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Discussion Starter #1
As someone wanted to see the interior of my car-he leaned on the window as the door was open. Later that day when I stopped my car after a drive I heard a big bang as if someone had thrown a big stone. I jumped out and looked around then noticed a few more bangs by the drivers door area.

I was worried about the F1 pump/clutch as car wouldnt turn over. Called autoclub and they jump started me and then I went home. Changed battery to a new one.

Now the window goes up/down so motor is ok BUT when window goes to the top it starts clicking and banging. Got advice from auto window installer that the cogs on the regulator are out of synch so the only option is a new regulator.

Took door panel off (no airbag issues as airbag is connected to metal door and not the door card. There are hundreds of screws bolts!!!

So am going to attempt to instal a new regulator from a parted car. Window installer guessed that the glass may be riveted to the regulator. He suggested to placed the window half mast and remove glass upwards. Then remove old regulator the instal glass .

Is it plug and play? Can anyone help me to replace the regulator with suggestions? My widow goes up/down albeit with a slight hicup but clicks./bangs at the top and doesnt exhibit the window dipping function anymore.

BEWARE OF PEOPLE LEANING OR PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE WINDOW WHEN DOOR OPEN. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME!!
 

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I did this in my 02 spyder....got the part out of cali for like 50 bucks compared to the dealer price of like 900 dollars. I fought the window for a week and finally got it working correct....getting the unit in the door is easy, its the alignment of the window that can be tricky.

I suggest using the factory paint marks as starting reference, then adjust the front and back until correct... make sure the window is all the way back towards the door handle...this was the part that held me up.....how I got it back was I put all bolts in finger tight.... then i put a long wrench on the back bolt and pulled towards the door handle....it then adjusted quickly.

Hope this helps...I would post pics but I have since sold car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
window regulator replacement help please

Hi. Well I got the window regulator delivered recently and so I am making enquieries as to installation prcedure. Thewindow is not held by rivets but by bolts.
The window does not have to come out but can be wedged using rubber wedges or strong tape (take care not to damage the paintwork.

So what I intend to do is roll window down to expose where it attaches to the regulator. Mark using paint/tippex correction fluid exactly where glass attaches to regulator.

Undo the glass from regulator. Move glass up by hand and wedge it.

move regulator down , undo the nuts and unclip the wiring harness.
Replace regulator and hand tighten the nuts. Attach the wiring harness clip. Move glass down to the marks made earlier and as someone above said pull the glass into allignment.

Can anyone comment or give advice further please. The dealers in the UK are as useful as a pair of sunglasses for a man with only one ear! I rang several today.

My old regulator seems to be bent somewhat or the teeth on the cog may have sheared. Italian steel! Surprised at the weight of the regulator.

TTFN!
 

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My Driver side window regulator went bang the other day. Wouldnt go up or down after that,
so i pulled the door apart and pulled the window regulator out ( using instructions on this forum)

I figured i didnt need to replace the regulator, i just re-welded the arm back into place. see pics. had to be careful to weld the arm into correct place and side and make sure it was gripping the teeth correctly. slighly off and the window will not go up correctly.

I put the regulator back in, put plenty of grease/lube on all the regulator joints, now it works like new.

dont let the dealers fool you into replacing your regulator if it fails, it can be repaired. the factory welds are very bad on it, some presure on it causes it to fail.
 

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Window Regulator Repair Tips

I wanted to chime in with some additional tips as I went through my own window regular repair over the weekend. The local Ferrari/Maserati dealer quoted me $900 ($650 part + $250 labor) so I opted to give it my own shot.

The door panel is very easy to remove and requires about 20 minutes with a Phillips head screw driver and disconnect / removal of the door speakers.

Once the panel is removed you'll note that there is a very thin piece of Styrofoam/plastic insulating the door panel. You can peel this carefully without tearing but truthfully I don't think you need it. I saved mine for later and just taped it back into place - there is no need to attempt re-gluing it for any reason.

With all that aside inspect your window and the window regulator. If you're window regulator is blown out or off track then your window will not raise or lower at all. The toothed arm of the regulator on mine had some how popped up above actual motor gear saw the window was nothing to move the gear up and down. This created tension on the bearing that connects both of the regulator arms and blew out a small washer. At the dealer this would require replacement and I have no idea how to weld nor the tools.

The window however was actually still on track - which is separate from the regulator and you do not need to take the window off the track or you will have to readjust it later. Instead, remove the two bolts (the middle two of the four total on the bottom of the window) that connect the window regulator to the window itself. Next, push up on the bottom of the window until it is raised enough that you can grab it by hand and pull it all the way up. In a completely raised position place a C-clamp on the track to prevent the window from lowering. In this way it will stay out of your way and you will not have to adjust anything later. I noted at this point that the toothed arm had scratched some of the tint from my window - minor but certainly possible if you've driven around at all with the window fallen inside the door.

Loosen and remove the four bolts that mount the window regulator to the door (being careful not to let the assembly drop by holding it with one hand from the inside). Remove the two bolts connecting the rail from the door as well.

Removing the assembly from the door is a bit of a puzzle but move it around until you find the right angle - it it comes apart, do not worry, just remove each piece. Note that the motor has two cables attached and they're fairly short so they'll just reach the edge of the opening and you need to unclip them in order to completely remove the assembly.

Now, reconnect the two arms by first clipping the toothed arm back into the gear (about mid-way, no need to record a position or anything here), then sliding the bearing back through the hole in the other arm. Replace the spring by fitting the center into the notch in the bearing and sliding the hooked portion over the metal tab on the arm (use a screw driver to push it back if necessary).

Now, rather then replacing the blown washer by welding I chose a more mechanical approach that will not require much effort or tools:

Take two of the short screws (that mounted the assembly to the door frame) to your local hardware store and match the thread but purchase longer replacement screws - about 2+ inches (and obviously metric). You will need the following to fabricate a replacement:

* Two replacement screws (2+ inches)
* 6 matching nuts
* 2 lock washers
* A length of metal - any hardware store sells metal strips for about $8 (usually a few feet long and varying widths). I purchased a 4 ft. piece of aluminum (that was the shortest available) that was about 1 in. wide and a sturdy thickness.

I then placed the aluminum piece over the two screw holes nearest the assembly bearing and marked the two holes, cut to length (about 4.5"), and drilled holes just large enough for the screws to pass through.

I then fed the bolts through the metal strip (reverse of the original orientation to make re-installation easier) with a lock washer (on the side of the screw head), and a nut to lock the metal strip in place. I screwed another nut on and screwed the bolt back through the opposite side of the assembly. Once this was complete, I tightened the second nut to prevent any slipping. Once this is complete cut the screws if necessary so they do not stick out too far (but remember to allow enough room to pass through the door still and tighten with a washer and one additional nut.

* You'll have to cut a notch in one of the arms to allow it to rotate about 1/4" past the screw. Once you put the screws in place simply rotate the assembly on the bearing and you'll see where to cut this. It does not need to be exact and there is plenty of material so as not to worry about losing stability in the arm.

Here is the finished product:





With the assembly fixed replace back into the door panel - again this is a bit of a puzzle. I found that this was easiest with the toothed arm set about mid-way and sliding the rail (on the assembly wheel) into a position that allowed me to fit the assembly back into the door at an angle. If you need to adjust the position of the toothed arm simply reconnect the main power (the the blue connector ring) and use your window up/down switch.

Once the assembly is back in the door match the two large screws with the correct holes, replace the original washers, and tighten the nuts. Replace the remaining screws re-connect the power.

At this point turn the power on and press the window down switch until the assembly is returned to a completely lowered position. Holding the window by hand, remove the C-clamp and carefully lower the window back onto the assembly. Reconnect and tighten the two bolts to hold the window in place.

At this point do a full test. Here is how it should look (pardon the expletive, we were sending the video to someone who thought we were foolish to attempt to repair a Maserati in an effort to save $900):

(Video): Facebook

After that, put your door panel back on and enjoy! All said and done the parts cost less than $10 (versus $900 for a dealer fix) and our tests indicates this was stronger and more reliable. And, no, there is zero scraping of metal or any other friction. I suspect this solution will outlive the car - and certainly another window assembly. Tools required were a Phillips head (for the door panel), a ratchet (8mm and 10mm I believe), a Dremel, and a metal saw (easiest way to cut the aluminum strip and screws).
 

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thank you for the detailed write-up. I will be attempting this during this week. You make mention of a pdf showing the window regulator remove / replace procedure. Can someone please direct me to that?

thank you
dave
 

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Hi all
The motor on my regulator is not running, just a clunk when energized. My guess is it is the gearing between the motor and the drive wheel/cog. Is there anyway to service the motor or buy just the motor. It would need to be riveted back onto the body.
Any help re buying one, LHS 3200 GT hed out of the
Attached image, out of the car.
 

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My Driver side window regulator went bang the other day. Wouldnt go up or down after that,
so i pulled the door apart and pulled the window regulator out ( using instructions on this forum)

I figured i didnt need to replace the regulator, i just re-welded the arm back into place. see pics. had to be careful to weld the arm into correct place and side and make sure it was gripping the teeth correctly. slighly off and the window will not go up correctly.

I put the regulator back in, put plenty of grease/lube on all the regulator joints, now it works like new.

dont let the dealers fool you into replacing your regulator if it fails, it can be repaired. the factory welds are very bad on it, some presure on it causes it to fail.
Is there a certain amount of torque needed to be applied to the spring for the regulator? Or can you just weld that's star bolt back in with the spring in place the way I would assume it goes? Because this problem just happened to mine and I'm going to get it welded as well.
 

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Is there a certain amount of torque needed to be applied to the spring for the regulator? Or can you just weld that's star bolt back in with the spring in place the way I would assume it goes? Because this problem just happened to mine and I'm going to get it welded as well.
Excuse me for dragging this one to the top, but I have the same question. My star bolt just gave out.

I did one up in CAD and will be taking it to the local machine shop. Attaching print.
Maserati regulator pin v3 by leetlebeeg, on Flickr
 

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How did you act in respect of unanswered question from practical side: Is there a certain amount of torque needed to be applied to the spring for the regulator?
Did you got any answer on that or did you use just some common logic, which would be good to know
 
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