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He has a PM'd several times in the past, but we weren't able to get it fixed via the internet...Sometimes you gotta see stuff to fix it...It is very difficult when several people have had their hands all over it..God knows what they did....Jason
Well the first thing that doesn't sound right, is that if you're getting a gearbox light, you definitely should have gearbox codes. The codes are what sets off the light.

The second thing, is that is quite the array of parts to be changed with no results from the scan tools. Just changing things blindly doesn't seem right, there should be a diagnostic reason some parts were selected to be replaced.

The thing that shows up to me is that you had the clutch replaced, and everything was fine for a while, and then the PIS was set and now it won't move. It could be as simple as the PIS being set too tight and the car stalling out. Unfortunately for you, you either need to get a competent mechanic, or a scantool yourself and start giving us specific readouts. A working scantool will let you engage each gear individually, measure the clutch position while its moving and engaging, measure system pressure, check the throttle position and torque requests so you can make sure the ECU/TCU are talking to each other etc. So you can definitely work out what isn't working, but you either need to take a DIY interest or fly someone over who can fix it. Craig Waterman is still active, though hard to reach, and @[email protected] Enzo`s Atlanta seems to have some old hat experience.
Hello

Yes i have contacted Jason in the past and he was very helpfull in trying to help me figure it out.

I am in Vegas and Maserati wants 10k just to pull the car into there shop as a spending limit and i feel that it will cost me that even tho i purchased and installed all the parts that points to the problem.

Yes i did replace items that are inexpensive and easy just to try and solve the problem but did not work.
I have had a tech that worked on these cars for years and cant figure it out.

I do everything myself as i lived in a garage and am a certified Industrial mechanic.

The PIS was correct when hooked up to Leo scanner and F1 pump pressure was at 43 Bar.

I'm just not too sure that the tech was an expert at using the scanner which was just updated.

I am willing to fly someone to Vegas and set them up in a hotel and pay them to fix at my shop as long as i can get the car fixed.

Any Takers??
 

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Well, the pump pressure is meant to cycle between 40-50bar. Over pressure will open the relief valve at 90bar, and I think under pressure will shut the engine off at 35bar (I need to look that up, I can't recall it off hand). If your pressure is only getting up to 43bar that could be a problem.

Anyway, I don't think it would be cost effective to fly me from Australia...

If you're a mechanic, you could get the launch tool I linked above, and start doing all the scans and tests yourself. I'd be happy to talk you through it.
 
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Craig, is gonna be your best bet for some thing like that as far as flying to you...If you want to put it on a transport than I'm sure I can fix it...Currently, I'm covered up with cars though...J
 

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Have you tried Formula Dynamics. They are near Vegas, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thank you.

I quote the wrong post. My question was related to the post of @SwissGSpyder because the obd tool he posted is 1/10 of the price.



Do you know if the bleeding of the CC works i.e.? Or checking the PIS with this software?

Does anybody know or can confirm that this diagnose-tool will do a cc bleeding and PIS beside the standard diagnose of the cc and in general the 4200?

I don´t want to buy a pig in a poke.
 

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Have you tried Formula Dynamics. They are near Vegas, correct?
They did look at the car when it was at a shop in Vegas. The car don’t have DBW so they didn’t have time to check anything else. I have a scanner now and will check it. I think it has to do with the hydraulic pressure needed as mine is at 43 bar and may have to be closer to 48 bar. Hopefully the scanner will tell me what’s wrong. I will post what I find.
 

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Maserati Quattroporte 4 Evolutione V8 silver/black advanced engine management 415 HP
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133432
133433

Maybe this is your problem
This is the actuator dismantled.The 3 pieces in the first picture are the pin for the hole you can see.It let the gear selector make his rotation move to select the gear level 1-2
3-4 5-6 , for example.
You can remove the actuator and let the tester engage every gear.
You can see the halfround gear selector move .
If it will not do this properly , the actuator is gone , but you can fix it by replacing the pin .
We are doing it last week in our shop .
Loosen and taking away the actuator is the only way to find out .
We have a Texa tester , and you will not find out the failure, becose it’s mechanical.
You will have many troublecodes , even for parts you have changed.

Give it a try .

Best Frank
 

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View attachment 133432 View attachment 133433
Maybe this is your problem
This is the actuator dismantled.The 3 pieces in the first picture are the pin for the hole you can see.It let the gear selector make his rotation move to select the gear level 1-2
3-4 5-6 , for example.
You can remove the actuator and let the tester engage every gear.
You can see the halfround gear selector move .
If it will not do this properly , the actuator is gone , but you can fix it by replacing the pin .
We are doing it last week in our shop .
Loosen and taking away the actuator is the only way to find out .
We have a Texa tester , and you will not find out the failure, becose it’s mechanical.
You will have many troublecodes , even for parts you have changed.



Give it a try .

Best Frank
Thanks for the info.

On mine tho i can hear the engagement of all the gears and throw shift learning i have engagement.
would i still have engagement if that pin is broken?

Thanks
 

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Maserati Quattroporte 4 Evolutione V8 silver/black advanced engine management 415 HP
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The car we have last week in our shop, the tester read after several tries codes for broken shift select sensors.
Changed them , make the self learning procedure, successfull, try to engage a gear to a testdrive , and get an instant failure.
Failure was the same as before.
And we decided to take a look at the actuator.
What i try to say is ,this is a mechanical failure and the electronic can say everything is fine , but it is not .
You must look with your own eyes.
 

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The car we have last week in our shop, the tester read after several tries codes for broken shift select sensors.
Changed them , make the self learning procedure, successfull, try to engage a gear to a testdrive , and get an instant failure.
Failure was the same as before.
And we decided to take a look at the actuator.
What i try to say is ,this is a mechanical failure and the electronic can say everything is fine , but it is not .
You must look with your own eyes.
Got it

Thanks for the info.

i have to do a few more test and will post what i find.

really appreciate your info.

Thanks
 

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Got it

Thanks for the info.

i have to do a few more test and will post what i find.

really appreciate your info.

Thanks
hello

Thanks again for your input on my car issues.

after a few more test i am certain that i have the same problem.

with the pin being broken the actuator does not rotate to the upper slot for first gear which causes the spool to shuttle accross to the gear on the lower end which is 3rd or 4rd and just like a 3 peddle car you cant start off in that gear as it will stall.

I jacked up the back of the car to get the wheels off the ground where i would not need as much torque and tried it and the wheels were turning on high rev because i am trying to start off in a high gear.

this makes the most sense because it will only try to move on high rev and then stall.(trying to start in 3rd or 4th).

i have not taken the actuator off yet but i am 100% certain that you are correct on this one.

I will have it taken out next week and upload some pictures.

Thanks for your input on this.

Do you happen to know if i can buy the pin or will i have to make one?
is it 5mm x 25mm pin size?

Thanks
 

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see reply below
I think you need to address one thing at a time, once your clutch sensor issues is resolved I'll help you properly diagnose a failure of the gear selector. There are a number of diagnostic tests, you shouldn't need to take it off the car to work out it is the problem.

You can also use the Launch to force selection of any gear while the car is off, so you can select 5th, then go to 2nd. If the pin is broken you'll get errors for the position sensors as it won't be locating within the predefined position table.
 

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I think you need to address one thing at a time, once your clutch sensor issues is resolved I'll help you properly diagnose a failure of the gear selector. There are a number of diagnostic tests, you shouldn't need to take it off the car to work out it is the problem.

You can also use the Launch to force selection of any gear while the car is off, so you can select 5th, then go to 2nd. If the pin is broken you'll get errors for the position sensors as it won't be locating within the predefined position table.
I agree with what your saying.
i have switched out the sensor and have same issue.

i have gone through almost everything in the car and this makes the most sense.

Shift learning works but if the actuator is not rotating to selector to the proper level to select the proper gear its calling for then it stays at home elevation and shuttles back and forth.

Also the computer system in the car thinks its going through the gears on the shift learning but the mechanical failure has no way to confirm what gear its in inside the gearbox as it goes by the Potentiometer inside the actuator. its states the different gears through the shift learn but actually its just shuttling back and forth in the 3-4 position.


Once i take it apart next week i will send pictures of the findings.

Thanks
 

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If it is still throwing that same code, chasing another rabbit won't help. Lets say the pin is broken as well, you'll definitely find it easier to test and resolve that if your F1 sensor code is cleared.

If you've replaced the sensor but are still having unreliable position results there are two possible causes:

1- The magnet in the thrust bearing is installed backwards
2- The wiring in to the sensor is faulty

133459


The sensors on the actuator monitor the location of the gear engagement finger, if that pin is broken the sensors will throw a fault. If you dismantle the actuator you will need a special centring tool to reassemble it.

133460


If I were you I would persist with the F1 code until it is eliminated, and then if you have other issues I will help you with those as well.

Did you take the photos when you did the job? It may be possible to see if there is an issue with the magnet installation from that.

I have all the wiring diagrams you need to trace and test that position sensor wiring as well.
 
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Him and I went through the magnet thing, but without seeing the the thing it was difficult...Jason
 

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I think you need to address one thing at a time, once your clutch sensor issues is resolved I'll help you properly diagnose a failure of the gear selector. There are a number of diagnostic tests, you shouldn't need to take it off the car to work out it is the problem.

You can also use the Launch to force selection of any gear while the car is off, so you can select 5th, then go to 2nd. If the pin is broken you'll get errors for the position sensors as it won't be locating within the predefined position table.
If it is still throwing that same code, chasing another rabbit won't help. Lets say the pin is broken as well, you'll definitely find it easier to test and resolve that if your F1 sensor code is cleared.

If you've replaced the sensor but are still having unreliable position results there are two possible causes:

1- The magnet in the thrust bearing is installed backwards
2- The wiring in to the sensor is faulty

View attachment 133459

The sensors on the actuator monitor the location of the gear engagement finger, if that pin is broken the sensors will throw a fault. If you dismantle the actuator you will need a special centring tool to reassemble it.

View attachment 133460

If I were you I would persist with the F1 code until it is eliminated, and then if you have other issues I will help you with those as well.

Did you take the photos when you did the job? It may be possible to see if there is an issue with the magnet installation from that.

I have all the wiring diagrams you need to trace and test that position sensor wiring as well.
hello

im not certain we are talking the same pin.
please see picture below on the pin i am talking about.
i have see a number of post on this pin breaking inside the actuator mounted to the side of the gearbox.
i believe this is the same problem i have .
will find out next week.
133461
 

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If it is still throwing that same code, chasing another rabbit won't help. Lets say the pin is broken as well, you'll definitely find it easier to test and resolve that if your F1 sensor code is cleared.

If you've replaced the sensor but are still having unreliable position results there are two possible causes:

1- The magnet in the thrust bearing is installed backwards
2- The wiring in to the sensor is faulty

View attachment 133459

The sensors on the actuator monitor the location of the gear engagement finger, if that pin is broken the sensors will throw a fault. If you dismantle the actuator you will need a special centring tool to reassemble it.

View attachment 133460

If I were you I would persist with the F1 code until it is eliminated, and then if you have other issues I will help you with those as well.

Did you take the photos when you did the job? It may be possible to see if there is an issue with the magnet installation from that.

I have all the wiring diagrams you need to trace and test that position sensor wiring as well.
i did the test of jacking up the back of the car and cleared all code so i could have a fresh start.

started the car and shifted into first on the indicator which i believe was 3rd or 4th gear as it wont get to the upper position to hit first with the pin broken.

started to accelerate and motor was bogging and when i got to about 3000 rpm the wheels began to turn.

so this is telling me that i am starting off in a high gear as if i was trying to start off in 3rd or 4th gear on a 3 peddle car which 99% of the time it would stall.

i will take lots of pictures next week when its taken apart.

Thanks
 

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Since the car is throwing codes for the F1 sensor, and you've read off the launch that the TCU can't resolve the thickness of the clutch, that really just sounds like a symptom for an unreliable signal from the F1 sensor to the TCU.

Regardless of what gear the car is in, if the TCU can't resolve the clutch position it will struggle to take off and the RPM for engagement will be all over the place. If you had the wheels in the air and wanted to get the wheels spinning in 6th in any car it would be easy as there is relatively no inertia to overcome.

The symptoms you're describing still align with the diagnostics you've pulled from the TCU.
 

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Him and I went through the magnet thing, but without seeing the the thing it was difficult...Jason
He has gotten a Launch and the code he gets every time he tries to move the car is P1710

133462


Further confirming that the issue is with the F1 sensor or wiring is that the clutch wear detected and the NCCP change wildly every time he scans them. And as I said above, the symptoms of poor engagement off the ground match with the TCU being unable to resolve the clutch position. Apparently he has cut an access hole in the bell housing which allows him to change the F1 sensor without dismantling the car, so he should be able to get a clear photo of the magnet if he takes the F1 sensor out of the way. I reckon there are pretty good odds at this point that it is installed incorrectly.

The car is successfully completing self-learning so I doubt very much there is an issue with the actuator. Regardless, I'd be trying to address the known fault first before bothering with the actuator.
 
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