Hi everyone, to reiterate what others are saying about bypassing... does that mean I can preemptively drain it to prevent the problem from ever happening? I live in Southern California so I don't need the heater.Mine started to show the signs a year ago and I did the bypass. Smelled the antifreeze, odd window fog. The bypass is easy, and preferable to removing the dash and/or having the gauges or electronics getting messed up.
Mileage and climate probably have nothing to do with if it fails, just more with when. I drive mine 80 miles a month, and baby it in the garage, yet it still happened.
First question, when doing the bypass you are unplugging the coolant in and out hoses from the firewall inside the engine bay. When you unplug each of those a good portion of coolant will drain from the heater core at the time. Be aware the heatercore isn't a large device so there won't be a ton that comes out. It's not like draining the entire coolant system.Hi everyone, to reiterate what others are saying about bypassing... does that mean I can preemptively drain it to prevent the problem from ever happening? I live in Southern California so I don't need the heater.
Second question, if a second hand Gransport had it fixed, would they have remedied the problem from happening again?
Just bypass the core, it'll take 10 minutes and cost $5. These cars are no fun to drive in weather which requires heat anyway.heater shut down
I have now for a few months a 2002 spyder with 29K miles on it. I bought it in the US in 2018. The seller never told me the central door lock is not working. Now it is shown the heater box is leaking and the relais is dead because of the leak. I think it is sold with this problem to me and i have now to repair it. Not a happy camper now, the repair is not sheap. I think i will do it myself with de replacement of the Saab core. Oh, i live in Europe Neherlands and yes, there are not much spyders in Europe. Everybody knew that the build of this car was not the most perfect one, and ttha is a understatement. But who cares it got 400+ horse, i drove it already with almost 300 km per our on the start and running way in the Netherlands:smile2:
Bars Leaks or Radweld and other such products work as a "get me home" fix. I have used these on older, simple basic iron block (not alu) engines with simple rad cooling and with cars that a heater (core) was an optional extra. These have even been cars taking part in international rallys, touring and some track races, in a pinch. With the advent of engine/cooling systems having mixed metal/material blocks, heads, rardiators, cores etc the flow and beahviour of such liquid products becomes far less predictible. I have been invloved with the engineering anaylsis of these and similar products for both the military and commerical aerospace industries, the results of which bore out my familys car expereince - they work on simple systems, with like metalic materials, in a pinch get me home event. I for one would NEVER EVER use them in my cars or airplanes unless I was very desperate - including the years I was bush piloting in Alaska, where there were events that were life threatening.Many years ago I had trouble with my inlet manifold leaking on my Triumph Stag, a renowned model with a marginal cooling system to say the least, so I decided to order the gaskets to sort the problem out and decided to get the gaskets from what most people see as the number 1 Triumph Stag guru in the world, when I told him what problem I was intending to sort his reply was "Stick a bottle of Radweld in the cooling system" So this brings me on to the heater core problems with the Maserati 4200, touch wood mine has been ok so far but it did get me wondering whether something like RadWeld or Barrs would fix a leaky heater core?