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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello gentlemen,

My weird obsession with these cars….stumbled across the Trofeo specs on “YouTube”

Engine: Ferrari F136 / 90° V8 NA /4244 cc / 258.8 cu in Power:
420 hp / 312.9 kw
Torque: +450 nm / 331.7 ft lb
Weight: 1420 kg / 3130.5 lbs
0-100 kmh (62 mph): 4,0s

While I anxiously await my car to get out of the shop…couldn’t help but notice the weight reduction here….trying to understand why or where all the weight is in these cars…the hood ways a ton…..

Kindly,
Stephen
 

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Hey Stephen, good of you to post these specs. our cars are not the lightest, but if you will note, the torque spec is the same as stock. Since HP is Torque x RPM / 5250, the only way to more HP is more torque, or same torque at higher rpm.
I think most tunes for our cars only up the red line to get more hp.
And yes, I think that the intake manifold is the limiting factor in how much power an F136R will make.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Oishi,

Yes sir, completely agree. My passion for this marque is great…I’m wanting to get to that 420-425 crank HP mark and with my exhaust mods and tune…I might just be there.

According to Formula Dynamics and the dyno tune…power comes in earlier (3500 RPMs) and continues to build more all the way up to 7,000 rpm…..I think it’s pointless to rev the engine beyond that. My goal is to make this a darn good Grand Tourer that doesn’t stutter off the line and has good,clean normally aspirated power. As you very well know these engines are a gem…just trying to enjoy it to the fullest.

Kindly,
Stephen
 
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On the weight deal...Start with the seats...They weigh a ton with all the motors etc...Sound deadening also starts to add up...That is race car though and you have a street car...Two totally different purposes and trying to turn a street car into a semi race car can make for one miserable car to drive daily so keep that in mind...Seen it before...Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Jason,

Yes sir, was hoping either you or someone else would bring that up…great point. I’ve been thinking about taking out the back seats and the A/C unit….not really concerned about the harsh ride…I told the Technician to drop the car as low as he could. Looking strongly at the big brake kit as I am due for some new claws.

I’m just curious about testing the boundaries of this car as safely as possible.

Great points, appreciate the feedback.

Kindly,
Stephen
 

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I had a chance to look at one of these cars in Sydney a little while ago. They have CF door cards, no speaker, one seat and a CF fuel cell, there are no power windows, the glass is replaced with Lexan, no AC, no airbags, no sound deadening, I think the Trofeo rims are forged, no mufflers, no resonators, different control arms, fixed rate suspension, CF hood, and all that is just the obvious stuff. That would easily be more than 150kg.

I'd love to do all the CF panels, but even then it would be like $20 000-$30 000AUD as copies, I wouldn't be able to sell enough to justify it.

As for the engine, it doesn't have a MAF so is running an Alpha-N tune which is just a different method of calculating air flow. I'd guess most of the power change comes from timing advance and raising the RPM would increase peak power.
 

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Plastics 4 Performance make a complete polycarbonate window replacement set for the 4200 (MASERATI - 4200 GT - Polycarbonate window kit). This is a great way to reduce weight. I have only purchased and installed the rear window at present. This was a pretty simple change that any auto glass professional can perform.

I have not installed the front or door windows as I was concerned by the amount of scratching that may occur (even though there is a scratch resistant option). The rear side side windows are a little tricky as p4p only supply the polycarbonate and not the rubber surrounds, which would need to be cannibalised from the oem windows somehow or some other fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Plastics 4 Performance make a complete polycarbonate window replacement set for the 4200 (MASERATI - 4200 GT - Polycarbonate window kit). This is a great way to reduce weight. I have only purchased and installed the rear window at present. This was a pretty simple change that any auto glass professional can perform.

I have not installed the front or door windows as I was concerned by the amount of scratching that may occur (even though there is a scratch resistant option). The rear side side windows are a little tricky as p4p only supply the polycarbonate and not the rubber surrounds, which would need to be cannibalised from the oem windows somehow or some other fix.
Good day,

Those rear side windows are a nightmare….and took weeks to get OEM parts and had to be “broken” to even get them out if I recall. May look into that at some point….first step might be to remove the rear seats and fin an attractive way to cover up all the exposed, inner workings of the car.

Kindly,
Stephen
 

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Thanks for the tip about the side windows. I have been considering how these could be swapped with plexiglass, but the benefit is probably marginal for the amount of effort required.

My GS is completely stripped out and there is no going back now. Removing the rear seats is a good first step. It is easy to do (and put back if required) and does have a reasonable weight saving. But agree there is a big weight saving by changing the front seats to race seats. Many people on the forum have done this, but there are several issues to resolve.
 
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Recognize when you start doing plastic windows to the car you are basically building a race car and the value of the car will never be the same...If you are gonna build a race car then go balls out and build a race car...No door panels...Plasma cut the inside the doors, A cable to open them, no headliner, etc..Very black and white...There is a race car and a street car...They don't have that much in common honestly..Jason
 

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Great advice Jason. My car is used for motorsport only so it has a safety cage, race seats, no trim etc. Agree going for polycarbonate windows is only for race purposes. My advice was only intended to assist if there were forum members who were planning to go down a similar path to me (or maybe just interested in what is out there).
 
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I think for a "hot" street 4200 this is what I would want...DBW and ECU tune...Secondary CAT delete with an x-pipe...Sticky set of tires..Michelin Sport Pilots...The Grandsport cars are fairly well dialed in suspension wise, but you could do a little there with bars and some springs...Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think for a "hot" street 4200 this is what I would want...DBW and ECU tune...Secondary CAT delete with an x-pipe...Sticky set of tires..Michelin Sport Pilots...The Grandsport cars are fairly well dialed in suspension wise, but you could do a little there with bars and some springs...Jason
Thank you Jason, I should have just asked you this question in the beginning and saved a lot of time lol.

As always….appreciate your input…thank you.

Kindly,
Stephen
 

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The breaks have been upgraded to a Brembo big break kit both front and rear. They are designed for motor sport and can take the extremes that occur (see Brembo® - GT-S Series Cross Drilled 2-Piece Rotor Big Brake Kit). However, they do hit the budget pretty hard.

I originally installed the FD front big break kit, but these breaks have a special pad design peculiar to the FD front big breaks. Consequently, replacement pads can only be purchased from FD (as far as I know) with very limited pad compounds. I wanted to use different compounds (and upgrade the rears) so changed to the Brembos.

However, I think for general track day use I would recommend using the OEM brakes but upgrading to race pads like the Pagid RSL29 (RSL 29 - PAGID Racing). These give excellent performance on the track, but are also work reasonably well at cold temperatures around town with not much squeaking.
 

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