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2004 Spyder Cambiocorsa Verde Mistral / Black
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I know there are a lot of previous posts on stuck posts but none exactly cover where I am.

The dealer replaced the straps on my top so they are new. They may be misadjusted but they are new.

Put the top down once no problems, but today it stuck halfway. After a bit I found I could cycle the switch and it would inch down, no problem get it down and maybe check the fluid level (wherever that is) - BIG mistake the top stopped 90% down and the lid released to close.

Now I have the lid resting on the top no pressure holding it up and the top switch is dead. I have cycled the ignition switch several times to no avail.

I cannot get the trunk open to cycle the battery since it hits the partially open top lid.

I will try leaving it alone overnight to see if it will clear and reset but is there something else I can do to gain operation?
If I follow the manual closing procedure what do I do to 'reset' the top so it will fold again after I check the straps?

As I have mentioned I am a long, long way from a dealer.

Yikes!

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood
And it was a perfect top down day until Murphy showed up! :(
 
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Look in your owner's manual..There are two over ride switches in the center storage area..You may want to try and hold the tonneau cover up and have an another person hit the main switch again...Jason
 
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2004 Spyder Cambiocorsa Verde Mistral / Black
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Look in your owner's manual..There are two over ride switches in the center storage area..You may want to try and hold the tonneau cover up and have an another person hit the main switch again...Jason
Thanks I knew you would answer.

We tried that - I held up the tonneau and my wife cycled the ignition, then the top switch, no dice, switch dead. I presume this top like most is a nightmare of limit switches.

I thought the two glove box switches just locked the header and tonneau pins after a manual close? Do they reset the system as well?

The top system is pretty arcane when it comes to real info - then again, people who can afford 100K+ cars new have people that do everything for them. ;) I ain't no Fortunate Son. LOL

The bright side of all this that while fiddling around the center glove box I found the original manuals including the original cards with codes.

So presuming I do the manual close do I need to come see you to restore the sequencing? Does that require SD/Leonardo or is the system smart enough to fix itself?

Wife is itching to see the great-grands out in Dacula.
 
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It sounds like it is all out of sequence...There is no reset via the scan tool...The top ECU is seeing a problem with the location of the top mechanism and the location of the tonneau cover and shutting the system down to prevent damage...Manually, try getting it back into a more natural position and see if it comes to life...There is a screw on the pump to release HYD. pressure so you can move it best I remember...Jason
 

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There is a screw on the pump to release HYD. pressure so you can move it best I remember...Jason
^^ This.

Opening the valve should allow manual lowering. Close the valve, battery reset for good measure and hopefully good to go. The valve is accessible via a cap in the bulkhead cover behind the RHS seat - you'll need a flat head screwdriver long enough to reach into the cone:


Wood Gas Cylinder Kitchen appliance Machine


For reference, the fluid reservoir is shown on the right.
 

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2004 Spyder Cambiocorsa Verde Mistral / Black
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It sounds like it is all out of sequence...There is no reset via the scan tool...The top ECU is seeing a problem with the location of the top mechanism and the location of the tonneau cover and shutting the system down to prevent damage...Manually, try getting it back into a more natural position and see if it comes to life...There is a screw on the pump to release HYD. pressure so you can move it best I remember...Jason
Okay, I think the next step is a manual top closing and using the switches to lock everything. Then maybe a battery disconnect to reset. I will have to check the straps and the fluid. Although I presume they checked that when it was in the dealer trim shop, But, then, presume is just about the same as ASSUME. :(

Thanks again.
 

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2004 Spyder Cambiocorsa Verde Mistral / Black
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
^^ This.

Opening the valve should allow manual lowering. Close the valve, battery reset for good measure and hopefully good to go. The valve is accessible via a cap in the bulkhead cover behind the RHS seat - you'll need a flat head screwdriver long enough to reach into the cone:


View attachment 139622

For reference, the fluid reservoir is shown on the right.
^^ This.

Opening the valve should allow manual lowering. Close the valve, battery reset for good measure and hopefully good to go. The valve is accessible via a cap in the bulkhead cover behind the RHS seat - you'll need a flat head screwdriver long enough to reach into the cone:


View attachment 139622

For reference, the fluid reservoir is shown on the right.
Thanks! Gonna need about six hands it seems.
 

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Just to outline in an organized fashion:

Step 1: move passenger seat all the way forward. Step 2: Find cover behind seat for pump pressure release screw - pop off plastic cover. Step 3: insert flat head screw driver, turn counter clockwise. Step 4: Hold cover up with one hand, put pressure on top assembly to go into tray with other. Step 5: close cover (will hear it latch). Step 6: turn pump pressure release screw clockwise to restore pressure. Step 7: start car. Step 8: Cycle top.

What likely started this entire ordeal is that your elastic straps are worn. This causes the second bow of the top to bind when trying to close (look closely at the top, you may see a wear mark on either side as a result of this not being the first occurrence). Trying to continue operation with the top bound by the second bow likely put you out of synch. The top inching down was a safety measure since the top no longer knew what position it was in and did not want to destroy itself by continuing operation after stowage. The tray cover will only remain open for so long before pressure is cut and it slowly closes. Temporary solution: push second bow back while closing top. Permanent solution: get elastic straps to supplement the worn original elastic straps. A user on here named Lorenzo used to make them. Not sure if he still does, but it is worth searching for him and asking.

Those two buttons in the glove box several are talking about....I call them voodoo magic buttons. For the life of me I cannot figure out exactly what they do (never took the time to learn them), but occasionally I'll press them when all else fails and suddenly the stop cycles through.

It is highly unlikely to be fluid level. From what I have seen I am just about the only person that has had a fluid level problem, and in my case it was a seal that was leaking fluid between the pump assembly and the motor (fortunately was able to fix). On mine I was blowing fuses due to a carbon bridge that the fluid mixed with graphite shavings from the motor brushes was causing (hard short).

Between the above issue, worn straps, and the window limit switch that prevented top function I've had my fair share of tinkering with the operation of the assembly. I would not consider myself an expert on the matter, but far from a novice. If you want to have a quick chat about it shoot me a PM and I'll give you my number/availability.
 

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2004 Spyder Cambiocorsa Verde Mistral / Black
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just to outline in an organized fashion:

Step 1: move passenger seat all the way forward. Step 2: Find cover behind seat for pump pressure release screw - pop off plastic cover. Step 3: insert flat head screw driver, turn counter clockwise. Step 4: Hold cover up with one hand, put pressure on top assembly to go into tray with other. Step 5: close cover (will hear it latch). Step 6: turn pump pressure release screw clockwise to restore pressure. Step 7: start car. Step 8: Cycle top.

What likely started this entire ordeal is that your elastic straps are worn. This causes the second bow of the top to bind when trying to close (look closely at the top, you may see a wear mark on either side as a result of this not being the first occurrence). Trying to continue operation with the top bound by the second bow likely put you out of synch. The top inching down was a safety measure since the top no longer knew what position it was in and did not want to destroy itself by continuing operation after stowage. The tray cover will only remain open for so long before pressure is cut and it slowly closes. Temporary solution: push second bow back while closing top. Permanent solution: get elastic straps to supplement the worn original elastic straps. A user on here named Lorenzo used to make them. Not sure if he still does, but it is worth searching for him and asking.

Those two buttons in the glove box several are talking about....I call them voodoo magic buttons. For the life of me I cannot figure out exactly what they do (never took the time to learn them), but occasionally I'll press them when all else fails and suddenly the stop cycles through.

It is highly unlikely to be fluid level. From what I have seen I am just about the only person that has had a fluid level problem, and in my case it was a seal that was leaking fluid between the pump assembly and the motor (fortunately was able to fix). On mine I was blowing fuses due to a carbon bridge that the fluid mixed with graphite shavings from the motor brushes was causing (hard short).

Between the above issue, worn straps, and the window limit switch that prevented top function I've had my fair share of tinkering with the operation of the assembly. I would not consider myself an expert on the matter, but far from a novice. If you want to have a quick chat about it shoot me a PM and I'll give you my number/availability.
Wow, thankos muchos, I have been jumping between every thread on this subject and your post is absolutely the most lucid. Working on my first cup of java this morning so will attempt it after my 'caffeine low level' light goes out.

I just got the car about two weeks ago and noticed the now explained 'rash' on the top. i saw some pix of other cars for sale with same rash - now I know.

The dealer delayed the delivery of the car because it was in the trim shop. They muttered some words about elastic straps which at the time meant nothing to me. Obviously does now.

The top cycled perfectly once before so I am guessing that something has happened to the straps which should be new.

I will get the top up and latched per manual procedure and take a look for the straps.

Do you or anyone reading have pix on how to inspect/adjust. I know Lorenzo makes replacements but as I mentioned mine should be new.

Thanks again,

The comments I am getting on the car and the fun driving it are worth the aggravation of its 'eccentricities.' ;)
 

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2004 Spyder Cambiocorsa Verde Mistral / Black
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Again, thanks to everyone who answered my neurotic panic call.

The rest of the story is:

I went out this morning screwdriver in hand and removed the pump and switch covers

Ready to do battle my wife said - let me hold up the lid and try it one more time

So I pushed the close switch and up it popped and locked

Wife gave it a slight assist when we opened it so it tucked neatly away and locked down

IOW - I would rather be lucky than good any day! LOL

Apparently the 'new' bands need adjusting if that is even possible?

Any pix or tips on accessing and 'trimming' the band tension muchly appreciated!
 

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I would cycle it a few times to assure there is no binding. For reference, the bar in question that binds is in the below picture (should be item #1 - the first ox rear of the support that latches to the windshield frame). The elastic get worn preventing the bar from being pulled towards the rear of the vehicle, and if the top begins to bind you can cycle the top about an inch towards the "closed" position, shove the bar back with your hand, and continue closing the top normally. That is the quickest way to diagnose and by far the most comment problem. I would keep this in mind regardless of what your prior shop has stated about elastics.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would cycle it a few times to assure there is no binding. For reference, the bar in question that binds is in the below picture (should be item #1 - the first ox rear of the support that latches to the windshield frame). The elastic get worn preventing the bar from being pulled towards the rear of the vehicle, and if the top begins to bind you can cycle the top about an inch towards the "closed" position, shove the bar back with your hand, and continue closing the top normally. That is the quickest way to diagnose and by far the most comment problem. I would keep this in mind regardless of what your prior shop has stated about elastics.

Thanks. I got the top down (where it is staying for now) using the 'armstrong' method. When it comes up again (closing is not a problem so far) I will check on the straps. Supposedly they are new. The car was in the trim shop for a couple of days while they were waiting on parts. (new straps)

I presume that they ordered and installed new straps. That said, what would new (NOS) be like? Or if truly new from a later model in current production were they 'correct' fit?

I have spoken to Lorenzo about this straps as well. Pretty sure I can 'engineer' a fix and not worth an 8 hour round trip to the dealer. There are plenty of 'garter' belts on EBay and I know how to sew. Just a small aggravation.

We are moving closer to Enzo's anyway so that will allay many apprehensions about the car.
 

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I will check on the straps. Supposedly they are new.
This is where my confusion stems from. The straps new span across the entire top assembly and require the top to be fully removed in order to install, which is very labor intensive. They are about $700 a piece (you need two). Unless you spent several thousand dollars as the top shop they did not install new OEM straps. I would avoid the dealer on this one - they are likely less experienced with problems like this than a shop that specializes in convertible tops, who are, in turn, likely less experienced than several members on this forum. This is really not an issue you want to start throwing money at since there is an effective, inexpensive, and easy fix readily available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is where my confusion stems from. The straps new span across the entire top assembly and require the top to be fully removed in order to install, which is very labor intensive. They are about $700 a piece (you need two). Unless you spent several thousand dollars as the top shop they did not install new OEM straps. I would avoid the dealer on this one - they are likely less experienced with problems like this than a shop that specializes in convertible tops, who are, in turn, likely less experienced than several members on this forum. This is really not an issue you want to start throwing money at since there is an effective, inexpensive, and easy fix readily available.
yep, that is my confusion. The dealer was waiting on parts and mentioned elastic straps in our discussion. When delivered I was told it had just come out of the trim shop. That is what has led me to believe that there are new straps in place. I guess I need to call the dealer and see exactly what was done.
 

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If you want to see what my $5 fix looks like, try this thread on SportsMaserati:


I put some photos in post #16. Lots of good help from other members. The whole straps thing is actually really simple but as others said, it benefits from a bit of fettling from someone who knows what’s what, rather than expensive parts/dealer mechanics etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you want to see what my $5 fix looks like, try this thread on SportsMaserati:


I put some photos in post #16. Lots of good help from other members. The whole straps thing is actually really simple but as others said, it benefits from a bit of fettling from someone who knows what’s what, rather than expensive parts/dealer mechanics etc.
Thanks! I saw this and that is what I had planned to do. Still want to know from dealer what they did - if they are new straps then why did it fail? Top when up and down fine for a couple of cycles after it came out of the trim shop - so something changed.
 
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