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Must have tempted fate talking about alternators. Took my 2012 (with only 33k miles) for a ride this morning and got the dreaded battery light. Checked my alternator and it's not charging. Guess I know what I'll be doing next weekend. Ordered a new repalcement a few moments ago.
 

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Any multimeter will do and you ought to see some indication that it's charging both in the engine compartment and/or back at the battery. If your battery is in good shape you ought to see something like 13.5-15vdc for most vehicles. Mine with the engine running isn't charging the battery at all so it's sitting at 12.6vdc.
 

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What is an EV line? I assume you had a lift? Or did you put the car on stands? I really hate working under a car on stands..... I have done it more times than I could ever remember, but I always hate it lol...
The EV lines are the high pressure hydraulic lines that run from the power unit to the actuator and clutch. The actuator lines are labeled EV1-EV5, then there's one for the clutch.

No, no lift. I just jacked it up on stands and rolled underneath using a crawler. I used to hate getting under cars too, but in this case, dropping the tranny is much easier to me without a lift. That way, you have less drop distance and you can easily slide it out and operate like a surgeon. The clutch line has a quick release, which allows you to disconnect in seconds without affecting the pressure to the clutch, the ebrake gets disconnected, the exhaust dropped (tape the exhaust holes to protect your paint!) and there are 8 bolts securing the subframe and a few on the torque tube. That's it.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Must have tempted fate talking about alternators. Took my 2012 (with only 33k miles) for a ride this morning and got the dreaded battery light. Checked my alternator and it's not charging. Guess I know what I'll be doing next weekend. Ordered a new repalcement a few moments ago.
Dang!! Talk about bad timing!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
The EV lines are the high pressure hydraulic lines that run from the power unit to the actuator and clutch. The actuator lines are labeled EV1-EV5, then there's one for the clutch.

No, no lift. I just jacked it up on stands and rolled underneath using a crawler. I used to hate getting under cars too, but in this case, dropping the tranny is much easier to me without a lift. That way, you have less drop distance and you can easily slide it out and operate like a surgeon. The clutch line has a quick release, which allows you to disconnect in seconds without affecting the pressure to the clutch, the ebrake gets disconnected, the exhaust dropped (tape the exhaust holes to protect your paint!) and there are 8 bolts securing the subframe and a few on the torque tube. That's it.

Wow, sounds pretty straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Ok guys. The verdict is in. I have some very funny and interesting pics to show off haha... Take a seat. I present, the internals of my overheated (was smoking) alternator 🤣. Notice anything crooked?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Really makes me wonder what started the failure. I was racing a Jaguar F-Type R a day or 2 prior and we were REALLY hitting it for a while. I stretched out the f136 legs and it kicked me back lol. I have the new one im installing this evening. Cars been sitting without a battery for about 2 weeks. So I hope its not going to yell at me and say stuff broke... Stay tuned.
 

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4.2 and 4.7 wet sump ones should be the same...I wouldn't want a used one as you have a used one and it just failed....I also can't behind a rebuilt one..Lots of cheap Chinese components are being used to rebuild them cheaply...Several folks have tried reman. on on here and they haven't even last 1 year....I would pony up for a brand new OE one IMO....Jason
I had my alternator fail a few months ago, and I took @[email protected] Enzo`s Atlanta advice and just bought a new one. The instructions here are very good. If you plan to replace yourself, don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions.

I would just go ahead and replace the gaskets anyway since you're in there already. Also, I went ahead and cleaned the fuel injectors and intake manifold (again, you're in there already, might as well).

Best wishes
 

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Intake gaskets don't need to be renewed unless you damage one. And yes, #4 is the one that pinches if you only lift the front of the manifold instead of removing it completely. If you can get those green gaskets for $8 each, then that's a decent deal. I think I paid $35-$50 each at the dealer.

As for the valve cover gaskets, they notoriously leak exactly where you are describing. The lobes on the firewall side don't always seat perfectly. I started only ordering the Ferrari gaskets in lieu of the Maserati ones because of the quality of the rubber and seams, etc. I can't guarantee it helps, but when comparing the parts next to each other, there are differences in what appears to be quality.
Hi Erik, are those gaskets from the F430?

Thanks for your info!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Just an update, I installed the new alternator the other day. The damn passenger side bolt aggravated me a bit...... It just wouldn't align properly for a while. But eventually went in. Put most everything together enough to start the engine and see what happens. Had 13.5V roughly at all times 😁. The electric door buttons didn't work at first but I quickly figured out how to reprogram that. All good!

I have not drove it anywhere yet as I didn't install the wipers or any of the plastics yet and its been raining. I will be changing the valve cover gasket/s next, so no sense in installing all the plastics.
 

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Nice job getting yours fixed, I put my new alternator in this afternoon as well along with the left cam cover gasket that I didn't get around to last week.

My old one only had 33k and didn't look anywhere near as bad as yours, the bearings were good in mine, so probably just bad brushes or a shorted diode so I'll go ahead and repair it for a spare down the road.

The job wasn't too bad, took about 3 hours but I've still got to put the wiper tray assembly back in tomorrow morning after I verify that there aren't any leaks and that will probably take another hour. My alternator wouldn't come out with the cooling hose to the heat exchanger in place (that sits right behind the alternator) so had to remove that also.

The intake gaskets were in good shape (like Jason said they would be) so I reused them.


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