The dealer once told me we are not supposed to jump start the car like other cars, without removing all the positive and negative connections at the battery. if not, it can screw up the electronics. Not sure if I believe the dealer. But try to trickle charge your battery over night and see if it works. You can get a cheap 1/2 or 1 amp battery trickle charger from anywhere. I always trickle charge my battery at all times because I don't want any such issues. Let us know what happens.

 

12 V is fairly low as it is, but more importantly it's the cranking Amps reading ( if you have an instrument to measure that ) which is the best indication just how dead the battery is, and why it does not hold sufficient charge . I would recommend hooking it up to a trickle charger for at least 24 hrs , and then drive it for at least 30 minutes before checking again to see how it does. It may have developed bad cell and losing charge too quickly . Most battery shops like Interstate , and some of the large Auto shops and service places ( Autozone , Pep Boys , etc ) will stress test the battery for you for free , using pretty comprehensive test instrumentation, and will be able to tell if the battery is bad, or it simply needs a full recharge .
P.s. I also don't fully believe the dealers' assertion that you cannot jump this car battery as you would others ; I do realize the electronics dependency on our batteries are very finicky , but I think its safe to jump it ; my car was jump started twice by the previous owner who hardly drove it at all for about a year before I bought it , and it's has had no problems whatsoever .

 

Jumping them from a running car is really not the greatest idea. Odd things happen if you suddenly change loads of an inductive system.

Leaving that aside, it does rather sound like you've blown a fuse.

I'd get the battery checked or replaced and / or trickle charged

You might want to check Fuse F19 under the hood as well.

C

 

fyi, even if your battery was just discharged but still a potentially functioning and normal battery, just letting it idle for 10 minutes wouldn’t bring it back up to its proper voltage and allow subsequent normal starts. The car needs to be driven at speed for probably at least 30 minutes depending on how badly discharged it was. It’s also been said that after the initial cold start, to just let any car sit and idle for more than a minute or two is not good. The oil and other fluids need to be circulated throughout the engine and other components.

 

I think the main issue here when jumping the Receiving vehicle is the immediate voltage drop, and then the voltage spike from the regulator with the Donor vehicle running. If you put the jump cables on the vehicle with both vehicles off first, when you start the donor vehicle it will already sense the decrease voltage and not spike out suddenly. This is because the draw is already there when the vehicle is started, instead of the immediate draw with it running.

Moving on from that, it's just never a good idea regardless to jump these vehicles unless it's an absolute emergency. So many times I see people do things with these vehicles because they just don't want to take the time. Even if you do what I suggested above, what happens if the positive jumps off and grounds out accidentally on the car (yep I have seen it happen)? Why not remove the battery, go down the street and purchase another one, and put a new one in?

In this Posters situation it's obvious he deep cycled the battery (even if not on purpose), and killed the cells, so it's no longer holding a charge. After leaving the car running and seeing it didn't charge (even minutely more than before), it was indicative of this. It's very possible that you've killed so much of the battery's cells it's no longer holding any charge even if it did initially. It's also very possible that because of this the starter isn't clicking anymore because there's not enough CCA (not just voltage as was explained above) to even activate it. IMHO I think you should remove the battery replace it with another one, preferably a deep cycle type battery, and begin your diagnosis from there. You could be chasing something that's not even an issue, besides the fact even if you do get it started again, you still have to replace the battery. Let's just start from a brand new battery, and go from there. In the end it would be the best route to go, even it not the easiest to begin with.

 

Quick question:

I put my car into an unheated garage for winter storage.

In storage Nov 4, 2017 (did not disconnect batt)

Dec 19th I attached and put on the Maserati Trickle charger (unlocked car no problem with remote, but did NOT test it for start up)

I do NOT plan on driving it until mid-late spring 2018...(But I might go by and start it up from time to time)

Should I just disconnect battery altogether or is leaving the trickle charger on for months on end enough?

 

You might want to over inflate the tires a touch to help against flatspotting. Maybe roll it forwards and back a bit.

Make sure the EPB is *OFF*

Sure there will be lots of other suggestions about fuel stablisers and the like

C

 

Tasnam, it is ok to trickle charge the battery without disconnecting anything. Yes, CatmanV2 suggested turning off the EPB cause I heard can get stuck if not used??. If possible, you may want to start car every few weeks and turn on the AC (yes, even in winter) for 5 minutes to lubricate all the O rings in the AC system.

 

The EPB has a very nasty habit (as wit the 4200) of the shoes weld themselves to the drum (rust basically). When (if) it disengages, the shoes can de-laminate which will jam up the whole works and leave you unable to proceed, and with a large bill.

I *always* turn my EPB off when I park at all. I really don't see the point of it, given the ZF box and the parking pawl....

On the CC I would always leave it in first gear.

C

 

OK so for long-term storage:

Over inflate tires a wee bit
Start it up every few months and let run (maybe drive it a little)
Move it so now flat spots on tires
Run A/C 5 min+
No EPB on
Manual locks engaged
Fuel stabilizer

But no one answered - (if not going to drive it for 5 months) Should I just unhook the battery entirely or leave on trickle charger the entire time?

 

OK so for long-term storage:

Over inflate tires a wee bit
Start it up every few months and let run (maybe drive it a little)
Move it so now flat spots on tires
Run A/C 5 min+
No EPB on
Manual locks engaged
Fuel stabilizer

But no one answered - (if not going to drive it for 5 months) Should I just unhook the battery entirely or leave on trickle charger the entire time?

I know many people that store their cars for various reasons even because they have so many, I do not think it is necessary to disconnect it. the PCM will possibly need to relearn short term fuel trims etc if you do, not a huge deal, but no need in my mind. Also I think starting the car without giving sufficient drive time to fully heat fluids to operating temps is a bad thing, you will be collecting moisture each time you short start it. If you do want to do it this way I would suggest changing fluids when you get it out of storage starting with fresh fluids for the driving season.

 

I'd unhook the battery. simple clip. make sure the emergency trunk release works first.

 

Tasnam, it is ok to trickle charge the battery without disconnecting anything. I have been doing it for years on all my cars DAILY and never had start issues and never bought a battery over last 10 years. I just plug it in and leave it. The Maserati charger is made by CTEK which is the best smart charger. It will not hurt the battery or overcharge. CTEK makes battery chargers for Aston, Lambo, Ferrari, and other exotics.

 

Awesome....thanks!!