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Discussion Starter #1
Heya fellas. Yes, I'm doing the old ask the internet questions that are absolutely not possible to answer without proper diagnostics using a AUTEL MX808 or similar. But I'm doing it anyways.

Now we have that out of the way, suggestions on the source?

I'm thinking failed right cat, or o2. maybe a maf?

Anyone ever had all these come on together suddenly?

They were coming and going with pushing throttle hard. Slight hesitation going from a stop.

All but 1 obd codes would clear every few minutes except the right o2.

Thanks for the input.


133562
 

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Autel or Launch. I have MK808=MX808
You can reset oil service with too.
You can also use DS200 Autel.
 
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You generally clear all the faults when you have multiple faults and see what comes back...I wouldn't buy a scan tool just to get code definitions as they frequently are wrong...You need to read the fault that returns and compare that fault code to the factory definition for that vehicle...Codes that start in 0 are generic...Codes that start in a 2 like that means you can't just google it and get a correct definition...Sometimes they are close and others it can be fairly far off...Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You generally clear all the faults when you have multiple faults and see what comes back...I wouldn't buy a scan tool just to get code definitions as they frequently are wrong...You need to read the fault that returns and compare that fault code to the factory definition for that vehicle...Codes that start in 0 are generic...Codes that start in a 2 like that means you can't just google it and get a correct definition...Sometimes they are close and others it can be fairly far off...Jason
I wouldn't buy a scan tool just to read codes, I already have a tool for that. I am needing to buy a new tool that allows me to read the various sensor values to rule things out without having to read resistance etc manually at each component.

Would like to read injector duty, injector pulse, view the maf measurements myself, etc etc etc.

So far, I am leaning towards an air metering issue or a possible failed/clogged right cat. Maybe a vacuum leak.

A bit of history, I was at the race track on Sunday. Car was flawless. I did about 75 miles on the road course with zero issues. Drove the 2 hours home with zero issues. The next morning had zero issues. About the afternoon the next day is when it started to studder. It doesn't feel like a misfire. It feels like a fuel cut which leads me to believe its an air metering issue. When I leave from a light it falls on its face, but once I am going above 5-10 mph, it feels almost like there is no issue at all. Very strange symptoms.

I will obviously do the basics this afternoon. Check for loose connections. Physically review the MAF condition. I will clean it too since I already have MAF cleaner. I will check for any intake leaks. Will check all vacuum lines I can see. Will go from there.

Btw, I reset the car today and ALL the same codes came back immediately. Whatever sensor is bad, its causing the issues. Seems reletively minor so far, just need to trace the issue properly. Not going to buy parts and throw it at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So happy to report that during lunch, I opened my hood on my car to see if I can find anything obviously wrong. And I sure did. I found that because of the racetrack and all the forces etc, the intake boot that connects the maf to the intake throttle body partially fell off, allowing unmetered air into the engine block, which makes sense with the codes I had.

I resecured it, turned the car on and found no weird idle, or hesitation or anything wrong. Back to normal.

The check engine lights are still bouncing between the 4 codes and 2 codes, but I suspect these will completely clear once I get a few cycles in.

So everyone, if you ever see these codes, check your intake.

Thanks!
 
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