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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

A new clutch was put in my 06 Gransport about 1500 miles ago.

From new it felt great and all was good but lately it feels a little sluggish and i've noticed it takes a really long time to do the beep beep beep and switch to neutral when sitting in first and not moving.

I remember the car would jump to neutral quickly if the car was sitting with no pedals pressed where as now it takes a really long time, i'm not sure if that's because the new clutch is holding the car better or if something is wrong.

Anyone else noticed the difference between a new clutch and old ?

Thanks, Tim
 

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new clutch

I'm getting ready to replace the clutch on my 05 Spyder. The dealer computer puts the remaining clutch at 0%, although the clutch is working fine. I'm going to drive it until it starts slipping. I currently have 16k miles and am curious what others are getting out of there clutch life. Can anyone recommend an independent that deals with Mas's in the LA Riverside area? I am in Palm Desert. Desert European in Rancho Mirage estimated $5400, which seems very high to me.
 

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2003 Coupe GT, I have 27,000 on the original clutch. Dealer looked at the clutch and thought I may make it to 30,000. I am very easy on the clutch off the line; I do not abuse it and only jump on the gas after the car is rolling.
Ron:)
 

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New FM Indie in town

CAN747 - You might want to give Eddie Rodriguez (562-219-9916) a call. He is a FM Factory Trained and Certified Technician with prior experience at a So. Cal. FM dealership. He REALLY knows his stuff and is in the process of setting up his own FM Independent shop in Orange County. He currently rents shop space in Orange County. He has heleped me out in the recent past and I was VERY impressed with his knowledge and demeanor. Good luck.
 

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For the SoCal Maserati folks this "Eddie" will be a valuable person with whom you'll want to know.

BTW, Niteroi, SoCal does include Santa Barbara!!!
 

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BTW, Niteroi, SoCal does include Santa Barbara!!!
Orange County is a good couple of hours away from here, and depending on the traffic on the 405 it may take 4.
 

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Cores Anyone

If you are interested in Clutch Cores to have them sent out to be rebuild with kevlar Shoot me an PM or Email I have Coupe, Spyder, 05 QP and 06-07 QP clutch cores
 

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. . . i've noticed it takes a really long time to do the beep beep beep and switch to neutral when sitting in first and not moving.
Tim - you should be putting her in neutral at lights, not leaving her in gear - you're wearing down the clutch. That's why the computer is kicking her into neutral after a minute - its a safeguard and it's trying to save clutch life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Guys,

I've always tried to hit Neutral when at a stop or keep a foot on the brake to keep the clutch in good shape.

I discovered by accident with the old clutch that with no feet on the pedals it would start to beep and jump to neutral much quicker than it does now with the new clutch.

I guess i was wondering if the new clutch needs to be checked as it's becoming slugish and slow to start like the old clutch and this one only has 1000 miles on it.

If it's checked and there are no adjustments than it's time for the FD DBW mod.

Tim
 

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Hi Guys,
I remember the car would jump to neutral quickly if the car was sitting with no pedals pressed where as now it takes a really long time, i'm not sure if that's because the new clutch is holding the car better or if something is wrong.

Anyone else noticed the difference between a new clutch and old ?

Thanks, Tim
They PIS doesn't readjust itself as the clutch wears like the Ferrari systems do. Go into your dealer every 2500-5000 miles and have them reset the system, this will keep your system feeling the way you like it
 

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Tim - you should be putting her in neutral at lights, not leaving her in gear - you're wearing down the clutch. That's why the computer is kicking her into neutral after a minute - its a safeguard and it's trying to save clutch life.
not true, no reason to put into neutral, in fact, you could argue against it for safety reasons.

1. The CC system disengages the clutch when you reach the point where you would stall. At a stop, the clutch isn't wearing at all, it's disengaged. The biggest causes of wearing out your clutch
-"soft" PIS point
-driving in auto mode (always drive in Sport mode too)
-driving in reverse (it never fully engages in reverse)
-driving in slow traffic in first (where it wouldn't be fully engaged)
-lifting when you shift (shift under full throttle)

2. If you don't downshift, you'll notice that when you come to a complete stop, the CC system will automatically put you into 1st, yet the system doesn't downshift for you any other time (unless of course you're in AUTO mode), and it doesn't put you into neutral This is a safety feature. Let's say you're driving along at 50 MPH and a deer runs out in the road. You slam on the brakes, come to a complete stop. In your panic you're concentrating on reacting (braking as hard as you can, turning the wheel to avoid the deer). If you had a clutch pedal, your instinct would have been to push in the clutch pedal as well. If the system didn't downshift once you came to a complete stop, you'd now be in the middle of traffic/intersection at a dead stop in 5th gear and unable to make a quick return to traffic and would be in risk of getting hit by another vehicle around you. Pulling the left paddle quickly 4 times doesn't put you into 1st, there's some delay in the system.

It's only after sitting for a period of time (I believe it's different on 02-04 and 05-06 models which have the hill hold feature) in first that it goes into neutral. I believe this is also for safety since you could forget your foot on the brake and slowly let up pressure or move it off and the car would then engage and move forward. I've sat in ALOT of traffic and I've never had it happen to me while on the road or at a light, only when sitting for an extended period of time idling and parked.

Although I'm not a factory trained tech, I've spent more hours in my dealers garage than the average owner spends in their car and have discussed the clutch issues in GREAT length with multiple techs and MNA representatives (had a pending law suite regarding clutch life, readings, and costs so I had plenty of research and expert testimony).

In summary: Shifting into neutral at a light doesn't effect your clutch life and isn't necessary. There is no difference in clutch life if you manually downshift as you come to a stop or let the system do it for you.
 

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Hi Guys,

I've always tried to hit Neutral when at a stop or keep a foot on the brake to keep the clutch in good shape.

I discovered by accident with the old clutch that with no feet on the pedals it would start to beep and jump to neutral much quicker than it does now with the new clutch.

I guess i was wondering if the new clutch needs to be checked as it's becoming slugish and slow to start like the old clutch and this one only has 1000 miles on it.

If it's checked and there are no adjustments than it's time for the FD DBW mod.

Tim

Get in your car with your tech and have them set the PIS while you drive. Think of it as buying a suit of the rack and then getting a tailor to fit it to your body. Parameters can be set for each gear until you get it where you like it. They can adjust it to be so soft it feels like an automatic or so aggressive that it will stall starting out if you don't give it at least 3/4 throttle. Turns out I like it just on the threshold of stalling, but it then allowed me to break loose the tires in 1/2/3 under full throttle when I wanted to...

Not sure what year your car is, but the European software was also a nice upgrade but not sure how readily available it is (took ALOT of complaining before they agreed to install it for me).
 

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European software?

... the European software was also a nice upgrade but not sure how readily available it is (took ALOT of complaining before they agreed to install it for me).
I am intrigued! What is this and what advantage does it offer. And another query, is all that gets discussed regarding clutches basically the same whether using the so called CC clutch vs Duo Select? I know they are basically the same mechanically, but is the software the same?
 
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