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+2 with Jason on the air bag. You shouldn't be removing any electronic component in that vehicle with the battery still attached whether through the emergency cut off or complete removal.

Here's a short write up on the heater core: Maserati Heater Core | craig-waterman.com

Additionally, since I will be doing this in my GS this winter season, I also am looking into having a brass unit built, brassworks, no offense, is a bit expensive and they don't cost that much to build. Matter of factly many times the cores themselves are the same size as other vehicles, and the inlet/outlet tubes are just soldered on. Someone correctly identified it like a radiator, which is nothing more than a heat exchanger. Brass/copper cores also had their down falls and that should also be understood/researched.

As to them figuring out bad design for cores that still goes on to this date. I've seen brand new Camaros ripped apart for this same issue. Actually, many different makes and models you'd think of already gotten this correct, when so much work is involved. To be quite honest, though it's not as messy as replacing the clutch, because you are laying inside the vehicle, I would rather change the clutch in this vehicle than the heater core for various reasons. One is just all the cheap plastic laying in wait for you as you do so.

If you are doing this in a Coupe take the seats out, and cover them. It will give you more room, and space. You don't want to be rubbing up and down all over your leather seats during this process, especially with the tar like sticky pieces you are going to encounter.

Second, you don't have to remove the steering wheel, loosen the column and work around it. In either case, I did not do a write up on this because it definitely would have been a really long one for each and every bolt, nut or screw.
 
@gstroe brother I don't know if you know it or not, it doesn't matter if you actively run the heater or not. There's isn't a shut off valve to reroute the coolant from the heat exchanger when not in use like other vehicles have. It circulates through the heater core regardless. So if you are not going to change it, you might as well enjoy the heat if you need to. Just know, my very first Spyder ruined the leather around the tunnel because of it, set off the air bag light, and well was further damaged because I didn't reroute or change the core out sooner. Obviously, it's your car and I would never tell anyone what to do. Just understand that with this issue.
 
No need to apologize. I thought I would post my questions on the board as well. This board has been of tremendous assistance to me on several topics. I think I fully understand the bypass procedure at this time. My only questions would be what is the best way to bleed the system after bypassing? I am concerned that an air pocket will form once I disconnect the hoses from the core.
You don't need to bleed it per se. It will bleed itself after reconnecting the line together.

Start the vehicle bring it up to operating temp. Refill reservoir to mark. Once the thermostat opens to circulate, the coolant won't drop again.
 
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