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I’m no mechanic but I’d bet Jason is right. (Here’s a shot of my oil heat exchanger replacement) And in my opinion (as an owner of an IT company), I’d suggest to ALWAYS follow the data. But that’s your choice! And I wish you the very best and hope you figure it out!
 
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I follow data as well, but car repair is honestly a lot different I suspect than IT work...True story..Someone called me this week for help with a 4200..One side of the engine runs poorly...We talk a bit and he says BTW I think a rodent got into engine compartment as we found a nest under the hood...There isn't a lot of data for what a rat can F-up....J
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I am following the data...a live capture showed the alternator not charging as it should have....as well as Jason's advice. I'm no pro mechanic, but I've worked on cars for many moons, ever since I was a kid helping my pro-mechanic Grandpa work on stuff. Of course he never worked on anything this advanced but basics are basics.

This is a pretty straightforward basic job as far as that goes. Unbolt a bunch of stuff that's in the way and put it all back together again. :)

Now if it doesn't start after doing this.... then I'll be back to have some words for Jason...... ;) Kidding of course. I know this needs to be done, if it doesn't solve the no start issue then I'll follow the data to the next thing in line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Well so far this hasn't been really as bad as I thought it might be. Once I got the cowl and wipers out it's pretty simple. The back bolt and fuel injector plug on the passenger side was a bit fiddly to get out but not bad.

Old alternator out. New one in already. Only problem now is I didn't realize the water pump belt is stretch to fit and I don't have the doodad for doing that one.

I might just put things back together without the new belts and swap them later. Should be easy enough to get to with just taking the filter box out.

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
And good news/bad news....got it all back together, well minus the trim covers. But no love. Still doing the same thing. The F1 pump is still not coming on when I open the door so that's my next direction to look.

Gonna see if there are any codes to pull first. Then I'll go from there.

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Sooo, looking around. The manual doesn't show the 50 amp relay to the left of the fuse panel in the trunk. I'm guessing that may be the F1 relay so pulled it and it tested fine, good resistance across the switch side and pops when power is applied.

So looking at the list in the manual for all the fuses I just started pulling them to see what I'd find. Well, lookey there, the green 30 amp maxi fuse is blown and it shows as a blank in the manual. So I'm guessing maybe it's related to the unlisted relay? I dunno but I don't have any spare maxi fuses so will go grab some tomorrow and see if that solves my problem.

Could it really be that simple?

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Well so far this hasn't been really as bad as I thought it might be. Once I got the cowl and wipers out it's pretty simple. The back bolt and fuel injector plug on the passenger side was a bit fiddly to get out but not bad.

Old alternator out. New one in already. Only problem now is I didn't realize the water pump belt is stretch to fit and I don't have the doodad for doing that one.

I might just put things back together without the new belts and swap them later. Should be easy enough to get to with just taking the filter box out.

View attachment 143094
FYI: I can ship you the doodad for the stretch fit water pump belt, you pay the shipping. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Did you jump the relay? Probably not..Fuses just don't wear out...J
Do you mean jump the circuit with the relay removed, no. If you mean power the relay, yes and it checked fine, clicks right over and no resistance while powered up.

So grabbed a couple fuses today and at least got the car started. But as you can probably guess the fuse blew again. But it gave me a chance to run codes and see what it was saying which is further than I was before. This time got a transmission failure and low pump pressure P1778 active code.

But it was good just hear it run, it's been a few weeks!!
 
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Yes, but it sounds like something is wrong the pump at this point...Youtube how to jump a relay ....you connect 30 & 87...You can look on the relay as well for a little schematic on the side ...It will probably blow the fuse again, but feel the pump this time and see if it feels hot....Jason
 
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Yes, but it sounds like something is wrong the pump at this point...Youtube how to jump a relay ....you connect 30 & 87...You can look on the relay as well for a little schematic on the side ...It will probably blow the fuse again, but feel the pump this time and see if it feels hot....Jason
So jumping the circuit I'm sure would blow the fuse again but I don't really need to do that since the relay seems to be working fine and tested fine. Only something like $10 for a new relay so will probably grab a new one anyway.

I agree it's probably the pump and that's the direction I'm heading. With the new fuse and the relay plugged in the pump did come on to prime when I opened the door. Only stayed on a few seconds like normal. I was able to get in and get the car started but then I'm guessing the fuse blew again and that's when the transmission code popped up. (I know the fuse blew but guessing as to exactly when).

The other bonus other than hearing it run again, was that I apparently got everything back together ok after the alternator replacement, it started and ran and I didn't see any leaks anywhere. :) Didn't leave it running long to see if it was charging good or not, should have looked at that while I had it up and going but wanted to get to the trans codes first.
 
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