through private message when I was getting ready to do the hose repair on my car a couple weeks ago. Remember EVERYBODY on here does not work on these cars for a living. I looked up to you and messaged you bc I saw you as a very smart, talented and educated person that works on and knows these cars. All I have to say is...STAY HUMBLE

 

I like to bust balls sometimes >..Don't take it seriously..If I didn't answer a question then I'm sorry as I get a good bit...Jason

 

The cooling / heating system on the 4.2 L GT is all highly integral to proper warm up and cool down and heat soaks. Weak links are the rotomolded polyethylene plastic heat welded baffled expansion tank. The blowoff pressure regulating cap is a weak link. It is the fail safe to allow vacuum reduction on cool down. In general: electrolysis in mixed metals and materials are all due to extreme temperatures, fatigue from very hot convection and proper Maserati specified coolant for such 4.2L engine. Pentosin has such red coolant for proper application. The relays and heat temperature sensors in the loop for the two stage cooling fans of the radiator are another suspect. As Jason said and as my SDFM Service Tech Jason stated the OEM hose is just a POS weak link meant to meet minimum requirements. The pin hole puncture in the crossover hose could have been from poor content and contaminate in manufacturing. SDFM does not replace with factory hose. They retrofit and superseded with Gates 2 ply nylon heavy service duty neoprene heater hose.

When I replace the expansion tank the assembly is sold with new blow off cap. SDFM Parts Manager, Eric Page queried the Expansion tank and it is stocked and routinely R and Rd (Removed and Replaced).

Another heat fatigue is the Plastic Air Box of the Air filter intake, It is heat fatigued in the clam shell. Formula Dynamic High Performance Air Filter is superior filter and the silicon perimeter of the filter is massive oversize to make the clam shell air box 3 tangs in the limited space near impossible to receive into the tang pockets.

Previous service techs and myself have failed to align and insert all three tangs. The middle tang skirt the pocket and whoops. The OEM foam perimeter of the air filter then fractures. Lower front air dam skip late has to have all 30 screw dropped to gain access to proof the 3 tangs are socketed. I have a new Air Box assembly for future R and R.

 

High Airflow Filters

...Another heat fatigue is the Plastic Air Box of the Air filter intake, It is heat fatigued in the clam shell. Formula Dynamic High Performance Air Filter is superior filter and the silicon perimeter of the filter is massive oversize to make the clam shell air box 3 tangs in the limited space near impossible to receive into the tang pockets.

Previous service techs and myself have failed to align and insert all three tangs. The middle tang skirt the pocket and whoops. The OEM foam perimeter of the air filter then fractures. Lower front air dam skip late has to have all 30 screw dropped to gain access to proof the 3 tangs are socketed. I have a new Air Box assembly for future R and R.

Yep. It's almost a mandatory 2 person job to get that alignment right with the aftermarket air filter inside. Helps greatly to have one person underneath ensuring all 3 tabs are seated into their respective slots, while somebody else does the airbox clamps from topside. My experience, anyway.

When you install your new airbox, please report back if newness made any difference in the tang setting drill.

KTBD

 

I get up every day to learn something new. Today I learn more than I wanted to.
The total dissolved salts in California is what from the San Diego Water Authority ? COLORADO RIVER IS OUR POTABLE WATER . TDS : Water imported via the Colorado River Aqueduct has a TDS averaging around 650 milligrams per liter (mg/l) during normal water years. During the high water flows of 1983– 1986, salinity levels in the Colorado River Aqueduct dropped to a historic low of 525 mg/l.

Welcome to our West World.

http://www.formuladynamics.com/testimonials.html

Ask Jeff at Formula Dynamics in Las Vegas, a ME to define: Disassociation, Galvanic Action, Electrolysis,and ...

I believe Enzo drank potable water called San Pelligrino. We drink bottled water in California or reverse osmosis water because there is ionic minerals in our local water and Salt intrusion from the Pacific Ocean in well water.

Try deionized water after your next tear down and look at the water jacket before and after.

 

Craig is correct. For years the common story was to use Distilled Water, but now we know it can cause problems in some cooling systems. Today, the best thinking is to use Reverse Osmosis water (sold by Walmart as "Drinking Water") in automotive cooling systems. We switched to it about 10 years ago.