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2011 4.7L GTS

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Kawasaki

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys
I bought this 2011 GTS 7 months ago in spring. I had fun with the car during summer until the weather changed to cold in October.
The problem is when the engine is up to temperature the Lifters / Tappets are making noise @ ''2000 - 3000 RPM only'' I replaced the engine oil and filter last weekend and I'm still having the issue with the ticking noise from the engine.
From what I've read this is a common issue with these engines. Here are some of the fixes I condensed to this page.
Solution

1. MAFS sensor maybe bad and sending the wrong info to the timing? I did install a BMC high flow filter during summer not sure if it's sucking too much cold air.
2. Engine oil level @ full on dipstick is too low, HATCHED marks on dipstick is incorrect.
3. Using seafoam in the engine for 300 to 500 Km to dissolve the varnish and unclogging lifters.
4. Use a thinner oil like 0W-40 not 5W-40

Just wondering if anyone tried these fixes and got results.
 
#2 ·
1.) that one is a great example of internet theory...If it sucked so much cold air it would come standard from the factory..I'm picking on who came up with that one BTW...Not you...
2.) the oil is full enough if it is in the hatch marks.
3.) Use the seafoam like Erik said for a bit...You got nothing to lose..
4.) just use the factory oil for now unless the seafoam doesn't work.. The people that built the engine have the best idea what viscosity it takes as they are the ones that designed it and set internal clearances and did all the hot and cold testing and failure test etc...

Jason
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta said:
1.) that one is a great example of internet theory...If it sucked so much cold air it would come standard from the factory..I'm picking on who came up with that one BTW...Not you...
2.) the oil is full enough if it is in the hatch marks.
3.) Use the seafoam like Erik said for a bit...You got nothing to lose..
4.) just use the factory oil for now unless the seafoam doesn't work.. The people that built the engine have the best idea what viscosity it takes as they are the ones that designed it and set internal clearances and did all the hot and cold testing and failure test etc...

Jason
Click to expand...
Thanks Jason.
The seafoam did seem like the logical thing to do, I was just worried if the seafoam would have a reaction to the seals and or washing the Cap Bearings... I don't drive the car everyday, just on the weekends, so the seafoam/5w-40 mixture will sit in the engine for a couple months until I can do the 804 km engine flush cycle. Would you suggest having it sit that long?
 
#5 ·
It will be fine as you added just a small amount of solvent to try wash away some varnish..I don't particularly use seafoam, but others have with good results.. I generally use Marvel Mystery oil because I like how it smells...:p...Either one will work or won't work...You'll know after a bit.....Jason
 
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#7 ·
Watch what you believe on Youtube...Especially, from a dude with a beat up Ranger with firewood in the back...Just saying....;) Jason
 
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#9 ·
I don't think you have priced out all the parts yet...You would probably rather trade in the car...I never put cams and lifters in these cars BTW..Jason
 
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Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta said:
I don't think you have priced out all the parts yet...You would probably rather trade in the car...I never put cams and lifters in these cars BTW..Jason
Click to expand...
Just did a price check on the parts for One Side Intake & Exhaust .....
1- HEAD COVER GASKET ................................$ 42.27
1- VARIATOR .....................................................$ 463.00
1 - INTAKE CAM .................................................$2100.00
1 - EXHAUST CAM .............................................$1550.00
16 - TAPPET FOR VALVES ........$21.90 X 16 = $ 350.00

Total= $ 4500.00 US

I think I'll try what the dude with a beat up Ranger and firewood in trunk did first. If all fails, there's always LUCAS OIL to deaden the tapping noise if I chose to sell it or trade it in for a 2017 ZO6
 
Discussion starter · #15 · (Edited)
I rigged up a mic into the engine compartment to listen of the valve noise. It happens between 2000 and 3000 rpm. THOSE INJECTORS ARE VERY LOUD AS WELL.
I filled the gas tank and added the seafoam.
I'll have to remove 300ml of engine oil from the engine before adding the Seafoam.

 

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Discussion starter · #17 ·
Jason, I was wondering if it was normal for these 4.7 engine to have such a powerful suction when the oil fill cap is removed? The suction is so strong it wants to suck the cap back on. When I removed the oil cap the idle gets rough and sounds like it wants to stall.
I also noticed lots of oil build up on the black hose from the intake to the oil disareator part # 219111 .
If I were to remove this part how would I know if it's blocked?


Image
 

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#18 ·
The crankcase is under vacuum on most cars these days so removing the cap makes a large vacuum leak...On the plus side keeping the pressure negative in the crankcase helps prevent oil leaks...The piece your talking about is just a separator...Nothing really to get blocked...Jason
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
Jason your right, there was nothing in there that could get blocked. The mesh in there was like thin 3M pads stacked on one another. I cleaned it anyway. There is a small vent outlet below the top portion of the Oil Disareator which will explain the haze of oil on the black hose. Take a look.
 

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#20 ·
Not to make light of your issues, but I could record the sound of my 6.7 Cummins and I doubt you could tell the difference between the two. Is there any change at all if you disconnect the variator oil solenoids?
 
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Jason@ Enzo`s Atlanta
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