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Major help needed!! New battery

891 Views 23 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Catmanv2
Hi all,
Recently , I’ve purchased a new battery and replaced my old interstate battery that was near end of life on my Granturismo 2011. After replacing, everything went smooth, car started up easily and drove with no warning lights. HOWEVER, the issue starts when i go to turn off the car. I turn the key and pull it out the ignition, the car’s electronics does not turn off and flickers like crazy with a loud ticking noise that come with it. Only way i could completely turn off the car is by disconnecting the battery.
I’ve followed the procedures for installing new battery and also made sure everything is connected and secured properly.
Can someone please shed some light on this???
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That doesn't sound like an issue with the new battery, to me, but happy for anyone else to chip in.

I'd be looking at the ignition swith.

C
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That doesn't sound like an issue with the new battery, to me, but happy for anyone else to chip in.
I'd be looking at the ignition swith.
C
+ 1
Any chance it could be a fuse or a bad relay??
Sounds like the body processor is messed up..Jason
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Jason, care to elaborate a little bit?
Would it really be the body control module even when you shut off the car? To me it seems like the ignition switch could be a higher probability
What is a “ body processor “ ?
The body processor(BPM) is the module that controls all body functions such as interior lights, door locks, wipers etc.. That is why you can leave the door open on a new car and it will automatically shut off the light after like 10 minutes.. Old cars didn't have one and if you left the trunk open then you got into a car with dead battery the next morning.. The IGN. switch usually just provides a small ground input the body processor so that is why I don't think it is the IGN. switch. The loud ticking noise is your clue as the BPM is messed up as is the the part making the relays do that...I would obviously have a shop look at it, but I have seen them do that before...They will often turn on the wipers with the battery connected as well...Jason
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Cool, thx. (y) So many damn gizmos ( highly technical term 😜 ) in newer cars it’s just fascinating . And unless you’re a master mechanic with a wealth of knowledge and experience, I can’t imagine anyone else diagnosing which one , out of a hundred and one electronic components, half of which are connected in one way or another, has gone bad.
Thanks all for the input. Jason, you reckon if the body control module took a dump i can bring the module to a electronic repair shop? Or will i most likely need to buy a new replacement? And if so does it require reprogramming from the dealership?
Reckon? and you are in Canada? Must be the South part.. ;) You really need to have a shop look at it at this point...My diagnosis was based on my experience...No, you would need a new BPM if that was the issue....Most shops are not gonna be able to do a BPM replacement for software reasons...sorry..J
Reckon? and you are in Canada? Must be the South part.. ;)
That‘s funny . :) Unless he’s mocking y’all . 😜
I'm from Detroit.. I don't reckon anything, but I'm super cool with it...Part of living in the South.... :giggle: J
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Lol, when in Canada there is no such thing as south. Anywho thanks for the input, I’ll bring it to a shop and see what they say. Praying it’s not the body control module, I have a feeling they will keep my car for weeks if it is…
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Guys,
I'm beginning to rule out the Body Control Module, as everything works as they should. I am suspecting it to be a relay as it seems like one of the switches is not closing upon shutting off the car and hence still sending power to the electronics. The resistor in one of the relays has most likely gone bad and not enough to close the switch (or completely close the switch) hence why the flickering and beeping from the electronics as it is still getting power but not the full amount...
If you were to pinpoint the relays, which one would you narrow down first to do some resistance testing? (ie. Glove box relays on the BCM, Trunk relays etc)
The resistor in the relay is there to stop feedback to the ECM driver when the circuit opens...Even with a bad resistor the relay should work...Yon can try swapping the relays on your BCM or fuse box left of the steering wheel.., but your BCM is the part grounding a lot of the circuits in there including your ignition on relay..Jason
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The resistor in the relay is there to stop feedback to the ECM driver when the circuit opens...Even with a bad resistor the relay should work...Yon can try swapping the relays on your BCM or fuse box left of the steering wheel.., but your BCM is the part grounding a lot of the circuits in there including your ignition on relay..Jason
Yeah. A bad resistor isn't likely to stop a relay from turning off

C
A broken or weak return spring in the relay will keep the relay out of its normal position. You can usually feel the relay tic when it energizes/deenergizes with a finger on it.
Thanks all for the feedback, but great news the problem has been fixed.
So after changing to the new battery, I needed to go for a full 30min drive to juice up the electronics and new battery...As the car have been sitting for 8 + months, it had been starved. After the drive, all the electronics corrected itself and all is running smoothly now.
Thanks all for the feedback, but great news the problem has been fixed.
So after changing to the new battery, I needed to go for a full 30min drive to juice up the electronics and new battery...As the car have been sitting for 8 + months, it had been starved. After the drive, all the electronics corrected itself and all is running smoothly now.
Glad you got it sorted...maybe I missed it but the sitting for 8 months info would have been helpful. (y)
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