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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While I am awaiting delivery of parts (thermostat, rad hoses, etc.), I figures I would remove my mirror switch as I broke it a few weeks back. here is an outline of removing door panel and switch.
You will need: Plastic trim removal tools (don't use a butter knife).
Allan driver, 5mm I think but grab a selection. There are 5 screws to remove. They are all the same head size but 4 different lengths in total.
The longest is under the left side of the trim.
The shortest us under the small, rubber plug under the handle.
There are 2 similar lengths under the grab handle.
There is one slightly shorter one at the bottom corner under the red plastic cap (door light).
BUT TAKE A SHEET OF PAPER AND JOT DOWN THE LOCATIONS TO BE CERTAIN
Small flat screwdriver,
Small Phillips
Here's what you do;
With the trim removers, pry, from underneath, the center trim panel. be careful. This piece is alluminium. the rear has extensions that plug into small metal clips that fit in the panel. be sure to remove those clips if they came off with the trim.
Remove the longest screw, located at the left side of the panel.
With the trim tools, pry off the grip BUT be careful not to pry from under the plastic extensions as those are another piece and attached to the panel frame. The grip will simply pull straight out once loosened.
Remove the small plug from under the handle, place safely away as it is easy to misplace.
Remove that screw.
Remove the 2 screws from the grip frame. One is recessed. These are the same size.
So now you should have 5 removed in total.
Remove the triangular trim from the upper corner. This just pries off.
From the bottom, gently pull panel out so the plastic tabs release and work your way along the sides to the upper corners.
Gently pull the panel upwards.
Look down and you will see the door cable. You can remove this by pulling back on the metal collar and pulling the cable up out of the grove and then pulling the angled tip out of the hole in the lever.
Look up to the right and you will see mirror connector. Unclip that.
Turn panel over (rest on your foot to prevent damage) and you will see 2 connectors. One is white and has a release tab on the SIDE (not end).
Use the flat driver to push that in and pull off connector.
The other has a slider-lock (like the amp). Push down on the black tab and rotate locking collar over and then pull off connector.
To remove the mirror switch, use a small Phillips. Place the screws back into their mounting points so you don't lose them.

What happened to my switch? I rotated too hard and the inner neck broke. This should have been made with Nylon but instead is clear plastic.
How to disassemble switch... there are white locking tabs (4) underneath and black ones on the side. Use a small flat blade to pry the side tabs (black) to separate the housing and contact mechanism. THERE IS A SPRING BETWEEN THE WHITE SECTION/CONTACT MECHANISM AND CLEAR NECK.
The white ones are only released if you need to clean the contacts so:
If the problem is a non working quadrant and you are sure it isn't the mirror mechanism (they do get dirty), release the plastic portion covering the contacts and clean those. if your issue is a non rotating switch or simply a broken one, it's likely the neck. I am going to glue mine back together with some JB weld. If no-go (test from outside the panel), I will hunt down a good, used switch as the dealer cost will be typically nuts.


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How the switch works: When you rotate the button left or right, the tabs on the white section push down on the contacts underneath. when you rotate the button, the inner collar inn the white section rotates as well and closes the contacts for the "close".
Another defect could be a crack in the neck portion that rotates the white collar. That may prevent you from closing the mirrors. In this case, you have to replace the switch or settle for partial functionality. I will test mine and let you know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes but as the cost of small parts is disproportionately high, thought I would be detailed to prevent any unwanted damage to the panel.
As for the switch, innards are fine but plastic shaft is not repairable. I also don't really know where that spring belongs, on rear of shaft I suppose but not certain (or it may have been on the floor and I assumed it was part for the items that popped out when I opened the switch). At the very least, I can put the rear parts back together and have a manual adjuster for the mirrors only but no retraction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mirror switch repaired and working a-1. Needed to use a glue gun to attach the eroded shaft to the rotating portion (used some machine oil as a release agent so the glue would not stick to the rotating portion) and still be flexible to flex to make contact. Finally got it right. Some effort but saved myself a few bucks anyway (I think the dealer charges $120 use for this switch...which can't be any more complicated than the $20 Chrysler version).
 
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