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Discussion Starter #21
Oooh... please let me know how much and quality of his work. I'm very interested. Wiring is not a strong suit of mine. I can do it, but would rather not.
Thank you!
JIM
 

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Discussion Starter #22
9/12/2014:
Found massive vacuum leaks at two places... just above check valve on left side of engine compartment and large leak/break at main hose on plenum connection. Fixed with new hoses, removing un-needed circuits. Started the car and now I can actually hear the turbos spool up and down while revving! So cooool!!!

Engine is still running way too rich and also backfires lightly on revs. The carb rebuild kit came in yesterday. I just took the plenum off, removed carb, and disassembled the carb. It's currently sitting in carb dip cleaner.
One problem... while disassembling, a very tiny brass jet-looking piece fell out, and I have no idea where it came from, or if others came out too. I found one on the floor when it hit my foot. I'm very worried that without this piece installed, the engine will not run correctly.
I'll try to post a picture of the piece to see if anyone has ideas as to where it goes.

Oh, I also found the source of my steering flop. The steering rack bushing (plastic) is broken. It's located near the pedals. I ordered the upgraded replacement piece (metal) from Auto-Italia.

Also found a broken hose connector/port on the turbo solenoid valve. I'll need to get another. Not sure what role it plays... but just want to be safe.

Gotta say... Biturbos are not nearly as difficult to work on as some newer cars I've owned. Pretty simple actually.
(LOL, I say that now...)

JIM
 

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Discussion Starter #23
It's legal!!!!

9/13/2014:
Carb rebuild complete! I found where the little jet goes... all good.
Cleaned up the plenum with a wire brush on a die grinder. All shiny now.
I now understand why the car has been running rich... The previous mechanic probably didn't notice the giant vacuum leaks and tried to compensate for the lean running by making the carb more rich. The mixture adjusters were out by approx 4.5 turns. Should be about 2-2.5. I adjusted it and here's what it sounded like!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgJOUx7SV7k

I also drained and refilled the transmission oil. It was way low.

So, now for the best news!
It's LEGAL!!! :Tombo::autofahrer::laugh::cheers::deal:
I drove it to DMV (with my Dad following behind me), had the VIN inspection done, and after an hour and 45 mins. got it titled and registered with Classic Car plates!
... and it overheated when I got there. :thumbsdown:

After it cooled down I drove it back, trying to take the highway. Right when I started to get to highway speed it lost power, like ignition shut off, then back on again. I quickly got off and back onto surface streets again. Made it home, but the coolant light was on for about 5 minutes.

Now that it's cooled down for a few hours I checked the coolant reservoir and it's empty!
I filled it the other day, but failed to let the thermostat open to circulate it.
One thing I'm learning is to NOT trust anything existing on this car (fluid levels, tightness of bolts, etc...).

More to come! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
9/17/2014:
I installed the new steering column bushing today. Took about 45 minutes. After removing the steering column coupler from the shaft, and the bracket from the firewall, I had to enlarge the bore on the bracket and add two dogear notches for the updated bushing. This was very simple with an air die grinder with a cone-shaped grinding stone (for the bore) and a drill bit and file for the notches. Went back together easily. Only messup on my part was not marking the position of the shaft relative to the knuckle. Now the steering wheel if off center. Easy fix, but dang it...
I test drove the car and it was MUCH better.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
9/19/2014:
Distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs (NGKs) and ignition pick-up arrived in the mail, along with a used Turbo Solenoid.
Also, I bought replacement air cleaners and crankcase vent filters to get rid of the stock air box, which was annoying the heck out of me due to having to remove it every time I wanted to do anything behind the plenum.


I spent a couple hours and installed everything.

9/20/2014:
Started the car.
The choke was stuck (cable bent) so I couldn't activate it.
The car started... on it's own. No choke, no pumping of gas, nada... and it idled at 1000.
OMG.

So, I drove it.
It was better... but still not fixed. It drops power, like a rev limiter when trying to get up to higher speeds.
I bypassed the ignition cut-off relay. Test drove... still died.
Going to try the knock sensor next.

I can see why these cars are frustrating to many people who have tried to restore them.

Oh, can anyone tell me what a good/normal compression reading would be on these engines? I got approx. 100 psi on all 6.
I'm worried that I'm just restoring a worn out engine.................
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thank you!
I joined Zentrum fairly recently. Funny, I tried to search for "Compression" and it still did not pull up that thread.

I don't really like the interface/format of the Yahoo groups. But, the info there is definitely valuable!

I posted a reply to the thread for further clarification.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Here are the pics of my intake setup.
They are motorcycle cone-style air filters.
You can see the crankcase vent filters below the air filter.

[/URL][/IMG]
 

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Discussion Starter #31
9/28/2014:
Installed new ignition control module, MSD spark plug wires, fuel hose heat wrap, and new hoses for the turbo solenoid...Still runs funny.

Removed the catalytic converter to check for clogged/burnt internals... Found the internals GONE already! Sweet... Saves me time and effort.

Then I remembered the symptom that the car is having right now (rough running, like not firing on all 6) from my old Porsche with Webers. When the idle jet(s) would clog, it would feel like it does now. I'll check for that tomorrow. Also, while I'm in there I'll see if the jets are up-sized to compensate for the cat... If not, that's next to purchase.
 

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Discussion Starter #33

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Discussion Starter #34
9/29/2014:

Today I reinstalled the catalytic converter, and plugged the air pump pipe that's on it.
I removed the plenum and checked the idle jets for clogs... nada :(
The engine still feels like it's only firing on 5 cyls.
I did the old trick of pulling ignition wires from the distributor cap, one at a time, while the engine is running to see if there is a big drop in RPMs. If yes, then that cylinder is ok. If no change... problem on that cylinder.
Found no change when I pulled #5's wire.
So, I did another warm engine compression check. It went up from 100 (previous test) to 110 on all but #5, which read 95 psi. Arg.

I really don't want to do a rebuild on this engine. I'll swap in an LS V8 engine before I rebuild a Biturbo. (I say that now... frustration talking).

Also, I found that I was starving the engine of fuel pressure at boost. I added an inline regulator and set it at 3psi... not realizing that it goes from 2.5 at idle to 13 during boost. So, I adjusted it to it's max (on the aftermarket regulator) of 7 psi and went for a drive. MUCH better. It doesn't run out of fuel until much later in the power band. Next step.. remove the aftermarket regulator.

Man.. I'm learning so much with this project, and I haven't even hit the $2k mark yet!!
*finding wood... knocking hard...
 

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Discussion Starter #35
10/2/2014:
I removed the aftermarket regulator and went for a drive. It was the best drive yet! It just needs a LITTLE MORE pressure.
I found that my new aftermarket pump has a leak at the seam of the pump.
So, I bit the bullet and ordered a new Maserati-specific fuel pump from Auto-Italia.
Hope it does the trick. I have no doubts...

Today I took apart the drivers door to get at the latch mechanism and door handle.
The latch mechanism was completely gummed up. It barely worked. A little brake cleaner and a rag, then some white lithium spray did a world of difference.
I pulled the exterior door handle off, and cleaned it as well.
Same with the rods and slider-clips. Everything moves properly now.
Next is to remove the passenger side door panel and do the same thing.
I'm going to try and take the door handles to a lock smith to have him key them to the ignition key.

A few parts arrived today too.
A new Fram oil filter (I think they are no longer being made?)
A new MSD Blaster2 ignition coil, and a mounting bracket.
It didn't come with the spade connectors though. I'm going to try to source some at a shop near me. If not, I'll just make up a custom connector.

Oh, question for Biturbo owners... I don't have a manual, and don't remember from my Dad's old Biturbo... does the drivers door have an electric door lock actuator, or is the under dash switch only for the passenger side?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
10/4/2014:
The new, proper, fuel pump arrived today, so I installed it and checked the fuel pressure at idle. 2.5 psi.
At high rev it went just over 10 psi!
So, I took it on a test drive and pushed it hard up to highway speeds ( speedo is glitching)... Success!!! It accecerated perfectly and did not shut off! Also the boost was awesome! It was just under red at every shift.
Finally!!!
Next step is to do a final carb tune and timing adjustment.
I may just add an MSD 6a to the system to help it a bit.
Man... Now I'm excited!

Question... I have a heavy oil leak at the crank seal. What is easier on these, pull the engine or pull the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
10/6/2014:
Slight set-back...
New cap and rotor are destroyed.
Be sure that your two cap retainer clips are not stretched out.
They need to have good tension on the cap.
Mine allowed a little wobble while running. Wobble = BAD...
Rotor ate the cap's contacts inside and in turn disintegrated the rotor while running.
Had to put the old cap/rotor back on until new units arrive.

Also, do NOT order the Fram PH3589 Oil Filter!
It is physically too big in diameter. It hits the oil pan before it is able to seat.

I'm also trying to track down a misfire/spark arc. I can hear it, but can't see it... even in the dark.
It's causing a rough idle.
 

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10/2/2014:

Oh, question for Biturbo owners... I don't have a manual, and don't remember from my Dad's old Biturbo... does the drivers door have an electric door lock actuator, or is the under dash switch only for the passenger side?
Power door lock is for the passenger side only. Driver side is manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
10/10/2014:
Update... I have Fridays off for the rest of the year! Yee haw! Garage time!

Last Friday I removed all emissions equipment, unneeded wiring/systems, vacuum lines, canisters, etc. There's tons of room in there now!
While removing things, I was using a test light and found something disturbing. When I rested my hand on the radiator and moved it a bit, I heard a relay click (right side of top of radiator). While testing with the light I happened to touch the radiator itself... um... it was 12V hot!
Yeah... that can't be right. So, after researching what that whole system does, I decided to remove it all... as many others have as well.
No more 12V hot radiator.

Also, I received my replacement cap and rotor and installed it. Runs good again!

My next project is getting the fuse box re-done. I've taken Masera's advice and contacted Ron in TX. Turns out he's also the guru that created the infamous Compendium! I'm sending him my fuse box tomorrow. In disassembly, I found 2 burned pins... hoping for the best.

I took it out for a ride today to test/verify that removing the hose sensors did not knock out my fuel pump. All good. But, it's possible that the previous owner bypassed the system. From what I've researched, the fuel pump should be disabled on disconnect of one of the sensors. I've completely removed both sensors, relay, vapor pump, etc... Still runs fine.

I've got to say, these cars are really fun to work on, especially when they are stripped of their US Emissions junk.

Oh, I found a bad turbo oil return hose on the drivers side. Ordered a new set from Auto-Italia.

I'm probably out of business for about a week... Talk to you guys later :)
 
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