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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I could use some pics of a 2005-2007 (not sure if later models are the same or not) trunk latch. Both the square hoop on bottom and the latching mechanism on the top. A couple close-ups of the slot that the square hoop goes into may help.

Here's my problem. My car was lightly rear-ended. Barely scratched bumper cover but it did slightly bend the bumper frame in at the middle just enough to affect the trunk latch function. The trunk lid was untouched so the only difference is the bottom side of the latch is pushed forward in comparison to the lid side. It didn't latch when i closed it normally. This kept me from locking the car so I closed the trunk harder (pretty hard) which did allow the lock to close. That was the last time my trunk was open. It won't unlatch. It's not the electric actuator, nor the key mechanism as I have already bypassed those through the trim/handle opening and now have access directly to the cable. It seems to pull enough that I think the latch is working but the trunk seems to be jammed in such a way that it is binding the square hoop inside the latch mechanism. I'm hoping with pics, I can determine which way to apply pressure on the trunk lid to free the latch.

Also, if anyone knows how the latch works, that might help. When the cable is pulled, does that actually pull the latch open? Or does that simply operate a cam that allows the actual latch to open under spring tension? If that's the case I might be really screwed.

I appreciate anyone willing to help me out. I am very good mechanically so just having some visual idea of how the lock works should really help.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you so much!
That definitely helps me see what I'm dealing with.

Is it easy to see which part is moving when the cable is pulled by turning the key?
I don't mean the latch itself that obviously rotates to engage with the lower square loop but what I can't see is the lever/cam that the cable pulls to allow the latch to release.
If it's not clear what I'm asking yet, the test would be to manually push the latch up to the closed position (with trunk open) and then watch the latch when the key is turned in order to see what part moves to release the latch/hook.

Thanks again of the help...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Still no luck releasing latch...

Few questions:

There are two cables join to the mechanism that I can see. One from the key, and one from up in the trunk lid. Is that second one the electronic actuator?

In the photo:

Is (1) one of the levers pulled by one of the cables? Which?

Is (2) just a spring end?

What's (3) & (4)

(5) does NOT move correct?

On the latch (6), I assume the upper portion hits the top of the square on the bottom side of trunk and rotates the lower portion under the round shaft inside the square catch at the bottom?

It would be helpful to have a video of the same view of the latch–starting in the closed position and then activated by the key to open so I can see what needs to move.

Trying to get this open feels like cracking safes (which I have done several times before) ;)
 

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OK, if a picture is worth a thousand words, then hopefully some moving pictures are worth at least that many...

I'm thinking that some video might answer most, if not all of your questions.

It's dark here, but I attempted to shoot some video of the latch in action with a flashlight. I am using the trunk key to activate the release - first a few times opening the actual latch, then a few more times turning the key with the latch left in the open position so we can see what's moving up in there. Then a final time actually opening the latch again.

Let me know if I need to try to get you some better footage in the daylight tomorrow - or if you'd like a different angle. (First attempt at embedding video on this particular forum, so let me know if you can't access it).

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey that's great! Good job embedding the video.

I really appreciate it. I see that the key/cable activation all happens on the upper side of the latch so it is hard to see the actual release cam. What I'm trying to figure out is what could possibly be binding if the lower unit is moved further forward when it all engages.

I machined a piece to insert on the cable which keeps it pulled (maxes out at about 1-3/32" of pull - that seems to jive with the approximate travel of the key mechanism). So with that cable permanently pulled, the trunk still won't budge. No play, no noise. Seems completely jammed. I've tried pressing down the trunk as hard as I can without bending things to compress it in hopes it would help to release. I've tried pulling up with a lever system inserted into the opening in the sheet metal behind the handle assembly with as much force as possible to the point of starting to bend things.

This is quite a dilemma. I hate to think about cutting an access. If necessary, I suppose right behind the license plate might workout but I would need to identify the best location to do that. Not sure cutting access through the bottom would even help.

Any educated ideas?
 

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I'm out of town until tomorrow, but I'll give it a look in the light then to see if any ideas come to mind. Gotta hope there is a less drastic solution than cutting an access port... yikes.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

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I looked from every conceivable angle but for the life of me couldn't think of an access point... the darned release is so far recessed up in the trunk lid. Even if you could access the trunk from behind the rear seats I don't know how you'd get to the latch (although that would get you to the emergency release cable). Any progress on your end since the last post?

Sent from my CONTROL shoe phone inside the Cone of Silence
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry for the much-delayed response. I'm traveling in Australia at the moment but I finally had a chance to log in and respond.

Still no luck. Does the emergency cable pull on anything deferent that the cable from the lock cylinder?

I'm thinking I might try a custom-made setup where I can apply quite a bit of pressure to the rear of the trunk lid pushing it forward in an attempt to match the very slight forward bend of the lower latch. I will spread the load over the entire flat surface behind the license plate. The difficulty is that the trunk lid is hollow (two sided) so it's easy to bend.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Still can't get trunk actuator to release. It seems completely jammed. I read about drilling a hole to release the actuator. Anyone have any knowledge on this? Sounds like that's my last resort.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For anyone unfortunate to find themselves in the same situation, I ended up drilling a 2+ inch hole right through the trunk lid immediately behind the license plate. It allowed me access to the latch and I was able to find the problem. The manual release lever somehow disengaged (when I slammed the trunk shut) and had to be pushed back into it's normal resting position. There was a slight click. When I tried to pull it again, I felt resistance. I placed 180lbs of weights on the trunk lid and pulled again. It released!

After disassembling the latch, I found that the mechanism had stopped midway through the range of travel. This apparently left it in a position that the Car's brain could not process. I machined a tiny slot in the end of the motor shaft which sticks out (allowing me to turn the rotor with a small screwdriver) and rotated the motor until the contacts were at one end of the travel range. As soon as I reassembled and plugged it in, it worked fine.

I was told by the head tech at the dealer in Walnut Creek that it is sometimes possible to trick the lock into opening using the Leonardo tool. However, it was not worth the cost of transporting the car from where I am 200 miles away for the small chance of success.

There is nothing really special in these latches. It's actuated by an electric motor, but all mechanical inside with two sets of electrical contacts that ride back and forth on a circuit board which provide the circuit connections controlling lock cycle. Unless the motor burns out or the lock is physically broken, there should be no reason to replace these. However, alignment of the latch and the hook that it mates to are very important for the lock to work properly. I do have pics if anyone needs them.

[email protected]
 

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Congratulations on finally getting it open! In hindsight, it sounds like besides the potential Leonardo long shot, drilling your access hole ended up being the necessary fix. Well done...

Sent from my CONTROL shoe phone inside the Cone of Silence
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The only other way I could have done it is splicing into the wiring to the latch motor (which is accessible through the handle mount hole). I don't have a schematic so I didn't want to try that as it seems the signal voltage for switches is 5v and the motor is 12v. I assume it would have been possible to supply voltage to the motor to release the latch but I also didn't even know the motor was still good at that point...
Oh well... My trunk needed a fresh coat of paint anyway ;)
 

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Had problem opening the back trunk automatically. Need help

2002 Mazerati Quattroporte
Can Anyone help me
Last time I closed my Maserati Q Trunk and it doesnt open with key or electric. I accessed the trunk by manually activated the actuator from inside.
I thought it could be a fused but I checked and it is not the case. I checked if there was power in the actuator button and there is no power, the back has no power also.
Can anyone know if the rear trunk actuator takes the power from the control unit or is there a power lock from modulator? Or if there is any relay also that controls the rear lock actuator? There is no power also that goes to the fuse. If anybody who has the electric diagram of the rear trunk lock that would help me.
 

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For anyone unfortunate to find themselves in the same situation, I ended up drilling a 2+ inch hole right through the trunk lid immediately behind the license plate. It allowed me access to the latch and I was able to find the problem. The manual release lever somehow disengaged (when I slammed the trunk shut) and had to be pushed back into it's normal resting position. There was a slight click. When I tried to pull it again, I felt resistance. I placed 180lbs of weights on the trunk lid and pulled again. It released!

After disassembling the latch, I found that the mechanism had stopped midway through the range of travel. This apparently left it in a position that the Car's brain could not process. I machined a tiny slot in the end of the motor shaft which sticks out (allowing me to turn the rotor with a small screwdriver) and rotated the motor until the contacts were at one end of the travel range. As soon as I reassembled and plugged it in, it worked fine.

I was told by the head tech at the dealer in Walnut Creek that it is sometimes possible to trick the lock into opening using the Leonardo tool. However, it was not worth the cost of transporting the car from where I am 200 miles away for the small chance of success.

There is nothing really special in these latches. It's actuated by an electric motor, but all mechanical inside with two sets of electrical contacts that ride back and forth on a circuit board which provide the circuit connections controlling lock cycle. Unless the motor burns out or the lock is physically broken, there should be no reason to replace these. However, alignment of the latch and the hook that it mates to are very important for the lock to work properly. I do have pics if anyone needs them.

[email protected]
Pics need my trunks slammed on a towel key lock broke off bc I turned it too hard ,the cable latch broke as I pulled too hard,the emergency cable under seat no response.I'm in a jam
 
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