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Front end alignment specs.

24465 Views 106 Replies 30 Participants Last post by  sdfsd99958
At 32k miles I am on my 3rd set of front tires for my 2014 Gran Turismo S. I have had a couple of alignments one indy shop , one dealer to factory spec, but the inner fronts still seem to wear out at about 15k miles. I'm guessing that a tad less negative camber might solve this issue without affecting handling too much.


Has any one out there found alignment specs for the front that keep the car from eating front tires? If so could you please share them with me

Thanks,
MIchael
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Yeah, those kinda suck..Your caster is way off on the left and the car and the car will probably pull to the right slightly...The caster needs to be within a degree of each other...Plus you are toe-out and that is gonna make the tires wear on the inside...You adjust the caster with the shims on the upper control arm...Jason
Definitely want a touch more positive toe.
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With the sole exception of the front tires toe, which is set at just “a smidge“ positive from neutral ( about 0.25 ) I have all other settings at factory specs. I’m experiencing very even wear for the entire life of the tires.
+1
I didn't specify but I was also referring to the front toe.
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hi all, been a long time since I've been on here (been driving the model s primarily for the last three years), but now that the wife's SUV died and WFH is coming to an end, I'm back in the Granturismo more often.

went to replace dry rotted, worn, and separating tires and as always, inner wear on the fronts despite toeing in last alignment. the cheap shop that I usually go to ($40 for a 4 wheel hunter alignment!) has switched techs and the new guy is useless. he set it to -0.10 up front despite me telling him +0.02, and then laughed at me when I tried to get him to fix it. needless to say, they lost a 10+ year customer who went several times a year for multiple vehicles.

so, now that I know what the car is at, can anyone estimate degrees per tie-rod turn? I intend to get it close to where I want it and then get it checked somewhere else.

(edit: to be clear, I'm at -0.10 up front and want to get to +0.06)
So how much would the car being lowered change any of the alignment settings or at all? I'm looking for a shop to look at mine now and try to figure out why my steering wheel is off center and check the alignment out while there.
When you lower them it gets harder to get the camber in spec...You kinda run out of adjustment and are at the wide end of the spec., but it is doable...Getting it aligned should correct the steering wheel, but occasionally you have to adjust the wheel slightly even when a car come off the alignment rack...Jason
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I would just like to confirm so I don’t mess this up. I would like to get an alignment to help with even tire wear. I read the entire thread and just want to make sure this is what I should show the shop for the best tire wear. Thanks
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Yes, that looks good..J
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At 32k miles I am on my 3rd set of front tires for my 2014 Gran Turismo S. I have had a couple of alignments one indy shop , one dealer to factory spec, but the inner fronts still seem to wear out at about 15k miles. I'm guessing that a tad less negative camber might solve this issue without affecting handling too much.


Has any one out there found alignment specs for the front that keep the car from eating front tires? If so could you please share them with me

Thanks,
MIchael
You use the stock settings, but toe-in the front (+).06 on each side...They toe them out from the factory and that causes all the tire wear..Jason
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can anyone estimate degrees per tie-rod turn?

(I'm at -0.10 up front and want to get to +0.06)
anyone? I know it's not an exact measurement, just a really rough estimate. thanks all!
Hey everyone is there any info for MC Stradale 2013?
At 10K , I see a 1/32nd difference between the inner and outer edges on fronts. Rears are dead even...Factory setting ....watching. All Pzeros. Rear ar 4/32nds. fronts still at 8/32nds. Rear off within 1000 miles or when rainy season approaches.
A year later at 15K, my inner edges are now almost gone. Rest of tire is dead even....but, because I want to pull the 2 front wheels and let my wheel shop tweak my earlier season corrections prior to mounting new rubber...and because its going to be sleepytime soon so no need to mount new tires and put to sleep, I am going to book an alignment this fall. Its ONLY the inner edge and if you just add 2psi, any affect by that on alignment machine which would be negligible anyway is basically eliminated.
Going for zero toe up front, will not let it get more than.12 total toe in ...tend to like zero on most of my cars up front. Will let rears remain stock as original tires wore to 2/32nds dead even. I may let them give me a few more tenths of negative camber because it will see a track day annually and any extra inner edge wear will be neutralized in a day on track (last day I ran 2/32nds off tires in 1 day). Funny how the track day this summer really got those inner edges....great forum for stuff like this!
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After all this time, has anyone ever printed the factory specs. I know someone typed them out with all the =?- bs a few years back, but with today's ideal machines, precision is readily achievable.
So far factory front seems to be toe out (ridiculous #), caster 4.0 and camber is the one I can't discern. I am striving for -1 based on needs.
Rear seems .33 total toe, and I see -1.3-1.8 camber.

My thoughts are if I dial out the front toe I can add a bit of camber for my occasional track needs readily. I will attempt to keep caster spot on at 4.0.
In the rear, I'd like to add camber but not enough to increase understeer based on what front can achieve. Thinking _1.8?? and reduce rear total toe to ~.25.
Love to think what you alignment expert s feel about these slight tweeks. Rear tire rear was pretty damn good last summer , so my changes will be based on what it was set at already. Outer edges did wear a bit more, but nothing terrible. It's hard to evaluate the fronts because the inner edges are much more worn than the outer.....even though outer not badly rolled...guess I had the hot pressures nailed at ~40-41 as the day progressed. I am booked the 27th.....it comes home and goes to sleep that day. New shoes in spring. So it will sleep with jack stands till wheels trued up....damn paving!!!
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#29 · Jun 14, 2017 Put these somewhere easier to find!




CORRECT FACTORY ALIGNMENT SPECS AND CHANGES FOR BETTER WEAR

In case this helps anyone in the future.... These are the specs that I got from the amazing guys at Formula Dynamics in case the data my mechanic was pulling was inaccurate.

"Here is the factory spec...

Factory Alignment Settings
Front Toe: -2mm (Total Toe Out) ****Per Jason above and other sources, DO NOT TOE OUT! On the toe, it should actually have slight toe-in...about +.25
Rear Toe: +4mm (Total Toe In) **** Reduce Toe towards neutral if wearing prematurely
Front Camber: -0°30’
Rear Camber: -1°30’
Castor: Stock Setting (typically +4 35' +- 6')

I would suggest the customer compares his current alignment to the factory spec provided above. If he is off, just correct it. If he is close to spec and still having problems, he can try to reduce the camber even further and also reduce the toe setting to be more neutral. The only problem will be how much adjustment the shop is able to actually achieve, the factory adjusters don't allow for a lot of adjustment. "
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This is what the manual ignores...manual is pretty poor on the Maserati. My Lotus has ALL of this info! We will max out the front and set rear accordingly to keep balance.
anyone ever find threaded pucks to fit into lift points
2
He we go. Before was TERRIBLE.
As is result of compromises, most we'd get in caster world was 3.5 so we both liked the camber and of course 0.0 toe. Yea Tony is GOOD! Dialed back the rear toe just a smig as we were able to get a bit more rear camber to balance the front so as not change the over/unsteer too much

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Looks good! Bet it feels like a whole different car now!
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