[Jaymerritt]

Hey,
I am going to replace or put new bushing in my control arms on a 2009 Gran Turismo (69000 miles) I am getting a clunking noise when I hit bumps in the road.I see complte control arm sets for $400 on ebay and bushing kits from Formula Dynamis for $259 a side,and all sorts of other much more expensive prices from lots of other sources.I am confused about what the correct choice would be? Could someone more experienced with the control arms help steer me in the right direction?
Thank
Jay

 

[Sock Tucker]

I would use @FormulaDynamics whenever possible.

 

[BobDPipe]

Well that is my next job too… I am going to just replace the bushings and I will be fitting lowering springs at the same time. I would use Formula Dynamics, but I am in the UK, so using Superformance for bushes and H&R for springs.

I have no idea what the cheap control arms are like. I must admit that should a ball joint go, then it would be tempting to try.

My plan with bushes is to take out the upper arm bush bolts and then the shock, fit the lowered springs. I have no idea what height to adjust them to (mine is a 2008 with adjustable shocks), I think people have already messed with settings, so may have to just adjust and try a few times.

With shock out, I will then use a reciprocating saw to cut through the bushes and hopefully that will be enough to get the bush out. I do have a pneumatic tool too that I could stick a hammer bit in.

someone said you need to make washers up to fit between the bush metal outer bit and metal inner bit so that you can push in the bush the whole way. I guess bush in freezer before hand will help with making stuff slide in. A big G clamp should do the driving or perhaps the old sockets, threaded rod and tap with hammer will get it.

More fun on the drive…

Good luck!

 

[12 cylinders]

Removing the old bushings is a pain, and care must be take so you don't damage the soft aluminum control arm surfaces. Before removing the old bushings be sure to note the orientation relative to the control arm, the rubber inserts are clocked to a specific rotation. When pushing the new bushings in, apply force only to the outer sleeve. When reinstalling the control arms, do not tighten the control arm pivot bolts until you have the suspension positioned as if the car was resting on the ground, otherwise the rubber insert will be twisted and fail prematurely.

I need to replace the front-upper bushings on my QP as well. I've read a lot of posts on the cheap Chinese control arms, which come complete with bushings and fall joint. Surprisingly not a lot of negative comments....I may try them out.

 

[stamper197]

I just purchased new control arms and tie rods myself all chinese sourced for my GTS, so will see what happens, I also did source new bushing kits for my existing control arms, the car has 55k miles but when i took it for alignment they couldnt actually do a proper alignment since the control arms and tie rods they said look like they are loose etc. I have read that if you do replace all the bushings for the control arms that you still run the risk of the ball joint failing sooner or later and then your back at square zero with new labor involved so best to just get the new control arms. I am also replacing the shock bushings on all of the skyhooks to nip that in the butt while all the labor has been taken to dismount everything. I have new rebuilt skyhook shocks also remade in china and am debating if I want to replace the shocks while replacing the control arms.

 

[14GTVERT]

I used ebay upper control arms and so far they are working fine. Mechanic said he doesnt like to try and press new bushings. Paid $150 for the set.

 

[BobDPipe]

Well I am in middle of removing the upper control arm bushes now. So far not too bad. I am keeping the control arms on the car as I do not want to split out the ball joint. I am twisting off the bush plate with mole grips and then using a 40mm bimetallic hole saw to cut out the rubber insides of the bush. Then I use a hack saw to carefully cut through the rim and bore of the bush, it is not necessary to cut fully through and leaving 15 thou gives enough weakness to allow a screwdriver and hammer to tap it a bit and make it lose its grip in the hole. One side dismantled now, one to go. I am doing one side at a time and fitting lowered springs too, so all good fun.

The lowering springs are confusing me as I have an early 2008 car with adjustable spring seats. Someone has fiddled with the ride height, so I don’t know what the stock ride height wheel to wheel arch gap was. May be a bit of trial and error needed. I think I would like 2cm front and 2.5cm rear gaps as I already had 2cm on the front and it looked right. The rear has a 4.5cm gap which is just so wrong. So my thought is that as the lowering springs lower the front by 15mm and rear by 35mm; I should raise the spring seat by 15mm to keep the gap at 2cm on the front and also raise the rear by 15mm so that with the lowered spring, it goes down to 2.5cm… I think that is right…

 

[12 cylinders]

Like stamper197 stated above....I too have purchased new front-upper control arm assemblies, just waiting on their arrival now. After installing them - I'll post the results.

 

[Jaymerritt]

Like stamper197 stated above....I too have purchased new front-upper control arm assemblies, just waiting on their arrival now. After installing them - I'll post the results.

Thanks
I really appreciate that
Jay