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4200 CC : Problem starting when engine hot

13K views 54 replies 14 participants last post by  tonycharente  
#1 · (Edited)
I’ve now owned my 2005 (MY2006) 4200 CC for over three years and I still have an intermittent problem starting it from hot. This seems not to be an uncommon problem, but I have yet to find a definitive list of what to do to resolve it.

The car starts immediately from cold or when the engine is still warm, but sometimes (but only sometimes) it won’t restart when the engine is hot. It happens both in the winter and in the summer, and seems to be related to the engine temperature, not the outside temperature.

Returning home on the very day of my purchase (!!!) the car did not want to restart hot. I had stopped for 10 minutes in a service area (not to refuel, this having been done 65 miles previously.) When I wanted to restart (so after 10 minutes) the car did not want to restart. The starter motor spun the engine very quickly with no problem, but the engine refused to start. I left it for another quarter of an hour, and then it started as if nothing had happened.

Once home, plugging in a generic ODBII reader I had a pending P0128 code - "coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature". By doing research I found that this could come either from the thermostat, or from the coolant temperature sensor. The temperature indicated on the dashboard remains quite low, rarely exceeding 75°C, but this could come from false information provided by the sensor, which would result in too rich a mixture, and therefore the refusal to restart. From time to time the P0128 code has changed to "active" (therefore with the engine warning light coming on) without in itself creating a starting problem.

The car has not wanted to restart from hot from time to time ever since then, quite rarely and always shortly after stopping with a hot engine. After a few minutes it always restarts as if nothing had happened, albeit sometimes with a higher than normal tickover for a while. The car drives perfectly.

However, still only with the engine hot, I sometimes also had a problem when I reached circles slowing to a stop to yield to other traffic. Letting the system downshift on its own when approaching the circle, sometimes the engine has simply stalled, with the impossibility of restarting for 10 minutes / a quarter of an hour. That is to say that once stalled, I found myself with the problem of refusing to hot start without waiting. Doing some further research I found that stalling in these conditions could be the result of too low a "PIS" (the hot clutch slightly touching the flywheel causing the stall). Having bought a “Launch X431 Pros Mini” diagnostic tool a year ago, I increased the "PIS" to 5.2 and it has never stalled while driving since.

It had been months since the car refused restart when hot, but it did it to me again a few weeks ago, so I decided to have the coolant temperature sensor replaced. It has made no difference (temperature gauge still remains quite low, rarely exceeding 75°C, and still the occasional refusal to restart from hot.)

I also increased the PIS to 5.35 in case the clutch was still dragging when hot, but it has still done again it since.

During my three years of ownership, in addition to replacing the coolant temperature sensor, the battery, the clutch and the air filter, inter alia, have been replaced.

The last time it wouldn’t restart from hot I tried switching the ignition on and off several times before using the starter motor as I had read that the problem could come from a problem with fuel pressure not holding up (non-return valve not working) but that achieved nothing. There is no smell of gas under the hood. Opening and closing the gas cap makes no difference. Ditto the door. The brake light switch is working properly.

I am at my wits end… …all suggestions as to what to try next (and in what order) very welcome.

Thanks in advance

Tony
 
#3 ·
If your engine temp has always been low, why haven't you replaced the thermostat? Funny you mention the coolant temp sensor. Mine crapped on me driving it home after buying it. The next time I cranked it, it was obviously running rich and tripped a code less than a mile up the street. I also just went ahead and replaced my thermostat also, as to me that is cheap insurance.
 
#4 ·
Thank you both for your replies.

RE: "If your engine temp has always been low, why haven't you replaced the thermostat?"

Good question ! The reason was that if the coolant temperature was sending a false to the temperature gauge that would explain my hot starting problem. It looked to be a lot easier to change than the thermostat, so I thought I'd start with that. I don't think that running ar 75°C instead of 90°C would cause a hot start problem.

RE: "Have you replaced the crank sensor? Not a fan of firing the parts cannon but the cranks sensors are know to get flaky and create similar symptoms. "

I'm hesitant to change the crank sensor in the immediate, given the amount of work required to remove the inlet manifold to gain access to it. I've also posted my query on a French Maserati website. One suggestion has been that it might be caused by the immobilser. Next time it happens I'll try locking and opening the car with the remote and also try my spare key. If that doesn't work it's been suggested I use my Launch to measure the engine revs whilst trying to start the car. If it reads "0" that would confirm the chances that it's the crank sensor. What do you think, please?

Many thanks
Tony
 
#10 ·
Maybe you should consider that fuel injected engines are notoriously hard starting when hot. Ask any small aircraft pilot what its like doing a quick turnaround on a summer’s day.

I've had two Maseratis (4.2L and 4.7L) both were/are hard starting when hot, especially in summer.
 
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#15 ·
I've had a couple and they're all 90s to mid 00s cars.

Salut @tonycharente mon ami, ca va? If you are having trouble with the engine temperature, you should replace the thermostat - removing the intake is very easy, it takes less than 20 minutes. This is how I did it
I can't see why this would prevent the car from starting when hot.

A crank sensor is a common issue with a lot of cars, as the sensor ages the wires can form micro cracks which open and close depending on the temperature of wiring. If you keep your launch with you, the next time it happens you should be able to read the crank position sensor to verify it.

Another reason I've had a hot car fail to start is exhaust flowing back into the cylinders. This car was a turbo and stalled while racing so the exhaust blew right through the intake side. I had to crank it until all the gasses had cleared. If you have blocked cats you could also have exhaust reversion. This is an unlikely scenario.

Hope that helps.
 
#20 ·
Update...
In preparing to plug the purge valve as suggested on the "other" forum I used some rubber hosing with better hose clips and I so thought I'd try measuring the vacuum leakage again, both of my purge valve and of the Mityvac itself, this latter having previously itself been the subject of a slow leak. It turns out that the leakage of the Mityvac itself was down to leaks from the supplied clear plastic tubing (despite my using clamps) - it now only drops 2 or 3 PSI even overnight. So I remeasured the purge valve leakage rate yet again. There is still a small leak, but less than I had thought - a drop of around 10 PSI over 1.5 hours. Could that rate be enough to cause my hot start problem?

Anyway my next step is to try the car with the purge valve and the pipe to the manifold plugged to see whether this resolves my hot start problem. As my hot start problem is very intermittent, and as I only drive the car about once a week, it may be months before I start to feel that this has cured it. I do hope so, but at least if it it hasn't I'll have saved replacing the carbon canister and/or purge valve for nothing.

Watch this space...
 
#22 · (Edited)
Ive had my 4200 since 2018.
It presented at the PPI with a hot start issue. The ECU stored the same coolant temp sensor related fault. I bought the car. We changed the temp senor. It didnt cure the issue.
Since, I have changed the plugs, sonic cleansed the injectors, replaced the carbon canister, the purge ( aka washing) valve, temp sensor,( again,) thermostat, fan resistor, and crank position sensor....Further, I have cleansed the intake side and throttle body, replaced the air filter and breather hose that was cracked, and cleansed the MAF as we suspected an over filling of oil had seen it covered in oil vapours apreviously
The issue persists...
There is no smell of fuel..it always actually starts, albeit in the laziest, teetering on a knife edge, hardly bothering at @500rpms kind of way....
I have started to show it what my right foot is for these days....

After all the hours spent under the hood of this car, ( I have done a lot of the wrenching on this motor myself) , not to mention the bills Ive paid at a respected indy servicing workshop here in the UK, Im inclined to satisfy myself with the notion that its simply an awkward SOB...
Someone suggested I spend another chunk on replacing the binnacle interface. Im not convinced. But Im ignorant. And ground down, admittedly...
In the final analysis, it does actually start. And it serves to hide the atrocious rattle from oil drained variators...Something else the Indy has suggested is "nothing to worry about"...
Does it annoy the sh1t out of me..? You bet. Having spent money and time, a lot of time, on the car...it bugs the bejeesus out of me..
Can I live with it..? Huh. Im trying not be anal...and it s abig hole ive dug for myself by now !!
I bet you never find anything wrong with it o.p.
Just my twocents....
 
#23 · (Edited)
Ive had my 4200 since 2018.
It presented at the PPI with a hot start issue. The ECU stored the same coolant temp sensor related fault. I bought the car. We changed the temp senor. It didnt cure the issue.
Since, I have changed the plugs, sonic cleansed the injectors, replaced the carbon canister, the purge ( aka washing) valve, temp sensor,( again,) thermostat, fan resistor, and crank position sensor....Further, I have cleansed the intake side and throttle body, replaced the air filter and breather hose that was cracked, and cleansed the MAF as we suspected an over filling of oil had seen it covered in oil vapours apreviously
The issue persists...
There is no smell of fuel..it always actually starts, albeit in the laziest, teetering on a knife edge, hardly bothering at @500rpms kind of way....
I have started to show it what my right foot is for these days....

After all the hours spent under the hood of this car, ( I have done a lot of the wrenching on this motor myself) , not to mention the bills Ive paid at a respected indy servicing workshop here in the UK, Im inclined to satisfy myself with the notion that its simply an awkward SOB...
Someone suggested I spend another chunk on replacing the binnacle interface. Im not convinced. But Im ignorant. And ground down, admittedly...
In the final analysis, it does actually start. And it serves to hide the atrocious rattle from oil drained variators...Something else the Indy has suggested is "nothing to worry about"...
Does it annoy the sh1t out of me..? You bet. Having spent money and time, a lot of time, on the car...it bugs the bejeesus out of me..
Can I live with it..? Huh. Im trying not be anal...and it s abig hole ive dug for myself by now !!
I bet you never find anything wrong with it o.p.
Just my twocents....
Thank you TimR,
Thanks for your thoughts, but that would mean that our cars would fall into the category of "They all do that, Sir", which I hope is not the case - so I'm still living in hope of curing it.

I have plugged off the Purge Valve which has a very slight leak and I've then done my best to simulate the situations where the engine has failed to start from hot shortly after shutting it down, so far without "success", which is of course good news. However it's by no means conclusive since my failure to start from hot didn't / doesn't happen very often.
On Thursday just gone I ordered the following parts that are relatively easy to replace (compared to changing the Crank Sensor):- 180861 (Washing/Purge Valve), 220074 (Fuel Vapour Filter), 230890 (Thermostat) and 137873 (Gasket for the Thermostat). They are due to arrive on Tuesday. I shall then start by comparing the vacuum retention of the new Purge Valve with that of my old one, and then fitting the new one. I'll then need to try umpteen times to simulate the situations where the engine has failed to start from hot shortly after shutting it down, in the hope that this alone has cured my problem. Fingers crossed...
Tony

PS For those that have changed the Crank Sensor, did you also replace the manifold gaskets or were they readily reusable, please?
 
#25 ·
Hello Tony H,
Many thanks, but I believe what you say is only true for early North American cars. When you click on your link for no.27 (180137) in the detail it says "Quantity 2 four USA and CDN". However their thermostat housings are not the same. On the Europsares site they only show the later Thermostat (no.24 - 230890). However on the Scuderia site they show both versions - mine (230890) and the early North American version (230889) - which Scuderia note as "Valid for USA and CDN until engine 73454". I imagine that the second sensor screws into the housing of the 230889. Why on earth Maserati had two arrangements is anyone's guess !!!
Thanks again
Tony (P.)
 
#28 ·
Thank you again Tony H.,
I had a major (70000 kms) service done in November, including changing the coolant and I got billed for 9 litres of coolant which sounds right. The garage I used services several Maserati 4200's so I'm hoping they knew to bleed the bleed points, but I will check to see if any air comes out when you open them. However if they hadn't used the bleed points what would happen? Could that cause my hot start problem?
Thanks again,
Tony
 
#32 ·
Tony,

It's probably true that air in the system shouldn't cause hard starting. I mentioned the vents because I remembered it and air in the system can cause local overheating and engine damage so it's very important to do this right. Also, I recently changed my oil pressure sensor and if I had to so it again I'd put in a short extension. This would help to get it out in the future and, as you will find, you can't get the CPS out with the oil pressure sensor in place.
 
#36 ·
UPDATE : BAD NEWS
After testing my new Purge Valve vacuum retention and finding it to be better than my old one, I was quite optimistic about having solved my problem, and I would just have to do umpteen successful outings to prove it. Unfortunately today I had another fail to start when hot, so my work so far has been of no avail, except that I have eliminated the Purge Valve. I was also able to ensure that neither using my spare key nor locking and opening the door using the remote made any difference. I had my Launch set up to read engine revs, as suggested, but did not get "0" as a revs reading whilst trying to start the car. I did get some very unlikely readings though - 6848 and 8064... ...perhaps alternative signs of an iffy Crank Sensor? I did also try to sniff the exhaust pipes for the smell of petrol, but as I was on my own this was hard to achieve - there certainly was no strong smell of petrol by the time I lept out of the car and round to the back. As usual the car did eventually start and then drove perfectly.

I have ordered a new Crank Sensor but it is not due to arrive until next week.

Meanwhile I shall try replacing the Fuel Vapour Filter (220074, bought already) as it has never been replaced, just in case that is my problem. Watch this space...
 
#40 ·
Hello all,
It's been a while since I last posted anything, but I have not been idle. In fact because I really don't want to face up to changing the Crank Sensor due to the difficulty in doing so I have changed various other potential culprits first. After the Purge Valve I changed the Fuel Vapour Filter, still to no avail. Then, not without a considerable struggle, I replaced the Thermostat, as the ONLY fault code I'd been getting was P0128. Since then I have done loads of trips trying to replicate the fail-to-start-from hot, so far still thankfully without success. I've also still not yet had another P0128 code, nor any other code. I've even filled the tank up, meaning two restarts from hot, and still instant restarts.
So it's definitely still "so far so good" having changed the Thermostat, but I'll leave it a lot longer before I put all the engine bay covers back in. No point in tempting fate!
It will hopefully be a good while before I report back again - unless my hot-start problem strikes again.

You can read my saga in a lot more detail on the "other" forum if you wish :-


Thanks to all for all your advice.
Tony
 
#38 ·
Hi guys, I,m having a similar issue, driving fine then coolant temp drops to zero and red light starts flashing, live readings are 39° reset when running and goes to 80° I think thermostat could be jammed open, too long at 80° is triggering a coolant run up cycle fault and springs a DTC for coolant temp sensor P0116. Hot start was difficult because 39° hot start would be too rich. I,m going to take the stat off and confirm soon.
 
#41 ·
I honestly don't see how replacing any of those parts would fix your problem...None of those parts causes a car not to start...You honestly have no understanding of engine management..The crank and cam sensors are a primary inputs for the car to start...Engine temp and evap stuff is secondary.. :rolleyes: Jason
 
#42 ·
Hello Jason,
"You honestly have no understanding of engine management.."
Perhaps, but my problem is definitely heat related, and what I've changed (other than the vapor filter) was based on the experience of other posters. Changing the Thermostat does seem to have worked so far, as it has for others. I have already bought a new crank sensor and a pair of inlet manifold gaskets, but until such time as my hot starting problem occurs again I won't be fitting them.
 
#43 ·
I have never seen a thermostat cause a starting issue in 30+ years of working on cars..I think you will find that your problem comes back..You don't have to remove the intake to replace the crank sensor...Jason
 
#44 ·
Thank you Jason.
I do of course fear that I may well still have my hot start problem come back. My sole reason for not having started with the replacement of the crank sensor was what I took to be the necessity to remove the intake manifold, followed by the difficulty in removing the oil pressure sensor in order to gain access to the crank sensor. All of the guidance I'd seen, including Lambertius's excellent video, all point to the need to start by either removing the intake manifold entirely or at the very least unbolting it to move it forwards out of the way. I (and I'm sure many others) would love to know how replacing the crank sensor can be done without removing the intake manifold. If you could please detail how to do it I will be eternally grateful !!!
Many thanks
Tony
 
#47 ·
Thermostat has never caused a hot or cold start problem.
Map thermostats set faults, usually because the heater has an issue. Some thermostats stick open and cause a fault for vehicle taking to long to reach operating temp. Some stick closed and car overheats. You now know possible thermostat faults……. NOW CHANGE THE CRANK SENSOR, as I said many posts ago. I believe Jason also said the same thing (I think).
Not a hard job at all
 
#48 ·
Thank you Volvo302,
"Not a hard job at all"
Thank you for your input. I know you want to help me, but I see that you have previously changed your heater core, so compared with doing that this would be a cinch, no doubt. However the very thought of having to remove my intake manifold, never previously disturbed, plus potentially getting air leaks at the manifold gaskets, fills me with horror, and that's before I've struggled to get the oil pressure sensor out of the way. Jason filled me with hope by stating it can be done without moving the intake manifold, but couldn't remember how he'd done it. That's why I asked "Has anybody else with a 4200 or GS managed to change the crank sensor without at least unbolting and moving the intake manifold forwards, please? And just how?". No replies yet...

I do of course fear that I will end up having to change the crank sensor but whether or not it flies in the face of all logic, my changing the thermostat does seem to have worked. Sometimes the empirical is better than the theoretical. Time will tell.

Thanks again,
Tony
 
#51 ·
I do of course fear that I will end up having to change the crank sensor but whether or not it flies in the face of all logic, my changing the thermostat does seem to have worked. Sometimes the empirical is better than the theoretical. Time will tell.
UPDATE
Well, it's now been over three months since I wrote the above... ...and, at the risk of "speaking too soon", I'm delighted to report that changing the thermostat really does seem to have entirely cured my hot start problem. I've just just completed a touristic rally in Alsace (NE France) starting from the Charente (start of SW France) and completed nearly 2500 kms in 8 days with loads and loads of hot starts and did not have the slightest problem restarting. For those that are thinking that my thermostat being slow to open couldn't possibly cause a problem restarting, my thoughts are that whilst in itself that may be true, the slow warm up was throwing up a fault code (P0128, and the ONLY code I was getting) and that perhaps it's the presence of this fault code that upsets the fuel mixture, causing the difficult hot starts I had been (should I really have said that?) suffering from.
I'd removed all the engine bay trim in order to gain better access to replace the thermostat, and I have decided, however, not to tempt fate by reinstalling all the trim until several more months have gone by.