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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I purchased my 2005 Gransport last fall and the warranty is good for 1 more year. Very recently the clutch started to indicate problems. It started to smell like it was slipping / overheated. Has anyone ever had problems getting warranty on this type of thing or is it automatically covered no questions asked. I have never abused it or hardley even cut the tires loose. It has 11K
miles. Any feedback would be appreciated.
 

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You should have no issues what so ever getting this 100% taken care of. Mine showed signs of going, squealing loudly out of low gear, at 29K miles and even though the car was just out of warranty the dealer covered it 100%. One of the major reasons I knowingly paid a little more to buy from a certified Masi dealership known to stand behind what they sell.
 

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99% chances the clutch will not be covered under warranty because it's considered a wear part. A few exceptions occur when another part covered by warranty causes the clutch wear, like the throw out bearing, for example. But I doubt it's going to be the case since your car already has 11,000 miles.

Usually best case scenario is when they cover the labor and you pay for the clutch, around $1,300.

Good luck!
 

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Interesting, two completely different scenarios. What Nite says makes perfect sense as it is a wear part but I sure had better luck then what he describes. That being said, if they'd said to me we'll handle it but you'll need to fork out $1,300.00, to be honest I'd have been thrilled.

Good luck, please let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the 2 replies.......they are opposite ends of the spectrum though. It seems bizzare to me that a car with 1 year and 10's of thousands of miles of warranty left wouldn't be covered. Taken to an extreme what if the clutch on a 2 week old 09 Grand Torismo needed replaced at 250 miles? Then what. I have owned a lot of cars. We all know that clutches in properly designed /maintained cars last 80-200K miles. 11K miles would be unexceptable. That is why I paid more for a car still on warranty.
 

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GS,

I went on this forum after I started hearing the noise on my car and your comments are exactly the feedback I got. I bought the car used and out of factory warranty but the issue started happening within a 30 day period of when I bought the car. The advice was go back to the dealer, be positive but firm and presumptuous that this was absolutely not acceptable, let's get it handled and I am assuming you, the dealer, will pick up 100% the costs.

That's exactly what I did and it was handled exactly as I described at N/C. Great people, they even picked it up at my front door and delivered it back a few days later.

You are in a much better position then I was b'c you have a full warrantied car, I'd sure be taking that same attitude.
 

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The clutch is a wear part, just like a brake pad...

The f1 system gives up clutch life in exchange for performance. The 11k you have out of your clutch shows that you do not know how to use a f1 tranny most likely.
 

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I respectfully disagree. Yes clutches wear out but are not considered in the same category as say tires. Clutches are supposed to last at least as long as the original warranty, unlike tires. Just about all moving parts eventually wear out but they are all supposed to last thru the warranty period, unless specifically excluded in the warranty jargon.



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The clutch is a wear part, just like a brake pad...

The f1 system gives up clutch life in exchange for performance. The 11k you have out of your clutch shows that you do not know how to use a f1 tranny most likely.
Probably better to give him the benefit of the doubt first and ask how he drives the car rather then to make assumptions, IMO, b'c he may very well have a faulty clutch right? But OK in the interest of the thread and clutch preservation are there things we need to be doing regularly other than avoiding reverse when possible and always driving with the paddles in sport mode?
 

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2005Gransport, sdscardino and Michaeladler, I agree with all of you, but that's not how the Maserati world is. Lots of us here have been through the same problem and had the same disapointment... I know it's hard to believe a clutch would last only 11,000 miles, but that's what it is. Some here had it replaced after a mere 5,000 miles or less.

I tried to put up a fight, argued with the dealer who did my PPI, the local dealer, and even contacted MNA. But the best I got was free labor...

That doesn't mean you shouldn't fight for it. Actually, if you don't fight you're not even going to get the free labor! Unfortunately, that's how it is.

Do a search on my threads and you'll see my battle.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
99% chances the clutch will not be covered under warranty because it's considered a wear part. A few exceptions occur when another part covered by warranty causes the clutch wear, like the throw out bearing, for example. But I doubt it's going to be the case since your car already has 11,000 miles.

Usually best case scenario is when they cover the labor and you pay for the clutch, around $1,300.

Good luck!
Thanks for the "good luck" .........I'd rather hope to have a "good car" and or "good warranty". It would seem if I had both I would have nothing to worry about.
 

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We all know that clutches in properly designed /maintained cars last 80-200K miles. 11K miles would be unexceptable.
you will never get 80K-200K miles out of an exotic car's clutch. Clutches on Maserati's Cambiocorsa equipped cars usually last 18K - 22K miles. Some get more, some get less. As with any wear part, how the car is driven makes a big difference.

The original owner of my car replaced the clutch at just 12,920 miles.



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Last year, I had to replace my clutch at 12K miles - car covered under warranty till sometime in 2010 but, clutch was not. I had to pony out $4K.
 

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Last year, I had to replace my clutch at 12K miles - car covered under warranty till sometime in 2010 but, clutch was not. I had to pony out $4K.
Wow, that sux V. I had a total opposite experience and my car had around 29K miles and no warranty. I suppose allot of this depends on the individual dealer. Be interesting to see how it plays out. Please do let us know GS. I hope your experience is more like mine.

What do you feel is the optimal way to drive the car for maximum clutch lastage?
 

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Wow, that sux V. I had a total opposite experience and my car had around 29K miles and no warranty. I suppose allot of this depends on the individual dealer. Be interesting to see how it plays out. Please do let us know GS. I hope your experience is more like mine.

What do you feel is the optimal way to drive the car for maximum clutch lastage?
Yea - I was pretty miffed. Soon after the clutch job, I installed FD's DBW for two reasons 1) better driving performance and 2) a belief in the theory that the unit may preserve clutch life. I'm going to be taking my car in for service here in the next week or two so, it will be interesting to get the SD3 readouts on the clutch wear after putting about 4K miles on the car with the DBW.

Since the jury hasn't yet reported in on the effects of the DBW on clutch life (we should all report in on this as we get information), my personal advice is the following:

  • Minimize use of reverse as it accelerates wear
  • Minimize travel in stop & go traffic - since it's unavoidable at times, let the car in front get some distance ahead to reduce the number of launches from a dead stop
  • Most wear will occur when you're launching from a stop. The objective here is to get the clutch to fully engage as quickly as possible. Once the car gets rolling, try not to second-guess the clutch mechanism by feathering the gas....just put your foot into a bit more to get under speed
  • When shifting under acceleration, no need to lift between shifts
  • When rolling to a stop, I shift to -N- just like I would if I'm driving my 6-sp BMW 5 series
 

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Yea - I was pretty miffed. Soon after the clutch job, I installed FD's DBW for two reasons 1) better driving performance and 2) a belief in the theory that the unit may preserve clutch life. I'm going to be taking my car in for service here in the next week or two so, it will be interesting to get the SD3 readouts on the clutch wear after putting about 4K miles on the car with the DBW.

Since the jury hasn't yet reported in on the effects of the DBW on clutch life (we should all report in on this as we get information), my personal advice is the following:

  • Minimize use of reverse as it accelerates wear
  • Minimize travel in stop & go traffic - since it's unavoidable at times, let the car in front get some distance ahead to reduce the number of launches from a dead stop
  • Most wear will occur when you're launching from a stop. The objective here is to get the clutch to fully engage as quickly as possible. Once the car gets rolling, try not to second-guess the clutch mechanism by feathering the gas....just put your foot into a bit more to get under speed
  • When shifting under acceleration, no need to lift between shifts
  • When rolling to a stop, I shift to -N- just like I would if I'm driving my 6-sp BMW 5 series
Great shifting info, thx allot. Other than the when rolling to a stop shift to -N-, which I will now adopt, I've been pretty much playing by those rules when possible. The other I've seen and been doing is always drive in sport with paddles.

Look very fwd to seeing your DBW test results as my clutch has only 5M miles and this is something I've been considering as well.

S-
 

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There has always been quite a bit of range in the number of miles a clutch lasts. The biggest factor in clutch mileage is city/hiway driving. Stop and go traffic will wear the clutch more quickly and open highway miles will make it last longer. It all boils down to the number of launches and the number of gear changes.

I'm not sure if shifting to "N" while rolling to a stop helps much. While on the brake, the Cambiocorsa unit shouldn't have the clutch engaged anyway. Am I wrong on this?



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I'm not sure if shifting to "N" while rolling to a stop helps much. While on the brake, the Cambiocorsa unit shouldn't have the clutch engaged anyway. Am I wrong on this?
You're correct - clutch is not engaged when stopped and foot is on the brake. I also agree that it's questionable how much clutch plate wear is avoided by shifting to -N- but, I don't manually downshift my 5-series manual in every gear when slowing down to a light so, I figure that there is overall less component wear all things considered.
 
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