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Hey all, I just wanted to show some people what’s involved in replacing valve cover gaskets in these V8 GTs. I’ve replaced countless valve cover gaskets, these particular ones are from my neighbor’s 2012 GT. He tried to replace them himself (the gaskets were so dried that they were legitimately dripping onto the cats from the back of the cylinder head). He said when he started he figured he could replace them since he “Always changed the gaskets on his old Chevy trucks”. Needless to say these cars need a certain finesse to do the job properly. The cowl doesn’t have to be removed unless it’s a convertible because there’s an extra cross brace, but don’t get me wrong it definitely helps add some extra room. This isn’t some step by step repair procedure, and dry sump motors are a bit different, but most of my customers never get a chance to see what goes into the repair or what their cars look like without valve covers, so here are some pictures. If you guys have any questions or are looking for some repairs shoot me a pm.
 

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It doesn't look too difficult but I am aware you need to remove lots of bolts and nuts...tedious process. I heard the dealer charges $2000 for both sides....I guess they have to go by the book, probably 8 hours labor when the actual job may take 2-3 hours only...totally understand standard practice.
 

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Valve Cover gasket replacement 2005 QP Duoselect

Replaced both valve Cover gaskets on weekend together with the 8 spark plug gaskets.
Lots of stuff to remove to get access, but pretty straight forward
Good idea to replace your spark plugs as well (if required) as you have the coils off.
Couple of points .
There is a right angle vapor recovery pipe at the rear of both covers.
I found it easier to remove once cover was off and on the bench and screw back in once covers were back in and secure...yes there is room to 360 them.
the right hand side hose is a little hard to get back on
the little cylindrical vacum chambers sitting beside the outside of the covers connected to the secondary air circuit need to be removed.
the upside down allen key bolts are a little tricky to get out .
I used an allen key bit (approx 2 cm long) plugged in to a baby socket that fits inside a ring spanner ratchet.
Once they are loose they can be undone with your fingers.(you'll appreciate who ever put them on did it before the motor was put into car!)
Its easier to remove and or replace these when the bracket holding it in place has been disconnected from the valve cover.
I fitted the gaskets into the cover profile(upside down) and applied some gasket glue to secure them.
As you refit the covers with new gaskets the rear semi circle parts of the gasket can get caught up at the back of the cam shaft Bearing
Double check the gaskets are fitting securely at the back of the cover once in, especially the left side which is slightly different.
You can feel/tell if they are fitting properly with your fingers .
Ensure you reconnect the electrical wire thru the cover from the variator.
I noted the old gaskets had some seepage in a couple of places at the rear (firewall mat was oily)and were distinctly "dried out" compared to the new ones.
I had noticed two of the spark plug gaskets had small seepage into the plug cavities recently (hence the swap out)
Its a big job but doable at home with the appropriate tools and a number of cups of tea (read time out sessions)
I also ran the motor briefly to check everything was ok before I replaced all the cowls and covers.
On the right side (right hand drive car)you are best to remove some of the heater hoses that protrude into firewall...they are just press clipped on. I managed to leave the fuel lines all intact.
 

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Any advice. We are struggling to remove the front bolts on both valve covers - very little space to work in. How did you guys managed to remove those front ones
 

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Hopefully some of the information I will post here, will help the most recent updates made, regarding valve cover gaskets, and what to know / be aware of.

I didn't have to drain the coolant from the Maserati, to replace the valve covers, or with any of the disassembly I did, to perform this job.
When I purchased the vehicle, the valve covers had some knicks, and paint missing from the covers, so upon removing the valve covers, I decided it was a good time to powder-coat them red, since the valve cover gaskets needed replacement anyway.

The valve cover gaskets on these vehicles seem to fail at the back where the half circles are located on each gasket. You will know the gasket(s) are faulty around the half circle location at the back of each valve cover, if a little bit of oil is escaping, and landing on the headers, which causes some oil vapor, or smell, as this would be where the valve cover gasket would leak a bit, if not tightly sealed, or old.

To answer another question, I used a gasket cover sealer (The Right Stuff), but this isn't absolutely necessary. However, I wanted peace-of-mind that no further leaks would occur, so I added this to the gaskets, when I installed new gaskets over the valves.

The bolts on the valve covers can be tricky to remove/install, and for some of the areas, I used a tiny ratchet tool I had, with the right bit, to remove each bolt. My recommendation would be to get a micro-tool set with a ratchet, with bits, to get to the tight and low clearance areas, for some of the bolts, as this is what I used, and couldn't have gotten them out any other way.

As posted previously above, there is a lot of disassembly, wires, hoses, etc. that need to be removed, and installed again, so keep track of how many things need to be put back, or you could run into issues, or see codes thrown. I nearly forgot to install the small tube that runs on the bottom of the center manifold cover, but luckily marked each removed hose, wire, etc. with bright green painters tape, to know that the particular connection needs to be reconnected, and upon reconnecting things, I would remove the bright green tape, to ensure that everything was connected upon completion of the valve cover gasket job.

Some have stated that this is an 8-hour job, or possibly a weekend. I took my time, and did extra tasks (powder-coated the valve covers, and painted the manifold), so the entire process, taken very slowly, took me a few nights when I had free time. I wouldn't rush this job, or you're going to get frustrated, or lose track of what needs to be put back together again. Also, it is a good idea to replace spark plugs at this time, as the windshield wiper area/assembly needs to be removed to gain access to the back of the valve covers, for removal/installation, and the back-most spark plugs are hardest to get to, with everything on.

Hopefully this information helps. I will try to post to any additional questions noted, but otherwise, it is fairly straight-forward procedure, but there is a lot involved to ensure it is all done correctly.

129085
129086
 

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Hi there,
how did you clean the valve covers? what type of paint (model / paint #) did you use? 1 or 2 coats?

thanks
David
 

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Hey David,

To answer your questions, I initially cleaned the valve covers with some rubbing alcohol and some throw-away rags, to get it as clean as I could, for the powder coating shop I use. I also made sure to remove any gaskets, and items that weren't metal, as the powder coating will only stick to metal, when the shop does the work.

The place I use also includes sand-blasting, so that process is really what answers your question in full, and fully ensures that the valve covers are cleaned down to the metal, with no grease, debris, etc.

No paint on the valve covers, as noted. Anything done in red or black on my GT MC has been powder coated by the shop I use, and I think to date there is a large laundry list of powder coated items they have done for me on my Maserati, to include my brake calipers, parts of the frame/sub-frame, engine bay items, rims, and other things.

I prefer powder coating over painting as its a more durable solution, and still looks amazing. See if you can look for a shop near you, that powder coats, as I believe it to be a more superior option, to painting, anything, on the Maserati.

Let me know if you have any other questions, or comments.
 

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I just had my rims done, so i'll go see if that shop can do this! was there a specific "Red" color or coding# to match stock?
Are there any special tools I need to buy? I currently own all standard sockets for 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 drive > metric from 5mm > 26mm, and I also have a few angle elbow for each socket wrench. I also have a plastic trim tool I can use to "pry" the valve covers. Just thinking ahead so I don't get "Stuck" and have to buy/order tools that I don't already have!! I've been working on cars for 20yrs so I own most stuff needed for most basic jobs. I've owned Masi for 6yrs and have done all the service myself (except for ball joint / bushings / a-arms).

thanks!
David
 

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I'm tackling this job this weekend as I have the little bit of leakage resulting in some oil burn off. I bought the NGK plugs and am comfortable checking the gapping, but I'm having trouble finding the recommended gap. Hoping you guys can assist with what worked for you.

Thanks,
Jake
 

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No idea about the gap, but IMO, you bought the best spark plugs available, regardless of price ! I have them in all my cars and could not be more pleased with the results and the longevity of NGK ( Iridium) , vs. all the OEM plugs my Porsches and Mercedeses had ( which I presume were Bosch ) . Curious though, did you order ones which are set neutral, or are they one or more steps cold ?
 
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Don't gap them..They are fine wire plugs and come pre-gapped....Just install them...Put some kind of grease or anti-seize on the threads...Just a touch...Jason
 

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I just bought the set from Formula dynamics (good for Masi/Ferrari) 100k miles. They said they come pre-gapped and you don't need any grease - just install and do not over torque
 

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Ah, if it’s from FD, they know precisely what the GTs needs, sounds good. Btw, what brand are the OE plugs on our cars ? Ferrari uses a few Deso components I hear , could they be Denso ?
 

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I'll let you know next week after I pull them out! ... they've been great so far, I just hit 101,500 miles on Masi. Got her 6yrs ago with 26k miles. Car is running as good (if not better) than when I bought her in 2014. The book said 100k miles so I'm doing this now as preventative maintenance since I have to do the valve covers (gaskets are both shot ~ i'm practically smoking down the road!) the oil drip is no joke from the rear of the heads!!!!
 
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You don't have to grease them, but you maybe the next one removing them....To each his own...The OE plugs are NGK...They do use Denso alternators...Ferrari and Maserati both...Jason
 

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I bought all of the stuff from Scuderia. The spark plugs were listed as the OEM part. Maserati 239242
 
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