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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, in the process of setting up my clutch I have come across some strange values.
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Read value is is way too high? The car hasn't been driven yet just put into 1st then back into neutral as it's still on stilts with the wheels off

Here is the clutch position
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Is something going on in the bell housing? Clutch has been torqued down to 18nm and I have replaced the throw out bearing with a hill engineering.

Will setting the pis to let's say 5 and trying to move it be okay? ..

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The clutch position itself doesn't look correct..It should be in the 21 mm range...Jason
Approximately 2.5mm out from spec.. does this mean my clutch resting position is too far or too close to my flywheel??
Ive been playing around with the PIS values from 4 all the way to 5.5.
Car moves but needs alot of throttle input for the clutch to grab.. took it down the street and it was lurching slightly in gear at certain throttle positions.

Pretty frustrating. Really don't want to have to tear the car down again. Only thing I can think of is I replaced the washers (about 1mm thick) underneath the end stroke pins . There's supposed to be washers under the end stroke pins correct?
 

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Approximately 2.5mm out from spec.. does this mean my clutch resting position is too far or too close to my flywheel??
Ive been playing around with the PIS values from 4 all the way to 5.5.
Car moves but needs alot of throttle input for the clutch to grab.. took it down the street and it was lurching slightly in gear at certain throttle positions.

Pretty frustrating. Really don't want to have to tear the car down again. Only thing I can think of is I replaced the washers (about 1mm thick) underneath the end stroke pins . There's supposed to be washers under the end stroke pins correct?
I would first blame the diag tool vs mechanical issue

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Approximately 2.5mm out from spec.. does this mean my clutch resting position is too far or too close to my flywheel??
Ive been playing around with the PIS values from 4 all the way to 5.5.
Car moves but needs alot of throttle input for the clutch to grab.. took it down the street and it was lurching slightly in gear at certain throttle positions.

Pretty frustrating. Really don't want to have to tear the car down again. Only thing I can think of is I replaced the washers (about 1mm thick) underneath the end stroke pins . There's supposed to be washers under the end stroke pins correct?
The washers are not gonna affect CCP...Yes there is washers under the pins...I'm kinda with Flash 32...I'm not sure how accurate that software is...I think I would make a post on here and ask that before I took anything apart..J
 

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I have seen the exact same issue in the 430 and the 360 ..so although not 1000 percent I would bet on software

Try all tcus type... Maserati and Ferrari

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What washers did you replace?

Something seems way off on that CCP reading - you've just replaced the clutch?

I have an unusually high PIS on my car, but it validates with other factory readers. I wouldn't worry about the PIS value itself so much as getting it set to a value so that the car drives normally. If you've had the flywheel resurfaced or other manufacturing tolerances it can change that value.
 

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On the topic of setting PIS today I fired up the Launch to see why my car was stalling in 1st/Reverse when warm. I changed the pump relay right before this.

The setting I found on my car was 3.94 which is right below the minimum threshold (4). I increased it by 0.1 increments which helped engagement but at 4.25 it still stalled, I raised it to 4.35 and so far it hasn't stalled but I still need to drive it more to see how it is.

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Clutch wear reads 33% but at 3.94 it was reading around 35%. I don't feel like the car is slipping (but some low speed shifts are rough which might be a stuck throw out bearing) so does anyone know at what wear point will the clutch have to be replaced?
 
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It is always hard to tell..A lot of times the pressure plate will fail before you get to 100%...I'm not a fan of the clutch wear data...It is just some data you use as a tool for diagnosis most of the time..It isn't gospel in my experience...J
 

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When buying a car with CC or DS or MC Shift, though many folks ask for clutch wear data, in reality (and if it's possible) the best methodology is i) view receipts, mileage of when clutch was last done (and what parts were replaced!); ii) observe the driving habits (and indeed, the "mechanical sympathy") of the seller if this is possible; and iii) figure on clutch work soon, regardless. Do folks generally agree?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update on my car, I was able to update my launch and re-read the clutch wear which still reads around 19mm, but I was able to change the pis to 5.0 and it drove a lot better, then worked my way down to 4.5 which is where it sits now. The car is driving great now better then it ever has actually. After almost two years off the road and 8 MONTHS sitting at an incompetent "specialist" mechanic who basically shoved my car to the side it's all finished. I've rebuilt engines from bare block up but this was definitely something different.
I'd like to thank everyone here for the help. And
I 2nd what Jason said about the pressure plate failing, when I took my clutch out, along with the throw out bearing sticking, the pressure plate fingers were stuck compressed and only rebound when I pulled them with my fingers and my clutch wear was only about 50%! I think my failing throw out bearing caused excessive heat in the clutch and the pressure plate failed also.
 
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