Maserati Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
4200 Manual
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With electronics sorted for the my Coupe GT, I did do an Headunit upgrade and plan to upgrade the audio for the car. There are many threads about it that helped me out a lot.

The questions I am now facing is whether it is possible to acces the speakers in the doors seperately. For this I would need to have seperate wires to them. Does anyone know if there is room for extra contacts in the connector for the doors? Which terminals would be needed to fit into the connector?

Thanks,
Michael
 

·
Registered
4200 Manual
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
IIRC there are only two wires from the headunit to the speakers, that split into two for the two speakers each door. Using one Amp-Channel per Speaker, i would need to have another cable routed through the door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
damichi, I don't have the answer to your question, but I would love to see a pic of your head unit install. I am in the process of upgrading mine as well.
 

·
Registered
4200 Manual
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry, I only have a screenshot from a video I recorded for the alcantara headliner. I did the 3d printed Edwin bezel for now. Don't worry it's not going to stay blue. I do plan to get a bit better fitment (it's actually already good), add the Hazard switch as well as a volume knob to the bezel and print it again. Headunit is a very shallow Android one for a total of 60 bucks. Sound quality is decent and on par with the original speakers. Bear in mind, that internally these Android units dont have the same audio quality for Bluetooth as for the Android part. Otherwise these units are great as you can install every android app on them and have Google Maps.

If you use the sound from the Android part there is even good sound quality for the pre-outs with some units even supporting digital music interfaces.
All in all the headunit install was about 2 hours, there is actually no big deal if the unit is small enough to stay as one piece.

With a headunit this small you can fit 8 amplifier channels and a small DSP where the NIT unit was.
If all goes to plan sound quality should not be too shabby with everything being reversible and very clean. Subwoofer location seem to be the hard part for these cars.

Cheers,
Michael
 

·
Registered
4200 Manual
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great, I have seen your pictures of them. How much volume is there under the speaker? Do they move enough air for bass?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
749 Posts
Great, I have seen your pictures of them. How much volume is there under the speaker? Do they move enough air for bass?
I'll give you a review once its set up. Everything is a compromise on this car, but it will still be better than stock and I won't be sacrificing boot space! There is enough volume under the shelf to justify it though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
749 Posts
If you can hang on a few weeks, I'm waiting on some 3D printed brackets to make the whole thing work without modifying it. If it works I can make all the bits available to you and show you how I went about fitting and wiring everything.
 

·
Registered
4200 Manual
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah sure, especially as a woofer in the trunk would only be able to make some rumble instead of clean bass.
Where can I find those drivers you are using?
Some guy on the forum used the Focal Be 5,5 inch woofers and was pretty content. But I fear a pair of those are above my price range.

I am looking forward to see what you think of it.

I assume there will be no luck in finding these terminals for the connector, I assume?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
749 Posts
The driver's were cheap, like $40AUD cheap - but the actual specs are better than a lot brand name stuff for the size. Local brand I believe, but I'll check again when I'm home in a week or so. Everything is a compromise because I want to maintain the original fit, these were literally the largest subs I could fit without modifying anything but they barely fit. I'm making some printed standoffs so I can seal them against the parcel shelf to get a sealed volume inside it. I'm also planning to put both the amps under the shelf, so I'll need to remove the sound deadening to make it all fit. I'm planning to pull all the connectors off my old speakers and use the factory wiring. All the other speakers I'm using are Kicker. These are the front speakers KICKER | KS Series 6.5" Components
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
I assume there will be no luck in finding these terminals for the connector, I assume?
Disconnecting the door connection block will throw an airbag warning light - unless you know a workaround. Resetting the light requires SD2/Launch, etc. However, there are plenty of spare positions in the block - which uses Sicma-2 or Sicma-3 1.5mm male & female terminal crimps.

Part #s 211CL2S2160 and 211CC2S2230.
 

·
Registered
4200 Manual
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you so much, I will try that.

To avoid the airbag warning light, just disconnect the battery and wait 30 Minutes before unplugging any airbag related connectors. This worked perfectly for the Steering wheel and passenger airbag I had to disconnect for the heater core job.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,774 Posts
Correct. Just make sure you re-connect all the airbags before re-connecting the battery :)

C
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
I wills second lambertius' suggestions - go with a matched component set in the front. You can bury the crossover in the door and run them off the factory wiring. I believe that the crossover filters are mounted to the drivers themselves, so there is no filtering in the wiring to contend with. If you are looking for a rear shelf woofer find something that is outside the realm of major manufacturer (as the large companies do not produce something that small). I have the focal 5.5". Frankly, I am not impressed for the price point.

In the US there is a company called "parts express" that sells a variety of speaker components - I am sure there is something similar in the EU. You just want a subwoofer (not woofer) that fits and is 4ohms or under. Doesn't matter if it is labeled as automotive or not. You will need to develop an enclosure for it. A simple MDF box that fits and bolts to the shelf using the woofer mounting holes would likely be sufficient.

Be aware: In my spyder the rear speakers and subwoofer were wired into the same channel from the factory. I would imagine the couple is the same since it came with a set of rear panel and deck speakers (likely the same wiring convention for those two). You will likely need to abandon the factory wiring for the subs and run something directly from your sub amp.
 

·
Registered
4200 Manual
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Going with a matched set is a yes and no. For this car there are multiple possibilities for me. One is going with an 8 inch sub each door and midrange speakers inside the outer vent holes.
Another one is more conventional using existing components that work very well together. I do have a Focal 6,5 ich speaker set for the doors, but I did not like the tweeters from the set, so I bought a pair of Hertz Mille 280.3 that suit really my liking.
Nearly each sound system I installed in a car used fully active amps and DSP because of the flexibility you get from that. Combining different speakers to my linking is only one of them.

I am quite unsure if any combination of small subwoofers from the parcel shelf is able to deliver desireable bass that is significantly more than just a good front system. I am very interested about the results lambertious gets with his setup.

Lets see where this goes.

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
749 Posts
I havne't been able to get to this yet! I made a few incorrect measurements so my 3D prints were off, and then I made an impromtu trip to Sydney while there was no lockdown, I hadn't seen my family in two years!


It is still on the agenda, and I'm waiting on some new prints.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top