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I read that Ferrari/Maserati engineering couldn't care less about tire ware, they just designed for (as they saw it) performance.
 

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Consider that most folks don't DD this car. With no big trip planned this season, I will probably see ~3000 miles. So you wear out rears every 3+ yrs. Perfect
You wear out a set of fronts every 5yrs. Perfect....
 

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2013 GTS Coupe
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Consider that most folks don't DD this car.
Hmm, that would be an interesting poll, I was under the impression that a majority of the folks on this forum use theirs as a DD. :unsure: But not sure why I think that, perhaps because we seem to have quite a bit of traffic ( no pun intended ) on the forum ...I could be wrong though ..
 

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I got mine done last week, factory specs are pretty wild the guy said. I went with barely any negative all the way round. Drives very smooth.
Someone else said it best: they did not care about tires at the factory!
My guess is the aggressive alignment was to make the car seem to handle better and not weigh 5,000 pounds.
 
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Negative what? You really only wanted to change the front toe slightly positive...The rest of the settings are pretty spot on...Jason
 
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Negative what? You really only wanted to change the front toe slightly positive...The rest of the settings are pretty spot on...Jason
This. Negative camber is needed to keep full possible contact patch of tires during cornering ( both inside tires and out ) to compensate for camber gains and loss. I would venture a guess the the toe out is leading factor here for inner shoulder front tire wear. From my limited time with this car ( 2k miles and 30 days ) , feels somewhat twitchy and darting up to 80 or so. I have just installed tires ( due to inner shoulder wear ) and had to cancel a rack appointment, to see where I'm at and adjust. Sits a little low and the long wheel base would not allow us to get it on his Hunter. This things a barge, not really made for autocross where you need a little help with turn in. Will post my specs when we get this done, going to go strait up toe with the front and leave the rear as it sits ( toe in for behavior ) and factory negative camber specs on all corners . Disclaimer as always YMMV
 
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This. Negative camber is needed to keep full possible contact patch of tires during cornering ( both inside tires and out ) to compensate for camber gains and loss. I would venture a guess the the toe out is leading factor here for inner shoulder front tire wear. From my limited time with this car ( 2k miles and 30 days ) , feels somewhat twitchy and darting up to 80 or so. I have just installed tires ( due to inner shoulder wear ) and had to cancel a rack appointment, to see where I'm at and adjust. Sits a little low and the long wheel base would not allow us to get it on his Hunter. This things a barge, not really made for autocross where you need a little help with turn in. Will post my specs when we get this done, going to go strait up toe with the front and leave the rear as it sits ( toe in for behavior ) and factory negative camber specs on all corners . Disclaimer as always YMMV
The front tire wear is from the toe-out....Stock settings with +(.06) toe-in on the front instead of the factory toe out...That is the setting I suggested years back and seems to fix the tire wear issue...Jason
 

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And remember that RWD cars dynamics already cause a very slight outward push of the front wheels, and that’s only exacerbated by a toe-out factory setting.
 

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All right then gentleman, I'll take the recommendation and slight toe in it is over neutral (y). Rears were wearing nice and symmetrical / even
 

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My car has been setup by a race shop (do suspension work for le mans cars) by hand (using a wire and measuring tape). They never looked for factory specs, just setup using their knowledge about RWD cars. Inside still wears more, but it is only about 0.5-1mm worse compared to the outside. My fronts have been on car now for 15k miles and fronts still have enough life for another 15k. Rears are about done.
With this setup the rear feels more in line with the front when changing direction/cornering.

I have attached the official setup sheet
View attachment 134617
What model is that ?
 
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You are still toe-out of the front, but the amount is so small it probably won't matter..I would just check tire wear for the first 2k miles...Turn the car to full steering lock and look across the front tires.. J
 
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Are the tires directional or RWL? Why not remount the tires to extend life?
That’s what I’m going to do. I have Michelin’s (Pilot Sport multidirectional) and my local alignment guy set my alignment as close to neutral as he could (he ran out of adjustment) $65. Car handles and tracks better. Prolly going to need rears soon ( squeal varoom ) LOL
 
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