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Hello all,

Just bought my first Maserati. 2002 Coupe 6-speed manual w/ 24,000 miles.
So far...LOVE IT!.
Just a couple questions though. I come from owning many Audi's. Shifting was like butter in the Audi's.
I noticed on the Maserati is takes some force to depress the clutch pedal. I also noticed when shifting, the gears don't really "fall" into place like what I'm used too.
Can any other manual drivers confirm this?
Thank guys! Looking forward to some good times on the forum.
Pics attached. :D

Ben

P.S. My Maserati has leather headliner....wow..
 

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First off, congrats on the new car! The girls seem to like the leather headliner i noticed too :D

About the shifting-

It seems to take some getting used to, as i'm sure others will echo. If it's really bad, it may be out of adjustment, but i've found that after learning the gearbox....it shifts very easily for me now, and things fall just where they should. Also very important for the gearbox to be warm for 'proper' shifting.

My pedal is fairly tough, but nothing that causes a cramp.
 

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Welcome and Congrats on the Maserati.

I also own a 2002 Coupe GT. The shifting for me is normal.

I notice the shifting gets easier as the car warms, but even cool I have no problems shifting. It's takes a certin "touch" to go through the gears in my Coupe. I think my advantage is: I have driven my older model Ferrari before buying the Coupe, so the feel is not much different.
 

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Coupe GT

I have a 2003 Coupe GT. It does take a while to master the shifter,but once you do (after warm up) it is very nice. You can get an adjustment at the dealer. It may help, the clutch in my car is not what i would call stiff. You may need a new clutch.
Ron:)
 

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shifting.. don't forget the Audi's don't have an equivalent gearbox to the CC - it's a manual, that you don't have a lot of control over. It does take a while to get in the groove with it - figure on a week or two. It can be a bit blunt if you get it wrong but when it's right, you'll know. It could also need adjustment\sw tweaks so if it's constantly a problem talk to the dealer\specialist
 

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Best shifting method for the F1 CC

Can anyone suggest the best way to shift the F1. I've been told two ways from two different dealers. One let up on throttle when shifting up the other to keep foot press like you were driving a regular auto. Thanks just getting started with my new 06 spyder.
 

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Can anyone suggest the best way to shift the F1. I've been told two ways from two different dealers. One let up on throttle when shifting up the other to keep foot press like you were driving a regular auto. Thanks just getting started with my new 06 spyder.
I tried both ways, and I settled on not bothering to let off the throttle... seems to shift a bit slower if you do so - it engages fast enough in either manual mode to where you don't need to worry about overrevving, in any event.
 

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ochie,

generally, as the manual clearly states, you should keep your foot on the pedal while up shifting, thats how the CC has been designed and thats when you don't confuse the TCU.

the speed of the gear change depends on many things: the car model (4200 or GS), year (early 2002? later 2004? new 2006/07?), the TCU firmware version (has it been updated or not?), etc.
 

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Maserati Blue,

Thanks for the info. Since I just bought the car I'm not sure of the upgrades. Can the dealer tell me that from the vin #? Also I see you have the DBW option, did that help in the up shifting? My 06 GS seems to lag between 1st and 2nd gears. It has a new clutch in it also.
Thanks
 

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If you search the forums, you'll find very little agreement on the best way to shift - the only thing everyone seems to agree on is that reversing (especially uphill) is terrible for the clutch, and that auto mode is bad also (although interestingly on the F-car boards the 360 drivers seem to think auto mode isn't that bad).

I have heard a few times that Maserati backed off the recommendations in the manual and later advised people to lift while shifting. If you search, you can probably find that note somewhere.

FWIW, I lift when shifting, never use auto, keep it in sport mode (I actually like the more violent shifts in sport mode) and try hard not to reverse (although I am forced to in order to get out of my garage). My first clutch lasted 31K+ miles. Others have had similar clutch life while not lifting, and some folks have seen very short clutch life no matter what they do! So YMMV. Personally, I think the real key is the skill of the mechanic who put the clutch in - I suspect (with no real proof) that proper adjustment and settings are the real key to clutch life... unless you decide to drive the car backwards up a steep hill.

I wouldn't worry too much about the TCU firmware - as you have an 06, I think that was post most of the big changes. A Maserati dealer should be able to run the VIN and tell you what was done, as it would most likelyhave been done under warranty as part of a campaign.
 

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Ok thanks, I agree that there are two schools on shifting the CC. I have been letting off a bit and found that to be actually smoother and quicker. I'm going to drive the new clutch a while and then take the car to the dealer for the 18,500 mile service(ouch) and have them check and adjust if necessary.
 

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OK thanks much, I was also told that the DBW option will help.
The Formula Dynamics Drive By Wire Enhancement Module (DBWEM) optimizes your Maserati's Drive By Wire System to produce improved performance and response compared to the factory programming. Today's Drive By Wire systems for Maserati's are designed with the luxury motorist in mind. As such, the vehicle is engineered to produce the smoothest, most predictable response and requires you to push the pedal to the floor in order to get it to respond in a true Sports Car fashion.

In contrast, the Formula Dynamics DBWEM has been developed with the performance driver in mind to produce a substantial increase in vehicle response and performance under all circumstances. Typical effects of our DBWEM are an immediate boost in throttle response, power delivery and improved clutch engagement for Cambiocorsa F-1 models.

These improvements were achieved by reprogramming the factory Drive By Wire System to always "Prepare for War" with a much more aggressive tune. This means that we are always engaging the "Sports Mode" of the vehicle in terms of systems that respond to driver input. Benefits of this approach are that your car is always armed and ready for the moment you want to unleash its power.

You will also notice improved clutch wear from CambioCorsa F-1 models as a result of faster, more positive clutch engagements. $ 1295.00

Significant shifting improvement!!
 

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My GT was very notchy and tough to get into gear - especialy 1st and 2nd and sometimes 3rd.

Switched out the gear oil to Amsoil 75w90 and it is very much better although not as silky as other manuals I have driven. Might want to try that oil. There are two available from Amsoil - one is Severe Gear (GL5) and the other is Synthetic Manual Transmission Oil (GL4). I put the GL4 in mine but I think I might try the GL5 Severe Gear in it next.
 

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Maserati Blue,

Thanks for the info. Since I just bought the car I'm not sure of the upgrades. Can the dealer tell me that from the vin #? Also I see you have the DBW option, did that help in the up shifting? My 06 GS seems to lag between 1st and 2nd gears. It has a new clutch in it also.
Thanks
Since you just got the car, I strongly suggest on doing a full service with all fluids changed.

Keep in mind that after a new clutch, you are supposed to go back after 100 miles or so and have them adjust the KIS/PIS again. Maybe the lag you are experiencing is due to this.

Finally, yes the DBW is a great upgrade, one of those that really make a difference that you can actually feel. It makes the accelerator pedal more sensitive, which improves acceleration and it makes shifts faster (which can make the car "go" faster because there is less delay in the changes). Due to the faster changes, it also saves your clutch life.

As others mentioned above, DO NOT REVERSE ON INCLINE, because the clutch doesn't really engage fully and the friction will lower its life by several thousand miles.
 

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Keep in mind that after a new clutch, you are supposed to go back after 100 miles or so and have them adjust the KIS/PIS again. Maybe the lag you are experiencing is due to this.
MBlue, what is "KIS"? I know what "PIS" is, but I'm not familiar with "KIS" - can you elaborate?

As others mentioned above, DO NOT REVERSE ON INCLINE, because the clutch doesn't really engage fully and the friction will lower its life by several thousand miles.
FWIW, everybody don't forget, there's a lower reverse gearing that's obtainable by engaging the reverse gear via the T-Bar handle as per usual AND THEN hittting the down/left shifter paddle... I've had to back up on inclines on a few occasions and this mode DEFINITELY seems much better for that situation - you don't feel the clutch slipping as much, and as a result, I'm relatively certain it's less harsh & results in less wear when/if you find yourself in that situation.
 

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MBlue, what is "KIS"? I know what "PIS" is, but I'm not familiar with "KIS" - can you elaborate?
I'm not sure myself, one was the gap or height between clutch and plate and the other was the height or surface of the clutch itself. Please, someone who knows more correct me if I'm wrong.

I don't think its frequent, some people need it with the new clutch and other don't, it probably depends on who installed the clutch and adjusted it and how you drive.

It makes a lot of difference who uses the SD2 or SD3 devices, they are rather complex devices and require some training before someone can do the adjustments properly.

As a base line, remember that the adjustments MUST be made with a new clutch, never take the car back if they haven't done them. This is an issue with independent shops who don't have an SD2/3 (or ST5) device, since only those three devices can make the adjustments.

PS:
The SD2 device was brand-specific, so there was a Maserati SD2 and a different Ferrari SD2 device. The SD3 is common to both brands and covers several other things as well. The ST5 is NOT an official device, its actually a "hack" by a chinese company who reverse engineered the way an SD2 works. In addition, the ST5 covers Lambos and other cars. No, they are not cheap so its not a device you can have at home, the SD3 costs about 30k and the ST5 about 15k. They both require subscriptions for updates etc.
 
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