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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are the most common causes for this to come on which shouldn't really happen ? i.e low fuel, loose fuel cap etc. ? I've heard various reports but wonder if there's a common trigger ? Mine comes on and tells me it's the secondary airflow meter (which has been replaced)

Cheers

Jonny
 

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Mine's been for a loose filler cap every time - difficult because overtightening the cap (at leat on my spyder) leads to requiring channel locks for removal once the fuel level goes down.
 

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I've had all these come up at one time or another.

P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

Use the reader to reset the flag, tighten the cap and the light goes out and stays out.
 

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Standard warning applies (since I've done the same - reset my own lights) - it isn't always something innocuous. I had a leaking fuel tank gasket...
 

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RickBullotta said:
Standard warning applies (since I've done the same - reset my own lights) - it isn't always something innocuous. I had a leaking fuel tank gasket...
Quite true, if the light comes back on after tightening the filler cap there's most likely another problem. I fill up about once a week so I've probably gone thru 40 or so tanks and had three MIL lights each at least 2 months apart.

I'm fairly sure in that scenario it's been a mistightned fuel cap. In any case, I'm not going to get too exercised about an evaporative emissions error code.

On the other hand, some of the things that set the MIL flag can be fairly serious. If I were consistently getting misfire or timing errors I'd run it into the dealer.

Here's a list of the standard codes. I don't know if Maserati has customized ones or not. Perhaps Mark can enlighten us. The Code Scout product I've been using seems to be more than adequate to the task.
 

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Certainly can be done at home. Whether you want to do that or not depends on your mechanical acumen, and the proximity, availablity and cost of your dealer.

To do it at home, you need an OBD II code reader (and reset). Got mine (Code Scout 1500) for about $100 after rebate at the local Kragan.

For me it was cheaper and more convenient to do the preliminary testing and diagnosis, as the nearest dealer wanted to charge an hour labor and wait three weeks for an appointment just to read the code, and the good dealer is an hour and 60 miles away.

Hook the reader up to the ODB port (under the steering wheel on the right on the Spyder) start the car and read the code, figure out what it means. If it's not serious, reset the code and go on your merry way. If needed head to the dealer.
 

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My OBD light came on and the car was suddenly very sluggish. Limped home and had car sent to nearest dealer (200 miles away).

They tell me that the catalytic convertor has broken up and bits of it may have been sucked into the engine and that I may need a new engine. The car is 6 months out of warranty so they are saying they will make an unspecified contribution to cost.

While it is there I asked them to look at the clutch as it is making a whining noise from the rear. I am now advised that it needs replacing despite having been replaced under warranty 7,000 miles ago.

To make matters worse they cannot road test the car to verify the above until they fix the cat. Maserati UK sent them the wrong parts so four weeks on they still have the car and have fixed nothing.

Meanwhile my 23 year old Alfa Romeo is providing faultless transport.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Code reader

Steeldream said:
Certainly can be done at home. Whether you want to do that or not depends on your mechanical acumen, and the proximity, availablity and cost of your dealer.

To do it at home, you need an OBD II code reader (and reset). Got mine (Code Scout 1500) for about $100 after rebate at the local Kragan.

For me it was cheaper and more convenient to do the preliminary testing and diagnosis, as the nearest dealer wanted to charge an hour labor and wait three weeks for an appointment just to read the code, and the good dealer is an hour and 60 miles away.

Hook the reader up to the ODB port (under the steering wheel on the right on the Spyder) start the car and read the code, figure out what it means. If it's not serious, reset the code and go on your merry way. If needed head to the dealer.
Cheers Steeldream - just the sort of info I needed ! will hunt around for a Codescout on ebay.
 

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cat warranty?

johnny said:
My OBD light came on and the car was suddenly very sluggish. Limped home and had car sent to nearest dealer (200 miles away).

They tell me that the catalytic convertor has broken up and bits of it may have been sucked into the engine and that I may need a new engine. The car is 6 months out of warranty so they are saying they will make an unspecified contribution to cost.

While it is there I asked them to look at the clutch as it is making a whining noise from the rear. I am now advised that it needs replacing despite having been replaced under warranty 7,000 miles ago.

To make matters worse they cannot road test the car to verify the above until they fix the cat. Maserati UK sent them the wrong parts so four weeks on they still have the car and have fixed nothing.

Meanwhile my 23 year old Alfa Romeo is providing faultless transport.
Check out the UK warranty on the cats. Here in the states, there's a seperate Fed. mandated warranty on how long it has to last. If it were to break down and cause other damage, I don't see how they could get out of paying for everything under warranty (although Maser seems to be pretty good at finding reasons to not cover things under warranty!)
 
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