Issue 1 - TPMS Sensor Replacement:

Typically the life cycle of these sensors are between 4 to 6 years.

Any good tire shop can tell you if they are working. Any good tire shop can replace them.

The 433hz OEM ones are produced by Huf and cost about $60-70 USD each. They can be purchased by any good tire outlet such as Tire Rack. Type in “Maserati, Model & Year” and you will find them. Generics can work as well as long as they are 433hz. However, purchase the Huf ones. Be a big shooter and spend a few extra bucks for OEM! Purchase 4 at a time. Chances are if one is bad that the others will fail shortly.

Also, most tire shops can clear your diagnostic code. If not, you will need to reset it yourself and go through calibration, read below.

 

Issue 1 - TPMS Sensor Replacement (Continued):

After your TPMS sensors have been replaced, drive your car for about 10miles to calibrate. The sensors should obtain a reading. Important note - If you get a “small warning light”, see below, keep driving and eventually it will go off. It usually lights to indicate the sensors haven’t calibrated over a set interval. It will, however, stay permanently lit if you get the “TPMS failure warning”.

And, if you get the “TPMS failure warning” you are done! A code has been thrown and you must clear it again and start over!

How to clear it? Purchase something like an Autel or the Foxwell, see below (Note - order unit with Maserati (all models) software already loaded on it), plug it in to the OBD port and follow the prompts.

 

Issue 2 - A Substantial Temperature Change:

As I mentioned before, the Germans love precision and this system is overly sensitive; consequently, any substantial temperature change (typically a cold weather/freezing temperature drop) will set off a code.

Guess what? You need to clear the diagnostic code or it will come back on again.

Raising/lowering tire pressures, unhooking the battery, doing weird procedures, performing rain dances and pressing the calibration button will typically not work—especially if the TPMS sensors are working intermittently due to low battery life in cold weather.

Btw - If you jacked up the tire pressure, ran around the car twice, deflated the tires and turned the ignition key backs and forth 3 times and this proceedure worked—congrats. You got lucky! Generally, the error will come back without root cause and simple recalibration stunts won’t clear it.

 

Issue 2 - A Substantial Temperature Change (continued):

Again, generally a significant cold weather change in temperature will set off the TPMS; and, on rare occasions, a substantial warm weather change will do it as well.

There is no solution for this issue other than deleting the TPMS fault code and recalibrating by driving the car for ~10miles at the new temperature!

Thank the Germans. Remember, if every other Tier 1 automotive supplier, anywhere else in the world, can make a component with 4 fasteners—the Germans will figure out a way to make it with 16; and, Germans love mechanisms. Because of this, German parts are typically high quality and function like watches—well, at least until they break. Unfortunately, being good at producing overtly complex mechanisms doesn’t carry over well into the world of electronics where overtly complex systems become a recipe for “glitch central” as in the case of our TPMS unit.

 

Other Potential Issues:

If you are 100% sure that after resetting the code and performing the drive calibration that the issue is not resolved
(Warning1 - Was there a sub-zero temperature drop last night?)
(Warning2 - Are you sure all 4 sensors are working properly and with good battery life? Occasionally some are faulty right out of the box)

then:

3) The next likely issue is the wiring. Inspect the wiring or have your shop inspect the wiring harnesses. In my case I did have an intermittent issue arise due to wiring. If replacing the sensors wasn’t the answer and the temperature didn’t drop like a stone, this would be the next item I would check.

4) There have also been some cases reported with the control unit board failing. You will need to pull the control module out from under your driver side floorboards (LH Side), check the unit type and re-purchase from Eurospares, Scuderia, etc. (or give them your vin). Supposedly these units were specific to the model year and are not reverse compatible with replacement part numbers. I seriously doubt this, but I could be wrong. Others have reported blowing off the control module connectors/pins to get them to work properly. I am also skeptical as far as success in using this method but some have reported having good results. Finally, the board can be replaced on its own if you can’t find a new module. There is a vendor who has been on EBay for years that manufactures new ones out of China. I have heard some success from people who went ahead and replaced the board. These boards are expensive though.

5) Finally, there have also been some reports of antenna damage resulting in an issue, typically after an accident. That said, I have been told by mechanics that they are pretty bulletproof and usually don’t fail. I would ultimately check the wiring for damage before attempting to replace these.

Remember, again, clear the TPMS codes after performing work and calibrate by driving the car ~10miles.

 

Final Note - Calibration Button:

From what I understand, this button is typically used for minor tire pressure changes—for instance, you pump up your low tire. I thought it was like the “open door” elevator button, but supposedly it does do something…

Anyhow, it will do nothing if you have thrown a code on its own. The light will turn green and then almost immediately the dreaded “TPMS failure warning” will come back on. Again, this button shouldn’t clear the TPMS diagnostic code on its own. If the light does happen to go out I’ve been told it’s due to other factors in the logic.