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Why not take it to a decent geometry place and discuss what you want with them? Over here we have shops that will dial the car (as much as is possible) to your wishes

C
Agreed!
That's exactly how i came about the numbers that i have posted (y)
 

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If I see wear isues that is exactly what i will do. Dial out excess toe, but not too much to induce negative tramming , dartiness etc on our cambered roads.
 

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Keep in mind that RW drive cars already “force” the front wheels just a little bit outward, so as negligible as that may be it’s still a factor which should be considered when adjusting the alignment, to reduce the inside band wear . Even though neutral ( 0 ) may be sufficient I set my front tires at about 0.25 toe-in. I also don’t think think adding PSI inflation will mitigate anything, but that’s just an opinion, I guess there’s no harm testing that theory and see what the results are .
 

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My passenger side rear tire with over 24k miles on it, showing the first signs of inside wear.
Looking at the wear bars on the inside/outside of the tire, you can see how the inside wear bar has obviously worn the most. (of course due to either camber or toe adjustment or a combo of both).
24k is excellent mileage out of the Michelin's but i will probably make a slight adjustment to the camber to try for a more even wear pattern ?

inside right rear tire cord.jpg
inside tire wear bar.jpg
outside tire wear bar.jpg
 

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That’s about what I also get out of my PS 4 S Michelins on the GT ( 22-24 K miles ) . My daily commute is roughly 80% highway / 20 % street ..for whatever that may be worth relative to tire wear ..
 

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If i get that inside wear bar to match that outside one, i could get another 5 or 10k out of these Pilot Super Sport's. :cool:
 

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Excellent milage but that tyre should, in my opinion, have been changed some time ago!

I had mine set to 0 and had perfectly even wear. YMMV (literally) ;)

C
 

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Excellent milage but that tyre should, in my opinion, have been changed some time ago!

I had mine set to 0 and had perfectly even wear. YMMV (literally) ;)

C
I agree, should have been changed a while ago but i'm dialing in alignment numbers. R & D to see what is capable/possible with differing variations of numbers. Changing the tire before now would have produced a smaller yield of information ?
 

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Excellent milage but that tyre should, in my opinion, have been changed some time ago!

I had mine set to 0 and had perfectly even wear. YMMV (literally) ;)

C
What do you have set to '0' on your rears, the camber or the toe?
 

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My eyes tell me that tread depth is around 4/32nds. So if you live in the desert you are safe. Those big fat meats are USELESS on a wet road and will hydroplane VERY easily. They are done anyway. The first time you truly hydroplane without skills, hell even with skills, you will pucker instantly. Its not worth your life to squeeze an extra $20 of wear out of each tire!!!
Secondly, I have found from day 1 that steering gets heavy when tires are at or below 32psi. Every car is unique. I have found ~34-35psi all around tro be quite reasonable. Here is the kicker. If you supposedly overinflate a tire, it will promote wear in the center of the tread. Based on our wear patterns, that extra couple of psi may be exactly what we need to help with the wear.
 

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I have always kept my GT tires at 34 psi , cold. That extra couple of psi didn’t do much to prevent my inside band wear, only realignment with the modified toe settings changed that .

But what ddsski mentioned about oveinflation increasing center band wear is also my understanding, although I’m thinking it needs more than just 2psi .. maybe 4 ?

However, with a 36 cold inflation you could be running into that max tolerance psi level when they’re hot . On heavy cars like these tires will get warmer quicker ; I have the same tires on my Porsche ( 3,050 lbs ) and if I drive it just like I do the Maserati in a milder, more civilized manner :sneaky: , those tires will take twice as long to get to the GTs psi warming time. And they’re just 17s / 255s and 225s, so I’d assume all else being equal , smaller tires get heated up quicker, that’s why I’m attributing the quick Maserati warmup on its weight .

But now I’m way off on a tangent, so back to the key point ; 2 extra psi didn’t mitigate my uneven wear. Toe-in by just a smidge from a zero setting seems to have solved that problem. I have a tire depth gauge, and keep measuring the entire surface from time to time, just to monitor the wear . So far so good, all nice and even.
 

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Can't honestly remember. I don't think I had 0 toe on the rears, but certainly on the front.

C
Ok, thanks... I just slapped some new rubber on the rear yesterday and will adjust the camber this week from -2.1 to about -1.0 ?
 

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I’ve called around to a few shops and it seems like most alignment shops won’t touch the car, or can’t manually adjust from factory settings.
 

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I’ve called around to a few shops and it seems like most alignment shops won’t touch the car, or can’t manually adjust from factory settings.
That sucks...
I have a specialty shop here that sets up race cars and such, they will dial in whatever numbers you can come up with!
 

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Very reasonable prices.
 

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$ 229 for a four wheel alignment ? That is indeed very reasonable ! Most shops around this area typically charge at least $ 350 and often more, for a full alignment. Some will refuse to do only two wheel alignments on high end cars ; they cite the lamest reasons you’ve heard of, which oddly do not seem to apply to a run-of-the-mill car you might bring in for just a front wheel alignment, but take a Porsche or a Maserati or Jaguar, or even a top end BMW or Mercedes there, and suddenly different rules apply ?
 
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