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Hey guys,

I am going to be doing a bit of "maintenance" on the car... I want to change the engine oil, but I also want to change the differential oil and the gearbox oil...

I have a few questions though:

1) What is the procedure for changing the differential oil?
2) What is the procedure for changing the gearbox oil?
3) Any other stuff you suggest me doing while I have the car on a lift?

Also, is Mobil 1 75w-90 good?
 

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Gearbox/Differential

Ali,
Mobil 1 75W-90 Full synthetic is the way to go... You aren't going to find better and the price is very good.
Secondly, on the bottom of the gearbox/differential is a brass plug, 16mm if I remember right, and you need to take it out and let it drain into the pan... Once it is drained you then need to re-install the plug, the torque settings are in your service manual, then take out the brass plus that is about 1/3 of the way up the gearbox on the passenger side of the car (22mm)... Fill the gearbox up until it starts to run out the hole, then put the plug back in and you are set to go... You can clean the screen if you want, it's the other brass plug next to the filler hole on the side of the gearbox, you take it out, rinse out the gunk and put it back in... Again the torque settings are in the book.. Your differential and gearbox are one in the same, the amount of oil is .74 gallons or 2.80 liters.. Mobil 1 comes in 1 liter jugs....

While on the lift, check your swing arm bushing to make sure they are in good shape... Also check the exhaust system for rust, etc...

Then go for a good drive to relax!!
 

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GrndLkNatv - Good description - thanks -was thinking of doing it as well since I have no record of when mine was done -my records show that the car had it's regular services but doesn't give the detail.

Question, if I'm only lifting the rear end, won't that throw off the amount added back in once drained ?
 

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The car needs to be level...

if you fill it via the filler plug on the transmission. If you are only lifting the rear then pull off the bottom cooler line,

(in the U.S. there is a plastic tube that comes off the tranny on the passenger side, does a loop, then goes back into the tranny about 1 inch apart, two fittings, one tube... Passenger side of the car.. In Europe they have a oil cooler, for some reason here they didn't)

put in the 2.8 liters via the line, but only 2.8 liters, no more, no less...


If it's level, put it in via the filler hole....
 

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Couldn't find the other brass plug for screen?

GrndLkNatv, thanks a lot for the help here. I had the car on the lift and believe I've got the location of the filler and two cooler plugs you're describing, but can't find the screen plug?? Here's a picture of the filler plug I think you're describing, with the metal-covered hose connecting the two cooler plugs visible as well. Could you point me in the direction of the screen plug from there? The only other possibility I saw was a plastic looking plug near the bottom of the tranny case that has a small 8mm bolt holding it in place?
 

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Look at Number 3 on the diagram, same side as the oil bypass on the American models which uses a cooler on the European models...





GrndLkNatv, thanks a lot for the help here. I had the car on the lift and believe I've got the location of the filler and two cooler plugs you're describing, but can't find the screen plug?? Here's a picture of the filler plug I think you're describing, with the metal-covered hose connecting the two cooler plugs visible as well. Could you point me in the direction of the screen plug from there? The only other possibility I saw was a plastic looking plug near the bottom of the tranny case that has a small 8mm bolt holding it in place?
First thing in the morning I will look this up for you and provide you with the answer....
 

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If you want reliable and first class performance from your engine and transmission look to Redline oils.

They are far superior to anything else. Their lubrication capability far exceeds what you your expect from national brands.

As to your tranny there is nothing that will enhance its full performance like Redline especially into 2nd gear when it's cold!

This is from the experience of credible Ferrari/Maserati mechanics and from my own personal usage.
 

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Thanks again GrndLkNatv, it was the piece I was guessing then. Too bad I've filled the oil already. I did fill this time around with Mobil 1 75w90 LS. With all the discussion around proper gear lubes I have been a bit nervous, considering the my relative success with the normal Mobil 1 75w90.

GCalo, if I could buy Red Line somewhere local, I'd be happy to try it....
 

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Thanks again GrndLkNatv, it was the piece I was guessing then. Too bad I've filled the oil already. I did fill this time around with Mobil 1 75w90 LS. With all the discussion around proper gear lubes I have been a bit nervous, considering the my relative success with the normal Mobil 1 75w90.

GCalo, if I could buy Red Line somewhere local, I'd be happy to try it....
If the Mobil 1 75W - 90 fails you, then they will buy you a tranny/gearbox. Read the back of the bottle. They stand up on that offer. A guy over at FerrariChat blew his engine and Mobil 1 offered to have the engine fully analyzed and the oil for free... People here completely blow the oil thing out of proportion here all the time. If Mobil 1 stinks so bad then why did McLaren run it all season long in their engines and gearboxes at RPM's that our cars could never fathom and never have a failure? It's the same stuff.. Dr. A.E. Haas is one of the foremost oil experts in the world and he shows you in chart form how Mobil 1 is just as good as any of the other oils including Royal Purple, etc... Do a Search for Haas Oil 101 on google..

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
 

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Just referring to the talk about the different needs of the gear box and synchro's in the tranny. I don't really know what the difference in properties is between Mobil 1's standard 75w90 and 75w90 LS, just that things seemed well with the 75w90 I put in about 18 months ago, and now I'm trying the LS.

Did you just rotate the oblong shaped cap about 90 degrees after removing the screw, and then tap it out? I'm able to rotate the cap a bit, but its in there pretty tight.

GCalo, I'm in the western suburbs of Chicago.
 

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Just referring to the talk about the different needs of the gear box and synchro's in the tranny. I don't really know what the difference in properties is between Mobil 1's standard 75w90 and 75w90 LS, just that things seemed well with the 75w90 I put in about 18 months ago, and now I'm trying the LS.

Did you just rotate the oblong shaped cap about 90 degrees after removing the screw, and then tap it out? I'm able to rotate the cap a bit, but its in there pretty tight.

GCalo, I'm in the western suburbs of Chicago.
I did exactly what you said, rotated it about 90 degrees then gently tapped it out using a small wooden dowel and my small ball peen hammer... If I remember right number 4 in the pict is a rubber O-Ring that slides over the tube and that is what causes it to be tight...
 

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Just to clarify, when you guys said

75W90 LS of redline oil, you really meant to say

75W90 NS, right? that's for, none-slip, or for the transaxles that has LSD and/or synchros.

I don't recall seeing anything labeled LS.

Jess
 

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The Mobil LS is formulated for limited slip differentials. It has the friction modifiers that keep the limited slip clutches from growling.

The Redline NS refers to no-sulfur. That is, it has no sulfur-based limited slip friction modifiers. It is intended for gearboxes rather than differentials. The sulfur can be bad for the metal used in gearbox synchronizers.

Now to look at the tricky aspect of our transaxles. We have a sychro gearbox and limited slip differential in the same box sharing the same lube. Therefore, we have conflicting lube requirements. Redline recommended using the NS and adding just enough separately packaged friction modifier to eliminate any growl from the limited slip unit during sharp cornering. I used this and have not experienced any growl with no modifier at all added.

As for the effects of sulfur based friction modifier on synchros, I had hoped for improved 1-2 shifting without the friction modifier. I realized no such benefit that I could detect.
 
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