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Heater Core Replacement

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15K views 30 replies 11 participants last post by  Masera  
#1 ·
I am a bit tired from all the other research I have been doing for a 4200 that I am acquiring soon so I figured I would just ask about this one. What's the best replacement instructions that I can use and best/cheapest source for the parts.

Thank you in advance!
 
R
#2 · (Edited)
#3 ·
Thank you RJ237, been on the forum for awhile, but I now can finally move to this section because this is where I can get all the answers I will need for my new Italian Mistress!:grin2:

Just a couple quick question. Why did you go with Volvo heater core and did you replace any hoses and or clamps that I have read can also be a problem?

BTW, will be staring some more threads, hope you gents don't mind.
 
R
#4 ·
I made an error. It was a Saab 9000 core. If you buy a Maserati core it comes complete with the box and costs over $1000, maybe cheaper on ebay. The Alfa equivalent is just the core, probably $200+ if you can find it.

You should also plan on replacing the foam seals on the various air duct outlets as they have probably disintegrated. I couldn't figure out how to replace the two hoses without removing the inlet manifold, so I left them.

New Heater Core Saab 9000 1992-1998 5046362 | eBay
 
#8 ·
I'm not sure what exactly you were trying to say in that last post...but no, if you put it back together correctly the airbag light will NOT be on.
I'm puzzled by the number of people that will insist on putting the most expensive tires on their cars but shop around for the lowest price on the same (poorly designed) original part or similar.
The cost in labor alone can easily be over $2000.00
OR you can do it yourself like my wife and I did... It took 30-40 hours total over a couple of months.
Either way if your going to spend that much money or time, PLUS the part...you might as well get a lifetime one from Brassworks for $625.00.

If it took an hour or two to change it, then yeah, I could see putting another poorly designed original in it. If your going to keep the car.. understand that replacement original IS GOING TO FAIL again in another 12-14 years.
It is not a question of IF.
Ours failed last April (right around 13 years of age).
I could probably send you a PM of the dissasembly of (nearly) every screw and part We took off. I shot it with my IPad, so we could reassemble it all in reverse.
There is at least 1 screw that is VERY hard to find.
We used Bill T's instructions and (to a lesser extent) the ones by the Frenchman.
You really need someone to help with handing you tools and/or hold a flashlight where you need it.

Good luck
 
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#9 ·
Thanks Quagmire! Only reason I asked about the airbag light is because I think I read a post that someone had an issue with the light coming on after reassembly and had to go to dealer to have it turned off.
As for the heater, you are correct and if you don't mind letting me know which core you used and your photos, that would be much appreciated!
 
#11 ·
The core can be found at Thebrassworks.net
On the home page
Look at the left margin
Click on Other Heater Cores
It's the only one they sell (for Maserati)
Anything else I guess would be custom
Made in USA BTW. FWIW

You WILL need the "Right Angle Screwdriver" from Harbor Freight.
Item #92630
$ 2.99 online. Yes 3 dollars
It has a 1 inch clearance
A small 1/4 inch drive socket (with screw bits) wil not fit. I tried
Trust me you are eventually going to have to buy this Ratcheting screwdriver.
The clearance, length of handle, and the arc per click are the keys here.
You will of course need other screwdrivers and sockets (with extensions) but most of it is just screws.
Tape the screws you remove, near where they were installed, with duct tape or masking tape.
This will save a lot of time
There are 3 lengths of the same screw, which is predominantly used.
If you use the wrong one (during reassembly) you will almost certainly find later that the ones you have left are too short for the job.

Most of the time lapse I shot is 15-30 second Video's (with the IPad) because I knew that photos wouldn't have enough detail (plus I couldn't add verbal notes) to what I was doing if they were just pictures.
I strongly suggest anyone doing this should do the same.
I also used the the instructions posted by. Supercart 78
When I can figure out how to upload my video clips and pics to this post I will.
I'm in a hotel in San Marcos TX for work, and not sure how to do it without my home computer.
 
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R
#13 ·
You're probably right, but the aftermarket ones for under $30 are from China and I don't trust them. I see there is a URO version also, but even then, who knows?

One thing I have learned from the Jag forums is that even supposed OEM replacements are being sourced from lowest bid suppliers and not equal to the original factory parts.

I looked for all metal heater cores before I replaced mine but could only find custom made at rather exorbitant prices. I will use the Brassworkes unit for my next 4200 if it needs one.
 
#14 ·
This is not a rocket science- just a radiator.
They are probably made by the same companies that make after market radiators. I've replaced some after market radiators and never one issue. Obviously whoever was the Maserati supplier screwed up the sealant formula. Now it's 15 years later and every aftermarket supplier figured it out -otherwise they'd be out of business. The coolant formula might have changed as well so it won't eat thru the sealant. Otherwise car manufacturers would complain. The brass core is an overkill and waste IMO
Internet and google search are your friends ;-)
BTW it would be awesome to find out who the core OEM supplier was and if they are still in business- my money is onNOT ....
 
#18 ·
+2 with Jason on the air bag. You shouldn't be removing any electronic component in that vehicle with the battery still attached whether through the emergency cut off or complete removal.

Here's a short write up on the heater core: Maserati Heater Core | craig-waterman.com

Additionally, since I will be doing this in my GS this winter season, I also am looking into having a brass unit built, brassworks, no offense, is a bit expensive and they don't cost that much to build. Matter of factly many times the cores themselves are the same size as other vehicles, and the inlet/outlet tubes are just soldered on. Someone correctly identified it like a radiator, which is nothing more than a heat exchanger. Brass/copper cores also had their down falls and that should also be understood/researched.

As to them figuring out bad design for cores that still goes on to this date. I've seen brand new Camaros ripped apart for this same issue. Actually, many different makes and models you'd think of already gotten this correct, when so much work is involved. To be quite honest, though it's not as messy as replacing the clutch, because you are laying inside the vehicle, I would rather change the clutch in this vehicle than the heater core for various reasons. One is just all the cheap plastic laying in wait for you as you do so.

If you are doing this in a Coupe take the seats out, and cover them. It will give you more room, and space. You don't want to be rubbing up and down all over your leather seats during this process, especially with the tar like sticky pieces you are going to encounter.

Second, you don't have to remove the steering wheel, loosen the column and work around it. In either case, I did not do a write up on this because it definitely would have been a really long one for each and every bolt, nut or screw.
 
G
#19 ·
Hello guys, I used the part number mentioned in the write-up by Superkart78 (France), that number is 812400. Simply write it in the Amazon search field and here you go => https://www.amazon.com/1994-2007-He...-0L-3-2L/dp/B00D0DD8YE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1485143151&sr=8-6&keywords=812400


It is made by Valeo which for al I know is a reputable European supplier (you guys in Europe correct me if I'm wrong here). I did order it last year and got it, no issues, the guys selling it were from Latvia, they were quick, professional and easy to deal with (no affiliation whatsoever). I did not install it though as from all I've seen installation is a royal pain. The only time I've put the climate control on auto I ended up with a sweet smell in the cabin and coolant under the minimum line = it does leak. But if I do not turn on the heater it's a non-issue. I have not even bothered to do the by-pass that Craig wrote about, you do not turn the heat or A/C on, no issues. I live in Canada and the car is stored for the winter anyway, no need for heat. A/C is an issue at times, I have to agree. But again when I read about all the painful work one needs to do to replace the heater core I tell myself you can live with it, there are nicer things you can do; like driving the car instead of working on it. Granted the work last year getting the headlight assemblies out and back again did not help....


George
 
#22 ·
@gstroe brother I don't know if you know it or not, it doesn't matter if you actively run the heater or not. There's isn't a shut off valve to reroute the coolant from the heat exchanger when not in use like other vehicles have. It circulates through the heater core regardless. So if you are not going to change it, you might as well enjoy the heat if you need to. Just know, my very first Spyder ruined the leather around the tunnel because of it, set off the air bag light, and well was further damaged because I didn't reroute or change the core out sooner. Obviously, it's your car and I would never tell anyone what to do. Just understand that with this issue.
 
#23 ·
Has anyone tried using valves to reroute the coolant? Here is my thought... My Mas is currently bypassed (thanks to Craig's post) and I have a aluminum/plastic replacement core waiting to be installed (don't feel like wasting a weekend right now). I was thinking, since the Coolant is always routed to the passenger compartment (which I hate), wouldn't it be nice to have a valve system that could be integrated to the bypass lines so that you can turn on and off the bypass. This would help keeping the passenger compartment cooler in the summer months.... I could use all the help living in the South.
 
#24 ·
Try to search heater mono valve...There are several MB units you maybe able to splice in the line if there is enough room for install.. Be aware you would have to run power to one and probably put a rocker switch in to cycle the thing on and off.. It would reduce cabin temps some...Regards, Jason
 
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#25 ·
Craig and others,

I am lucky to have come across your collective writings on heater core replacement. Craig, a fine set of DIY instructions on your personal page..thank you. I am not experiencing core issues but am concerned my 2002 Spyder GT could wreak havoc at any time. For now, I will go with the 3' heater hose bypass. Now being that I am an amateur mechanic at best I do have a few dumb questions:

1) Assuming the heater core is a radiator of sorts will by-passing increase the system temperature and cause over-heating? Does the thermostat compensate?
2) I assume AC is a separate system from the heater core. I swear I read somewhere that if you by-pass the heater core you lose AC as well. That can't be true, correct? Perhaps I am confused?
3) Better to air purge or water purge then air purge the disconnected heater core?
4) As long as I can live without heat I should be fine driving with the by-pass for as long as I want?

Any answers/advice deeply appreciated. I would like to tackle the DIY bypass as soon as possible.
 
R
#26 ·
The bypass will not affect engine temp. as air is not passing through the heater core if you do not require heat, and the liquid volume is low.

The AC will not be affected, and it wouldn't hurt to flush the heater with water, but I don't see an advantage either as long as you blow it out with air.
 
C
#27 · (Edited)
Many thanks, RJ. Air not passing through the core now makes sense to me. It is not as though the heater core bleeds a significant amount of heat. I agree that the liquid volume is low and there should be very little impact. By my crazy math the 3/4" x 3' by-pass hose will hold approximately 8.8 US liquid ounces so not really removing much away from the system.

volume of a cylinder = pi x radius squared x height
3.14 x (.375)(.375) x 36 = 15.90 cubic inches
1 cubic inch = 0.004329 US liquid gallon
15.90 cubic inches = 0.068831 US liquid gallon
0.068831 x 128 ounces = 8.81 liquid ounces
 
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