You would think that if the car is in neutral that it would attempt to start. I can see if the car was in gear and the pump was unable to develop pressure and put the clutch in neutral as it normally would to start it??? Needless to say, I appreciate the advice and I guess what I will do is find the relay wherever it is and see about either getting a new one or swapping a like kind relay from somewhere else assuming that there is another similar one. It could very be that the fluid level is low and seriously old. I have never changed it or looked at it and it was on my list to do, so maybe I get a bit lucky. I will call it lucky, and it needs filling and changing / adding fluid??"?
Is it a worn out Clutch?
So, I had my 2004 Cambiocorsa Coupe out today and in my over 4 years of owning it this is the 1st time I was left stranded. I think it is a clutch or possibly the clutch sensor, but smarter people are on this forum. I have never had the clutch measured or done since I have owned the car. It has......63,xxx miles on it. The issue....while driving today sitting at a stoplight in neutral, the light turns green and I put the car in 1st gear and take off. I never drive the car in automatic mode and never sit at a light or stop sign in gear. So, once I am going and hit the paddle for 2nd gear....nothing happens at all, it just stays in 1st gear. I keep trying and nothing. At this point I do try and put it in the automatic mode, but nothing happens still in 1st gear. I pull over at a safe place and as I was pulling into the space the trans goes in to neutral. I think it did it all by itself, as I don't think I requested it to go into neutral. I shut the car off and when I tried to restart it nothing happened at all. All the lights on the dash were illuminated but nothing. I had it towed home and tried to see if my code reader could see if there were any codes stored. I expected some, but nothing. I tried two different code readers, and both didn't show anything and no pending codes. I shut the battery off for at least 20 minutes and nothing changed. It is a no start now. Could this be a result of a worn out clutch or something else, like a brake pedal switch or fuse?????? Thanks Mark
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OK, so as RJ237
I did not hear anything.....soooo listening to you guys and looking up the other threads.....my fat a*....too many Peroni's. When I laid in the trunk, at first I did not see the relay and the yellow and green HUGE fuses. A bit more foul language...at myself....had to have the extra beers for the last 40 years. well anyway I was able to see the relay and the fuses, and it is held on by 2 8mm nuts. Actually, one nut and one bolt both 8mm. I used a small 1/4 drive rachet and long 8 mm socket. It worked. I have the grey Tyco relay and my car is the 2004 Coupe BTW and when I pulled the fuses the yellow 20-amp looked good, easy enough to see. The green one. 30-amp fuse is harder to see. as it is not a clear sight of where the fuse would burn out, but it did look like it was burnt in the middle. I confirmed it by used a multimeter and sure enough it was open. I am going to see about getting a few 30-amp fuses and see if it allows me to start the car. II have a feeling that the fluid is Sh* and old and possibly low and maybe over ran the pump and hopefully the fuse blew before the pump. Maybe it will allow me to get the car's F1 fluid changed and leave the clutch alone for now!!!This may actually be the F1 pump gone bad. Did you hear it prime when opening the door once the car wouldn't start?
Dirty Dog....while I havent seen it yet I expect it to be........very dirty and low!!! Just a guess. Will keep you updated.also check your hydraulic oil level... and clarity.
So I was able to get the 30n amp fuse but not a matching relay, so I came home and put the fuse in and also the relay back in and I still did not hear the pump or anything. I pulled the fuse and tested it with my ohm meter and it seems to be blown, so I guess it could be a bad pump blowing the fuse or a bad relay maybe causing it? I am no electrical
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genius, but figure until I can get a new relay and a, able to rule that. Something is blowing the fuse??? Pictures of the Relay etc.
I just got a new relay and will try to install tomorrow.
The pump has bushings and not bearings..As they wear they draw a lot more current as the armature drags.If your relay is trashed with blued terminals etc. then you need a new pump and relay..Jason
New pump motor and relay, possibly?
...most probably clutch.. I had to change mine at 77 k miles..I had same symptoms
Thank you, guys, for the info. I actually had to order the relay and it comes in tomorrow. The 1st chance I will have to put it in with the fuse will be Wednesday. I understand what Jason is saying and we'll see at least what this does before sending it in. I guess at least I have a new pump that the previous owner thought he needed but did not, so am I right to assume that while I believe I could install the pump myself there really isn't a way to successfully bleed it correctly without Maserati specific software?
Jason, is it possible to bleed the pump without Maserati specific software or would I be wasting my time? I believe that I am capable of installing the new pump. I have a new one actually sitting around that the previous owner gave me.The pump has bushings and not bearings..As they wear they draw a lot more current as the armature drags.If your relay is trashed with blued terminals etc. then you need a new pump and relay..Jason
If you just change out the pump then you shouldn't have to really bleed anything..JasonJason, is it possible to bleed the pump without Maserati specific software or would I be wasting my time? I believe that I am capable of installing the new pump. I have a new one actually sitting around that the previous owner gave me.
Thank YouIf you just change out the pump then you shouldn't have to really bleed anything..Jason
I thought it was probably just the motor that needed to be replaced.
You can separate the the motor from the actual pump easily..J
How is it that you can change the pump without doing a bleed? I guess there is a check valve at the power unit/solenoid block... that is on the discharge side of the pump... but air would get in to that line as the hard-tubing nut is slackened to remove the pump...? On the pump suction side, you'd first empty the reservoir with a clean siphon (and refill the reservoir once done)... but even so, there'd be a high spot (right under the pump) where air would accumulate once the pump suction is reconnected (and when the reservoir is refilled)...? I guess you're saying that practically, the system appears to be able to tolerate this air, and maybe it works itself out though the actuator exhaust piping back into the reservoir...?If you just change out the pump then you shouldn't have to really bleed anything..Jason
This might be all be moot, 'cuz why break-in to the hydraulics when you could likely only change the pump motor...?
It doesn't bother it just unhooking the line like that..You could also leave the line loose a 1/4 turn and open the door and tighten the fitting as it leaks out..Jason
You da Man!!!!It doesn't bother it just unhooking the line like that..You could also leave the line loose a 1/4 turn and open the door and tighten the fitting as it leaks out..Jason
I have read many responses from you on owners questions, and I know I appreciate it and I am sure others do also!!!!
Mine left me stranded last year and it turned out to be the potentiometer (I might not have spelled that right?). I figured it was the clutch but it ended up not being too expensive or involved.
I’ve done the F1 pump myself. I wouldn’t bother just replacing the motor when the pump and motor sold together are a little over $300. Mine ran fine without bleeding the system. I did have it bled a few hundred miles later but I don’t think it really needed it.
Loudoun County Exotics is somewhat of a tow from you in Sterling VA but they work on a ton of Maseratis and have been very fair, always get it done and rock a Leonardo. I believe Greg opened up after being with Ferrari of Washington for a long time. They know their stuff. If I can’t do it myself, I send it to them. He’s usually happy to hook the car up and figures out what’s wrong in couple minutes . You really need the software to diagnosis it
I’ve done the F1 pump myself. I wouldn’t bother just replacing the motor when the pump and motor sold together are a little over $300. Mine ran fine without bleeding the system. I did have it bled a few hundred miles later but I don’t think it really needed it.
Loudoun County Exotics is somewhat of a tow from you in Sterling VA but they work on a ton of Maseratis and have been very fair, always get it done and rock a Leonardo. I believe Greg opened up after being with Ferrari of Washington for a long time. They know their stuff. If I can’t do it myself, I send it to them. He’s usually happy to hook the car up and figures out what’s wrong in couple minutes . You really need the software to diagnosis it
I appreciate it and it has been on the side burner for awhile. I have another car I am trying to sell on Cars and Bids that should be happening this week. I was thinking the same thing. I have a 4 post lift, but getting the car on it would be a challenge and I really need to sell a car to make room cause I know it will be on the lift for a while probably. Thanks for the help. All is appreciated.
I pulled out all the trunk stuff to see the access to the pump etc. through basically where the spare tire is located etc, I will try to jack it up in my driveway and see if it is possible as my lift and garage are full of cars that cant stay outside or shouldn't stay outside. I'll let you know where it goes as I do have a new F1 pump that was ironically given to me when I purchased the car, we'll see if it is possible not being on the lift and if I really want to go through that!!!!
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