Hello all! Anyone who has done this, can you indicate how difficult it is? 2003 Spyder CC Convertible. 66k miles. I have lift access, wondering if the engine has to be raised significantly, or can the engine mounts be coaxed in? The car is 20 years old, has some shudder and vibration, especially on hard acceleration. (Changing plugs first, low power and chuffs a tiny bit on start off until hit about 2k rpm). I suppose the Transmission mount(s?) I should change at the same time.. Mount parts available? Source? I know I ask a lot, Hahahaah! But thank you, anyone who has been through this, for some insight! It is much appreciated. Had it out today for a 50 mile ride, first this Spring.
lenkwoodworking
Replace both the motor mounts and transmission mounts if you're there doing it. They likely both will need it as well. The motor can be lifted and mounts can be squeezed in there without taking it all apart. It's certainly work though to get it done.
As to parts if you email or call us with your VIN#, we can quote genuine Maserati replacements.
Best of luck!
As to parts if you email or call us with your VIN#, we can quote genuine Maserati replacements.
Best of luck!
Some useful information re: mounts to consider here:
www.maseratilife.com
Courtesy of @Oishi.
Anyone have a used motor mount?
If anyone has an old motor mount or gearbox mount laying around I’d like to see about using it as a template to make my own. Obviously a used one that’s been replaced is what I’m going for
www.maseratilife.com
Courtesy of @Oishi.
Just finished doing the trans mount, and what a B@#€ that was! Initially it seemed very easy, jack up transbox, undo the rear subframe cross member, undo the bolts, but the bolt on top of the mount is fully covered by the F-1 solenoid assembly. So out with the trunk liner, exhausts, heat shield, drop rear frame a few cm, unbolt the bracket that holds the solenoid assembly and finaly acces to the 18mm top bolt that hold the mount in place. The GT engine mounts fit, just remove the rubber lip and add 2 nuts and you’re good to go. The trans is now off the sub frame hanging on the mount.
so today the engine mounts, but after I did them on the QP I sold last year, it should be similar or even a bit easier since it seems there is more room at the firewall so jacking up the enigine should be easier. But still going to lower the front sub-frame.
so today the engine mounts, but after I did them on the QP I sold last year, it should be similar or even a bit easier since it seems there is more room at the firewall so jacking up the enigine should be easier. But still going to lower the front sub-frame.
Just did this. PITA, but well well worth it to remove some random shutter at idles and a couple of spots in the RPM range. On a scale of 1-10 this was about a 5. Took a bit of ingenuity to figure out what needed to be done. A lift is a 100% requirement in addition to a couple of jacks. Fortunately I have a 4 post, pneumatic sliding lift, and a bottle jack w/jacking plate. I used all three. Will outline what I did below for reference:
Mounts:
Bought off e-bay. 2 for $120. They are part number 226572 per seller. Are they genuine Maserati? Not likely. Did they work? Yes. If they fail prematurely I will update - but since the original mounts seem to give out early on I figured I don't have much to lose. I had to pull the plates on the new mounts and swap with the old. If I did it again I would just leave the new plates on and remove the little rubber piece that is glued on.
Trans:
I have a 6MT so this was cake. Loosen bolts (remember to PB blast them the night before). Jack up trans a bit. Remove cross member under trans. Remove mount. Repeat in reverse.
Drivers side:
Disconnect intake hose from MAF. Unscrew front O2 sensor bolt that secures wire to the subframe. If you forget this you WILL destroy the sensor as I nearly did. Disconnect exhaust from headers. Remove all bolts from engine mount driver side and loosen bolts on passenger side.. There is very little clearance to get leverage on the top bottle, so be warned. I absolutely needed a cheater on my wrench and band aides for my fingers when it broke loose. On the engine mounting arm there is a small boss. I was able to squeeze the piston from the bottle jack in and jack from that boss on the mounting arm. You will need to raise the engine more than you think - and even more for getting the new mount in than taking the old one out. When dropping the engine back onto the mount be careful to keep alignment of the mount. Do not raise engine more than is necessary.
Passenger side:
This takes a bit more ingenuity as you cannot jack the engine up as much do to clearances with the oil hose from the reservoir tank. Like the drivers side, remove the O2 sensor wire bolt from under the bumper. Loosen front sub-frame. There are 4 bolts that I believe are M10 hex. Two in in the rear are easy to see (I loosened but did not remove). The one in the front and under the engine mount are recessed into the subframe. Remove passenger tire (this is where I used the sliding jack, but not needed on a 2-post) and locate remaining two bolts located directly under the upper A-arm mounting points. Remove. Thake note to any factory shims that are located between the sub-frame and chassis. They look like little two spoke Poseidon spears (yes, it is a loose Maserati logo reference there). Back under the engine there is not clearance for a jack-pump ram to hit the boss on the passenger side engine mount arm. I used a T25 star socket that fit inside the boss on a 8" socket extension that I then jacked with the bottle jack (using a sleeve to assure the extension did not slip off the jack). NOT OSHA APPROVED, but it worked. Jack engine up keeping a close eye on the tension on the oil hose. Once that hose is as stressed as you are willing to accept, take a pry bar and work the sub-frame down near the engine mount. I had to drop a little over an inch to get the clearance I needed to remove. When installing new mount I had to use a pry bar to assist in gaining the clearance I needed. Reassemble keeping those sub-frame shims mentioned earlier in mind. I had the rearmost shims drop-out and had to reinstall.
Took me about 5 hours. If I had to be it again I could likely accomplish in 1/2 that time. It was not what I consider a "fun" car project, but not the worst one I have tackled either.
Mounts:
Bought off e-bay. 2 for $120. They are part number 226572 per seller. Are they genuine Maserati? Not likely. Did they work? Yes. If they fail prematurely I will update - but since the original mounts seem to give out early on I figured I don't have much to lose. I had to pull the plates on the new mounts and swap with the old. If I did it again I would just leave the new plates on and remove the little rubber piece that is glued on.
Trans:
I have a 6MT so this was cake. Loosen bolts (remember to PB blast them the night before). Jack up trans a bit. Remove cross member under trans. Remove mount. Repeat in reverse.
Drivers side:
Disconnect intake hose from MAF. Unscrew front O2 sensor bolt that secures wire to the subframe. If you forget this you WILL destroy the sensor as I nearly did. Disconnect exhaust from headers. Remove all bolts from engine mount driver side and loosen bolts on passenger side.. There is very little clearance to get leverage on the top bottle, so be warned. I absolutely needed a cheater on my wrench and band aides for my fingers when it broke loose. On the engine mounting arm there is a small boss. I was able to squeeze the piston from the bottle jack in and jack from that boss on the mounting arm. You will need to raise the engine more than you think - and even more for getting the new mount in than taking the old one out. When dropping the engine back onto the mount be careful to keep alignment of the mount. Do not raise engine more than is necessary.
Passenger side:
This takes a bit more ingenuity as you cannot jack the engine up as much do to clearances with the oil hose from the reservoir tank. Like the drivers side, remove the O2 sensor wire bolt from under the bumper. Loosen front sub-frame. There are 4 bolts that I believe are M10 hex. Two in in the rear are easy to see (I loosened but did not remove). The one in the front and under the engine mount are recessed into the subframe. Remove passenger tire (this is where I used the sliding jack, but not needed on a 2-post) and locate remaining two bolts located directly under the upper A-arm mounting points. Remove. Thake note to any factory shims that are located between the sub-frame and chassis. They look like little two spoke Poseidon spears (yes, it is a loose Maserati logo reference there). Back under the engine there is not clearance for a jack-pump ram to hit the boss on the passenger side engine mount arm. I used a T25 star socket that fit inside the boss on a 8" socket extension that I then jacked with the bottle jack (using a sleeve to assure the extension did not slip off the jack). NOT OSHA APPROVED, but it worked. Jack engine up keeping a close eye on the tension on the oil hose. Once that hose is as stressed as you are willing to accept, take a pry bar and work the sub-frame down near the engine mount. I had to drop a little over an inch to get the clearance I needed to remove. When installing new mount I had to use a pry bar to assist in gaining the clearance I needed. Reassemble keeping those sub-frame shims mentioned earlier in mind. I had the rearmost shims drop-out and had to reinstall.
Took me about 5 hours. If I had to be it again I could likely accomplish in 1/2 that time. It was not what I consider a "fun" car project, but not the worst one I have tackled either.
if dropping the sub frame is the better way to go, does anyone know if those bolts are torque to yield bolts, or are we perfectly fine to retorque them when doing the subframe back up?
Any one got any perspective of which give out first? the front on the motor, or in back on the transaxle?
thanks much in advance for your kind support!
(slowly compiling my list of things to do this fall/winter.... (all the fluid DnRs, switchable heater bypass, acc belt, air and cabin filters, plugs, tires, maybe.....motor mounts, tranny mounts, suspension ball joints. then just use the top until problems surface
Any one got any perspective of which give out first? the front on the motor, or in back on the transaxle?
thanks much in advance for your kind support!
(slowly compiling my list of things to do this fall/winter.... (all the fluid DnRs, switchable heater bypass, acc belt, air and cabin filters, plugs, tires, maybe.....motor mounts, tranny mounts, suspension ball joints. then just use the top until problems surface
Any of the mounts for the GT/Quadrapolte (sp?) will work. The top mounting plates are different and should be reused from the originals. As far as I noted when I took them out, all three can be used interchangeably. I re-used the bolts, doubtful they are torque to yield, but I will defer to others expertise on that.
Not sure if it makes a difference replacing the trans first vs the engine. The trans mount is a piece of cake. The engine............ not so much. I did a write-up on a different thread. I can't seem to find it now, but if you search I am sure it will turn up.
Not sure if it makes a difference replacing the trans first vs the engine. The trans mount is a piece of cake. The engine............ not so much. I did a write-up on a different thread. I can't seem to find it now, but if you search I am sure it will turn up.
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