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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know if there is a difference between the US suspension vs. the Euro suspension. I thought I read something about the US being raised for auto reg reasons. The reason I ask is that the wheel well gaps look way too tall. It looks funny. I just started the lowering exercise and got the rears done. I lowered it about an inch with 15 turns on the rear spring adjusters. I truly feel like the rear feels much more compliant and the suspension is now working as designed. I can't wait to do the fronts. As I ride it now, I can say that I feel the car was "oversprung" with too much pre-load.

What I'm really wondering is: are the US models cranked with pre-load to raise the height and was the car really engineered to be an inch or so lower with the standard components. I know of the aftermarket springs, I'm doing some R&D with stock components right now.

This is one of my 1st steps to better ride quality and so far, I think it is making a difference and going in the right direction.

Give me your feedback
Thanks
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radgts3bk - 05 Spyder GT, triple black 12k mi.
 

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i got my dealer to lower it 3/4" all around, and their comment was 'it didn't look lowered'; so eventually it was lowered 1". i waited for the suspension to settle (...) and now with a proper alignment the steering and handling is magical.

the regular suspension setting now feels like sport, and sport feels 20% stiffer/harsher..
 

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My dealer said that they would not lower the car while under warranty. Sounds like you have a more willing dealer?
 

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My dealer said that they would not lower the car while under warranty. Sounds like you have a more willing dealer?
tell them that's BS...mine said it would cost $1100 to lower though I had it done elsewhere...
 

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US suspension vs. the Euro suspension.

I know Euro springs are stiffer than the US, not sure about difference in length, I believe though they are the same.

See also seperate thread elsewhere: GranSport Lowered and Corner-Weighted
 

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Discussion Starter #6
European Owners - Can we get a measurement

of the stock ride height from the top or the rim to the wheel well! Best compare for me would be a 2005 Spyder owner. US Owners, I'm curious of the same measurement. My height is 5.15" or 130mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just read the corner weighting thread and...

I am now really curious about the ride height of each wheel. I should have been more thorough before lowering the rears last weekend. I did not capture the before specs. I accuratly lowered the rears by 15 turns. My ride height specs right now are the following

Driver Side Front (DF) = 132mm or 5.2in
DR= 120mm or 4.72in
PF= 132mm or 5.2in
PR=102mm or 4 in.

It would be wonderful if we could get the factory spec. Euro and US or at least compare notes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Full gas tank makes a diff...

My previous readings were with a virtualy empty tank. Right now with a full tank, my numbers sit at:

(DF) = 130
(DR) = 110
(PF) = 130
(PR) = 95

Looks like 7-10 mm diff in height with a full vs. empty gas tank
The full tank is 26gal * 6.3lbs per gallon or 160 lbs

Anyone out there have any stock ride height numbers?
 

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I guess another 7-10mm lower with 160 lbs of you as well?

My USA 2006 GS Spyder (19" rims) shows 120mm rim-to-wheelwell on both fronts, 125mm RR, 130mm LR with 1/2 tank of fuel and no driver or passenger.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I guess another 7-10mm lower with 160 lbs of you as well?

My USA 2006 GS Spyder (19" rims) shows 120mm rim-to-wheelwell on both fronts, 125mm RR, 130mm LR with 1/2 tank of fuel and no driver or passenger.
Thanks for the spec. I figure your 19's are 12mm taller on each side (with lower profile tires) to make the inch difference. So your 120 would equal my 132 in the fronts. If I applied the same formula to the rears, then the stock ride hight of my rears would have been 137 RR and 142 LR.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Driver impact on ride height

I guess another 7-10mm lower with 160 lbs of you as well?

My USA 2006 GS Spyder (19" rims) shows 120mm rim-to-wheelwell on both fronts, 125mm RR, 130mm LR with 1/2 tank of fuel and no driver or passenger.
Good estimate. My 230lb impacted the ride height as follows
DF= -7mm
DR = -14mm
PF = 0
PR = -8mm

I assume my target is matched ride height on driver and passenger side. Im off about 6mm or 1/4" in the rears under load. I'll be lowering the fronts this weekend. my target now is 15 turns which matches my rears to keep the engineered front/rear angle. Then maybe some fine tuning.

Thanks for your time
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radgts3bk - 05 Spyder GT, Triple Black, 12kmi
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Lowered the rears this weekend...

I Meant to say (LOWERED THE FRONTS THIS WEEKEND...) in the subject line

15 turns to match the rears. So far I'm very satisfied. The car looks so much nicer, sportier at the lowered height. It looks like it should. Out of the box, it looks jacked up with the circle ratio's of the wheel wells un-matched to the wheel and tire roundness. Front and rear views are both enhanced with the body height looking like a fine european sports car (which it is, it just looked like more of a muscle car from the rear and a lux-o-sport from the front.

The ride is more compliant with less rebound shimmy that I was used to. The suspension seems to work more correctly than stock sports car "ka-thump" over road seams with little over-reaction. Normal mode is more Jaguar like and sport seems to be firm without as much square edge harshness. Handeling is improved as it turns more predictably and progressivly rather than the over-progressive turn-in that I remember. Anyway, these are just 1st impressions. It is raining here in CO for the next few days, so my next run will be in a day or so.

New ride height numbers (fuel 7/8th full) (240lb driver)
Without Driver
DF=110
PF=105
DR=98
PR=96

With Driver
DF=106
PF=105
DR=83
PR=91

I will drive it as is at least until I get down to 5/8th tank of gas. Then I may fine tune it. I wish I knew what my goal quadrant height ratio's were supposed to be. All I can think of is even under normal load (5/8th tank + driver). But this is just a swag. I'm interested in opinions for targets...

Remember... we are the tuners on these cars with our trial and error. There are too few around to support any "Industry Standard". So cooperative info disclosure and discussion are the only way. This is my motivation to share my work in progress.
Thanks
radgts3bk - 05 Spyder GT, Triple Black, 12k mi. Recently lowered 15 turns.
 

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Do you need to compress the spring before turning the nut?

I was thinking of doing the same thing to my car but my I only have experience in replacing the springs in struts in my old BMW and have not tried anything like this before. I just do not want to screw it up.


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes... $50 Spring compressor is what I used...

Got it at Pep Boys. It states it should only be used for Struts and not coil overs. It worked great. I think the warning was mostly targeted at removing the springs, which is not needed. It took about 1.5 to 2.5 hours per corner in my garage. The 1st time doing a back or front is more time consuming as all mechanical things are the 1st time. I compressed the springs, broke the bottom ring free with a hammer and a punch, backed down the bottom spring collar with some misc tools (other threads on this board identify the collar tools, I used a oil filter wrench for the backs and then found a universal tool from Snap-On. However, I was able to spin the collar by hand once it broke free from th initial tension). Backed the collar down by 15 full turns. Tightened the lower collar and released the spring compressor.

Let me know if you need more specific info or pics.
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radgts3bk - 05 Spyder GT. Triple Black, 12k mi - lowered 15 turns
 

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I might do it this weekend

I need to replace a fog lamp/blinker assembly so I figured that while one corner of the car is apart I may as well do the other 3. Better detail or pics would be greatly appreciated. I am not proud. I just do not want to screw it up.

thanks
 

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can this be done on the non skyhook cars as well? also M! what did you set your alignment specs at?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I didn't take pics as I was doing this...

I need to replace a fog lamp/blinker assembly so I figured that while one corner of the car is apart I may as well do the other 3. Better detail or pics would be greatly appreciated. I am not proud. I just do not want to screw it up.

thanks
I will try to get you some more info prior to the weekend.
 
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