[Ramp]

As many might remember when I bought my car back in April I immediately had CC issues. After much assistance on this forum and 2 trips to FM the bottom line was they replaced the F1 pump and relay. They also replaced the reverse lever module as the first attempt to repair the issue. The clutch is also relatively new with about 80% life left -replaced about 6 months before I bought it.

The issue: On occasions the CC light will come on and stay on anywhere from a few seconds to a minute or so. During this time, if the car is in neutral she will not shift into any gear. The only possible pattern I have come up with is right after downshifts and/or coming to a light. I do not believe it ever came on while, for e.g., driving on the highway even with some up/down shifts - always when going from high to low revs.

I have checked the fluid level and it seems fine. I'm thinking the only thing to try without spending a few grand having FM trying to diagnose is to upgrade the software - I'm not sure what version I'm currently driving.

Any thoughts from the diagnosticians ?

TIA

RMB

 

[Glenn Wallace]

Well, one possibility is the actuator on top of the gearbox, but then you wouldn't think it would happen when going from high to low revs.

(unless of course the new F1 pump is faulty or they did something wrong with the replacement)

If it wasn't obvious from all the other threads, the CC system is not a mine of diagnostic information.

If the light comes on, there should be a code logged that helps the dealer diagnose the problem (you'd think).

My observation is that practically there is a lot more trial and error involved, which is not so desirable if you're out of warranty.

 

[Ramp]

Well, it's getting worse. I just went for a run to see if I can find a pattern. It always happens when driving around town, not on the highway. I ran it through the gears on the highway and all was fine. Pulled off and stopped at a red light and wham, light came on - but now seems to be staying on for a while - then goes out.

Could the F1 be going again after only a few thousand miles ? Could it be the relay ? Doubtful - correct ? What about a loose wire from the FD DBW install Jeff ??

The pump spins up, the shifts are correct - reliability is taking the fun out of this car. I'm supposed to take a 1000 mile roadtrip in a few weeks and am very concerned - not fun always wondering if your going to get stuck.

 

[demoe]

i would check the DBW

from what I understand, you needed to splice some wires to install the DBW?? Just from my personal perspective, as much as I want to do the DBW and also recd one of the original ECU piggybacks from an older member in Florida, I shy away from doing any splicing of wires. Odds are it is harmless, but to me it is not worth the chance knowing how finicky the electronics on our cars are in general.

 

[Ramp]

from what I understand, you needed to splice some wires to install the DBW?? Just from my personal perspective, as much as I want to do the DBW and also recd one of the original ECU piggybacks from an older member in Florida, I shy away from doing any splicing of wires. Odds are it is harmless, but to me it is not worth the chance knowing how finicky the electronics on our cars are in general.

After work tonight going to:

1. Look for codes;
2. Top off fluid
3. Check DBW connections

Then, if no cigar, have to bite the bullet and call FM - I don't know of any indy's with an SDII

 

[VT DMC]

The gearbox light could also come on from a faulty brake switch, could explain why it happens mainly in city driving and why you can't shift into gear.

 

[Glenn Wallace]

I'm surprised you didn't mention the DBW in the original post. First thing to do is remove it and see if the problem is still there.

 

[GrndLkNatv]

Just Cap the DBW and try it first...

Jeff supplies a by-pass.. I would do that and try it, then if that is not it, start checking the connections...

 

[Ramp]

Thanks guys - Spoke w/ Jeff as well - took the time to discuss as usual - will be checking the DBW and connections later and reading codes - hopefully that will be the problem but I'm not optomistic.

How/ where is the brake switch to check while I'm at it ?

 

[FormulaDynamics]

Randy and I discussed. I advised to physically bypass the DBW with our provided plug and check connections to be sure. An intermittent connection or pinched wire could cause a problem. In any case you would likely bypass the module before taking it to the dealership.

 

[GrndLkNatv]

Jeff....

We all know Jeff is more than helpful, always has a solution and always take care of us... I am sure you will figure it out soon and be back on the road without a problem. Heck my problem was a pinched pin, a quick call to Jeff and all has been very well since!

 

[Ramp]

The gearbox light could also come on from a faulty brake switch, could explain why it happens mainly in city driving and why you can't shift into gear.

Well - I am now slightly optimistic.

First thing I did was hook up the OBDII. ** P0571....Brake Switch A Circuit ** came right up. Got under and found the spring loaded switch behind the brake peddle - started to fiddle with it (key is on, engine off). Pushed on the switch and heard/felt it pop and go backwards a bit. Light popped off immediately. Went for a short drive. Pounding on the brakes, flipping through gears, stop and go - nothing, feeling good. Come to another hard stop at traffic and wham the light comes on.

Gotta her home and left all running - light is on - got under and pushed the brake switch again and it clicked backwards. Walla, the light went off again immediately. Although I am not 100% convinced, looks like a good sign that it's a simple $5 switch. Going to head out in a few minutes and remove it and take a closer look. Will take some pics so people can know what it looks like anyway.

If it turns out to be the switch, it was a great call by VT DMC ! Thanks to all and I'll post again later.

 

[Ramp]

Update

Ok, I left the brake switch connected to the harness but removed it from the latch that keeps it in place for the brake pedal to depress it. Left it hanging and went for a bunch of drives. During each drive the light would come on but now it would only last a couple of seconds - like the problem originally started as. As I drove I played with the switch (stay on topic boys) trying to get the light to go on - no dice - it would simply go on/off on its own with no discernible logic.

Back home. Disconnected the switch entirely. Went for an extended drive around town. No Light !

I won't be sure and have a good comfort level until after a few days of driving without any issue but I'm now 90% sure its the switch.

BTY, it controls the Cruise Control - so I'm not really sure how that affects the CC light - which is why I'm not 100% convinced. The switch is normally in the depressed position when the brakes are not being applied, and you can engage the cruise - press the brake, the switch is released and the cruise is disengaged.

 

[Packard_Roy]

Definately the Brake Light Switch

I had exactly the same situation with my spyder. Took it to FMSF where Gino told me it was the break light switch. Said he has seen a few go bad in the past year causing the CC light to come on. He also said it can be caused by a bad door switch. Try this, put the car in 1st with the driver door open and give it a little gas. You will see the car shift to neutral - thus seeing how the CC is connected to so many switches. The Break light switch is a $40.00 part.

 

[Ramp]

Update:

Drove all morning around town - thought I had the issue resolved -still might - but. No lights at all after 20 miles stop/go/traffic/lights. Was very happy thinking I got it. Went to the car wash - no comments - as it came out of the car wash - the light was on and had to push her out - embarrassing with everyone watching. Reset the battery power. Light went off and till now - a few more miles, no issue. Will see how she does tonight. As per Packard Roy's comment about the door switch - I'm hoping this last time was a coincidence and the computer got confused as the car was pushed through the wash with the key in the ignition and the door may have been open when we started the engine -but not sure. Will give a further update later.

I had exactly the same situation with my spyder. Took it to FMSF where Gino told me it was the break light switch. Said he has seen a few go bad in the past year causing the CC light to come on. He also said it can be caused by a bad door switch. Try this, put the car in 1st with the driver door open and give it a little gas. You will see the car shift to neutral - thus seeing how the CC is connected to so many switches. The Break light switch is a $40.00 part.

 

[sd455]

These cars ( With the f1) can't be fixed.

After reading many posts on this forum and others plus calling dealers out of state and speaking to people in their service dept, My question to them was " I own a 2004 coupe. I've replaced the clutch, f1 pump and relay Should I be o.k?" Not one single person out of 5 made me think that I should have problem free miles ahead. In fact even after doing the above my car is in the shop now going on 4 weeks waiting for a f1 harness as I also got stuck with this nightmare of a car. I'm convinced there are more problems with the f1 then just the clutch,f1 pump and relay ( Like thats not a handfull by itself) Best thing to do is either live with it or sell it. As soon as I get mind back its going up on cars.com for 34k. I'm going back to a real sports car that works before the summers over. Good luck to you.

 

[BigFoot]

Good luck to you mate, I can see a Honda S2000 coming your way


I have had a almost 1 year problem free with my GS and may I have plenty more

 

[sd455]

Thinking a 1995 Porsche 993 would do.

Had one years ago, Seemed more solid then my 996 or 997. ( Not as fast) Hopefully I could find someone that would like to do a even trade. As soon as I get the car back it would be best to just leave it in the garage and just start it to show it. The dealer will give my 30k for it. Within a week or so of running the add if I can't get this thing out of my garage I'll wholesale to the dealer and take a 21,000 dollar loss to go the 15 miles I put on it ( 8 was going to the dealer) I learned thur this that even at 50you should still listen the people, Like the ones that use to own this type of car that told me I be sorry. I'm lucky I could handle the loss without issue. This doesn't mean I'm not pissed off. I was only early May that I was so happy to buy car thinking that all the problems I was told will happen would happen to me. On to the Porsche. Now Maserati lost me as a customer ( Cancelled the QP) I also tell anybody that will listen either at my club or thur the radio show to stay the hell away from this brand of car. It may hurt my chances of unloading it but I feel a lot better sharing my "Maserati story"

 

[Ramp]

sd455 - Thanks for your comments but can you please vent in your own thread - I am trying to get feedback from others to help my situation.

Update - I am confident that the issue is not mechanical, i.e., F1, actuator etc. - the car is running great.

Now, the light has gone on only twice since I removed the brake switch -keep in mind I have NOT replaced the switch yet. Both times it was just after parking when I got back in to start the car - at no time since removing the switch has the light come on while driving - good thing - so no more stuck at redlights and, to me, would indicate that there is no issue with the F1 pump or actuator - which would throw a code while driving. I took my OBD reader with me and pulled the code - same code as before - P0571....Brake Switch A Circuit - interesting since the switch is currently out.Questions: 1 - could there be another brake switch ? or 2 -could the fact that the switch is not connected throw the code after a certain time interval. The code is not thrown each time I start the car - I probably stopped/started 10+ times between the code coming back on.

Thoughts ? TIA

 

[VT DMC]

sd455 - Thanks for your comments but can you please vent in your own thread - I am trying to get feedback from others to help my situation.

Update - I am confident that the issue is not mechanical, i.e., F1, actuator etc. - the car is running great.

Now, the light has gone on only twice since I removed the brake switch -keep in mind I have NOT replaced the switch yet. Both times it was just after parking when I got back in to start the car - at no time since removing the switch has the light come on while driving - good thing - so no more stuck at redlights and, to me, would indicate that there is no issue with the F1 pump or actuator - which would throw a code while driving. I took my OBD reader with me and pulled the code - same code as before - P0571....Brake Switch A Circuit - interesting since the switch is currently out.Questions: 1 - could there be another brake switch ? or 2 -could the fact that the switch is not connected throw the code after a certain time interval. The code is not thrown each time I start the car - I probably stopped/started 10+ times between the code coming back on.

Thoughts ? TIA

There is only one brake switch for car. The brake switch actually interacts with a lot of different components in the vehicle. For example you said you would get stuck at a red light, everyone knows you have to have your foot on the brake to start and shift the car into gear. The brake switch is telling the gearbox computer that your foot is on the brake, no signal and the safety mechanism prevents the car from going into gear.
Of course after just saying that I am not sure why the car would drive without a switch in it, were the brake lights on all the time with the switch out?