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That is really an American thing and wasn't used on European cars really...Plus a lot of the rotors are drilled and the bits on the lathe can chip in the process...Jason
 
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Thank you..
Couldn't understand why. Given the erm...horrific price of a replacement rotor.
Was wondering if there was a problematic regrind limitation (safety?) rationale.

Typically a surfacing grinding machine is used for rotors with voids ie: one that can be used to resurface flywheels.
Surface Ground... Not lathe turned.
No bits to catch and the razor sharp slot, void and hole edges are retained.
Important that as (on a Moto at least) those sharp edges are designed to shave pad material for a constant supply of fresh braking friction surface.,
As incidental bonus the accuracy on such surfacing machines is far better than the usual Rotor Lathe

Yess it costs a bit more as shops charge per surface.
So ~100$ a rotor.. Seems cheap to me given the alternate.
 
No offense, but turning brake rotors is about dumb and straight up circa 80's...I can listen to all the positives all day long about the fresh surface etc...Your taking kinetic energy and turning it into heat...So now you are taking the thing dissipating the heat and making it less able to do it's job..Oh ok...You put 2-3 sets of pads on a rotor and then throw them out...From a business stand point...Let me paint a scenario...I turn your rotors...1500 miles later you are back with a vibration and you paid me to get them turned..Now I tell you that you need new rotors..What are you gonna say? How about WTF...I paid you to turn them..If I replace the rotor...Same scenario...I remove them and place them back in the box for warranty and you have new rotors...I'm happy and your happy...Jason
 
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I would have machined mine, however there was only about 0.5mm until they were at the minimum thickness. My machinist buddy didn’t expect any issues with turning them on his lathe due to the drilled holes. He said the cutter is held very rigid and it shouldn’t matter if there are holes.
 
I sourced rotors from AW Italian and Eurospares, but would have gone with the complete Topeuro set next time. The fronts I ordered are all cast iron, no aluminum center, but the weight difference was 3lbs. 24.5 vs 27.5 lbs.
 
I sourced rotors from AW Italian and Eurospares, but would have gone with the complete Topeuro set next time. The fronts I ordered are all cast iron, no aluminum center, but the weight difference was 3lbs. 24.5 vs 27.5 lbs.
I installed the TopEuro kit, front and back, pads/rotors. It's perfectly fine, no issues but after several hundred miles I can report so far...their pads lack the bite of my old Hawk pads. Especially when it's wet out.. :whistle:
 
A long time ago, circa 80s as Jason mentioned, it was a normal thing to turn drums and rotors. From a business standpoint, what Jason said also makes sense, if you turn a rotor and there's a problem, now its your problem. If you replace a rotor and it's a problem, you warranty it. That's all from a repair shop viewpoint and makes perfect sense. From a DIY owner's viewpoint, if a rotor is not too worn down and doesn't have any scores in it, there's no reason you can't just give it a quick sanding to break the glaze and leave it at that. I have done lots of pad replacements and don't touch the rotors at all. If money is no object and you want the VERY best from your brake job, replace pads rotors and hardware. If you are trying to do it economically, you can usually just replace the pads without doing much of anything else.
 
A long time ago, circa 80s as Jason mentioned, it was a normal thing to turn drums and rotors. From a business standpoint, what Jason said also makes sense, if you turn a rotor and there's a problem, now its your problem. If you replace a rotor and it's a problem, you warranty it. That's all from a repair shop viewpoint and makes perfect sense. From a DIY owner's viewpoint, if a rotor is not too worn down and doesn't have any scores in it, there's no reason you can't just give it a quick sanding to break the glaze and leave it at that. I have done lots of pad replacements and don't touch the rotors at all. If money is no object and you want the VERY best from your brake job, replace pads rotors and hardware. If you are trying to do it economically, you can usually just replace the pads without doing much of anything else.
Yeah, I usually never touch the rotors, no matter how bad they look. I usually wear them down until I start to get vibration during baking. This last brake job, man those rotors were ate down pretty good but had zero vibration and stopped like a champ. The only reason I changed them was because it was just absolutely time. (@ least 120k miles on them).
 
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