Hey, stranger...great to see you. Not a job I have had to tackle on these (yet)...but I have done a ton of motor mounts over lo, these many years...and have always lifted the engine rather than dropping the subframe. Interested to see which way you go...

 

Member BobDPipe has a good video on the lowering subframe technique.

 

Good to hear from you Dlax

Timado, I wonder if the procedure is similar enough between the 4200 and Granturismo?

 

If I were a betting man, I'd probably keep that money in my pocket...though realistically I have no idea.

 

I’ve replaced both of mine. Yes it is a PITA, but doable. I chose to lift the engine via a jack from under after bolts were undone. Short swivel sockets were a must.

 

Excellent. So you left the subframe alone? Are there precautions I should take when jacking up the motor? Any tips to get the clearance needed to get the new mounts in? What mounts did you use?

 

I stand corrected, I dug up my old post (link below) and realized that I did have to unbolt the subframe to go enough clearance. As for jacking up the motor, I did a little at a time until I had the space I needed. Fingers were crossed with every pump of the jack. The mounts I got from allferrariparts, they we available there at that time.

https://www.maseratilife.com/threads/vibration-4k-rpm.110514/page-2

 

Did this last year. Was a butt puckering experience raising the engine. Did have to both loosen the subframe and jack the engine. What I found it that basically any of the era mounts will wok (4200/quatroporte/GT - engine or trans) as they are all the same except different top plates. I swapped my top plates over, but I'm not sure it was all that necessary.

Took me a long evening. I did a quick process post awhile back here: https://www.maseratilife.com/thread...com/threads/changing-engine-mounts-on-03-sypder-cc-convert.131761/#post-1053009

I did use knock-off e-bay mounts. They have not exploded on me, but it's only been 10 months and maybe 700 miles since. If I did not have the capacity to do again readily available I would have eaten the cost of OEM. Which leads me to my next comment......

I would not attempt this w/o a lift!!!!!! The logistics would be far far too difficult. If anyone has done something like this in their driveway/garage floor you have my utmost respect because I imagine it would be a total nightmare. I ended up using a 4 poster, a sliding jack, AND the jacking plate/bottle jack. Clearances were VERY tight for literally everything engine related . Suggest doing the trans first to provide yourself a healthy taste of ambition and false optimism.

Feel free to shoot my a PM and I can provide my cell if you get stuck mid-process.

 

I appreciate the input and the offer. I too will be using Ebay mounts, I got 3 for $300 shipped whereas the factory ones would've been $900.

Just finished it 2 weeks ago, it was and lowering the subframe (requires exhaust mid section off the squished part, loosen the steering rack and the lower shock bolts) to lower enough AND lifting the engine with a transmission jack. Not a job I want to do regularly but doable if you have a lift, and the right jacks/jackstands. With the QP mounts you’ll need 4 M10x1.25 nuts to fix the mounts, but that is an easy bolt on once you managed to wrestle the old mount out, realise you need more space to get the new one in, and after 1hr of additional swearing with a combo of lowering frame and even more lifting of the engine, 10 seconds before you want to give up, it slips in!

Thanks for the input as well. I'm going to disassemble as much as I need to up front to hopefully make it a little more straight forward.

 

Just finished it 2 weeks ago, it was and lowering the subframe (requires exhaust mid section off the squished part, loosen the steering rack and the lower shock bolts) to lower enough AND lifting the engine with a transmission jack. Not a job I want to do regularly but doable if you have a lift, and the right jacks/jackstands. With the QP mounts you’ll need 4 M10x1.25 nuts to fix the mounts, but that is an easy bolt on once you managed to wrestle the old mount out, realise you need more space to get the new one in, and after 1hr of additional swearing with a combo of lowering frame and even more lifting of the engine, 10 seconds before you want to give up, it slips in!

 

after 1hr of additional swearing with a combo of lowering frame and even more lifting of the engine, 10 seconds before you want to give up, it slips in!

I can definitely relate, once a month or so when my wife drinks enough to be adventurous.

 

And, at start-up the diva had a new exhaust rattle. It tuned out to be the heatshield protecting the steering rack was touching the squished exhaust part since the engine was higher. A bit of bending the shield solved it.

 

Okay! Once I got the motor jacked up and the subframe pulled down, the old mounts came out easily, and the new mounts went in easily. Very pleased at this point. Before I put everything back together, does anyone have insight on what I should do about these mounting plates? The new mounts are a slightly different design from the old ones as you can see. Should I leave the plate off all together? Should I cut the under plate enough to accommodate the other plate? What do you guys think? @Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta

 

Okay! Once I got the motor jacked up and the subframe pulled down, the old mounts came out easily, and the new mounts went in easily. Very pleased at this point. Before I put everything back together, does anyone have insight on what I should do about these mounting plates? The new mounts are a slightly different design from the old ones as you can see. Should I leave the plate off all together? Should I cut the under plate enough to accommodate the other plate? What do you guys think? @Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta


Good to hear it all worked. I ckecked the GT diagramms when I encountered those plates, and since the GT does not have them and the mounts are from a GT, I just did not use them. Until now the engine is still where it is supposed to be.

 

I’d leave the new mount as it is with the one plate installed.
Presume they are only there to protect incase of the mount completely collapsing, where when failed the plate would rest on the fixed part of the mount

 

Anyway nice job, how long did that take you?

 

About 1 hour total so far, being very careful with the subframe lowering and engine lifting. I'm assuming another hour to get it back together, I've already had the new mounts in and back out, so I didn't run into the clearance issue they most others have.

 

I was very easily able to remove the top plates from the old mounts and new mounts and swap them over. I'll detail best practice when I edit the original post. It's going to be another few days until I get her all back together, I decided to do FD front and rear sway bars and lowering springs while I have everything apart, they should arrive tomorrow.

 

Can you document a bit the lowering spring installation? No budget and not real need right now but I am tempted…

 

Engine mounts are all wrapped up. I'll do a full write up in a week or two, after I tackle the trans mount. All in all, the job was very easy, and straight forward, about 2 hours start to finish. This trans mount looks like a horror show, most I can find is I'll have to remove the trunk liner. I'll keep posted.

 

For the gearbox mount make a read here as it might help, nice job on the engine ones.

GS Gearbox Flex Mount Removal

Hi, Does anyone know how to remove the Gearbox Flex pad mount on the GS? Cannot seem to get it to budge? Thanks Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

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