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DIY Oil Change - 2005 Spyder

46K views 34 replies 25 participants last post by  lenkwoodworking 
#1 ·
Since I am not even close to the first 6000 mile maintenance schedule and I would like to perform an interim oil change myself, I have a question:

What are the torque values for the oil tank drain bolt and the engine sump drain bolt?

(I am assuming there is a engine sump drain bolt - that was mentioned in another thread after doing a search of this site)
 
#2 · (Edited)
I like to do minor mechanic'an and the occasional oil change myself to get a sense of how a car is put together. One learns some interesting stuff along the way. For my first oil change on a Maser, I followed the work with some pictures.

Tools needed:

22mm socket and a 12MM hex driver. For this time, I could only find a 12mm L -Allen wrench instead of the perferred 12mm hex driver socket. Perferred due to the limited access available. So of course, with the L-Allen wrench, I busted my knuckles - Angelina got her first taste of blood.
 

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#3 ·
Locate the rubber plug that covers the access hole to the oil tank drain plug. Easy enough except we are dealing with Italian production quality here. Thus stacked tolerances on my particular model meant the access hole and drain plug did not line up. This resulted in having to partially remove the tray under the front spoiler - not a difficult task just some extra time needed.
 

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#22 · (Edited)
Help!



In the pic below, does anyone know what the brass plug is just to the right & behind what BCube has labeled as the OIL PLUG? I got carried away and also removed this one and have no idea what I just drained! Need help immediately!!! Now I'm feeling like I should have ponied up the $$ for the dealer to do this.

Here's Brian's pic
http://www.maseratilife.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1291&d=1165262942

To me, it seemed like engine oil drained out....and not very much either. Please tell me it's just another oil drain plug. :(

Jeff?
 
#6 ·
After draining the motor and oil tank, reinstall the filter applying some oil on the filter rubber gasket and reinsert the drain plugs with new washers. With no torque values -other than on the oil filter - I decided to apply my "german" engineering background. I recalibrated my elbow and applied torque until "gutentight." Actually just a good firm snug. Added seven quarts of 5-40 and idled the motor to warm up the oil and checked for leaks. With the engine idling and the oil warm, i added oil to the "max" level on the stick. The motor took about 7.8 quarts.
 
#7 ·
Brian:

Thanks much! Very informative post! Its nice to see that Maserati isn't the only manufacturer to put the oil filter in a location that dumps oil all over everything when you spin it off! :rolleyes:

When I take the filter off my Jalpa, it dumps all over the top of the oil pan and runs all over the place.

The Alfa 164 I had was pretty bad too. When you took the filter off, it dumped all down the side of the oil pan, onto the steering rack, and into the motor mount. Must be an Italian thing... hahahaa....

I haven't had the privilege of changing the oil on my '02 Coupe yet. But, this post will really help. Thanks again!
 
#10 ·
#11 · (Edited)
ceegar said:
What kind of oil id you use? Where did you get the gaskets from, the dealer?
The parts manager threw in the plug washers for free when I purchased the Maser oil filter. The filter was about $38 with tax.

What kind of oil? I shouldn't tell you what I put in, as you will probably pass out if I say. :) I will mention what I didn't put in.

My Maserati Owners Manual recommends AGIP Tecsint SL 5-40 (full synthetic with ratings: API: SL/CF; ACEA: A3/B3/B4; VW: 502.00/505.00; MB: 229.3; CCMC: G5/PD-2; PORSCHE; MASERATI; BMW: Longlife 01; GM-LL-B-025..

Trying to locate this stuff was not hardly worth the effort in research so...when I picked up the oil filter I asked what did they (dealer) put in. I am shown AGIP Sint 2000 10-40 (semi-synthetic with ratings:API: SL/CF; ACEA: A3/B3/B4; VW: 500.00/505.00; CCMC: G5/PD-2; FORD: EU-2C 9011-A / US M2C 153-E.

When I mentioned it was 10-40, it was explained that for Southern California the lower number wasn't as critical due to our temperate winters. O.K. I can agree with that but the price was $9.00 a quart for a semi-syn and not the recommended oil, so I hesitated...I was (unofficially) told that sometimes they threw in Mobil 1 if the customer complained about mechanical noise as Mobil 1 tended to quiet the motor. I got the oil filter and declined to purchase any oil.
 
#12 ·
Oil Change Thread....

Bcube said:
Since I am not even close to the first 6000 mile maintenance schedule and I would like to perform an interim oil change myself, I have a question:

What are the torque values for the oil tank drain bolt and the engine sump drain bolt?

(I am assuming there is a engine sump drain bolt - that was mentioned in another thread after doing a search of this site)

THIS THREAD SHOWS DETAILED PHOTOS....LET ME KNOW HOW YOUR OIL CHANGE GOES...ALSO LET ME KNOW WHERE YOU GET THE WASHERS FROM..THANKS:D
 
#15 ·
Cheap Oil Change

OK, for what it's worth, here's what I do for my car. I buy the filter from the dealer but am looking for a cheaper source. I buy the Shell Rotella at walmart for about $2.50 per quart and take it to Jiffy Lube and have them install it. I watch them carefully to make sure the job is done right and have never had a problem. Jiffy Lube gives a discount if you don't use their oil & filter and just have them do the labor. Total cost is something under $70 for the whole job.

By the way, I worried about the Rotella so I contacted Shell's website and gave them the specs of the Maserati recommended oil and the model of my car. Shell's tech support folks swear up and down that the Rotella is cheaper and better then the factory oil.
 
#16 ·
Torque Specs...

Just so everyone knows, the reason there are torque specs for bolts and nuts is to get the bolt or nut tight enough to get it to start to stretch. That stretch keeps the bolt or nut from backing off. I used to be able to literally feel when the bolt would start to stretch and then follow up with a torque wrench and only be about 1 foot pound off the correct spec. These days since I don't do it on a daily basis, I am about 3 to 4 pounds off... I knew guys who never used a torque wrench, could literally feel the stretch and had been fixing boat and cars for years without any returns...

BTW, this thread is excellent for the DIY person.. The pictures and instruction are fantastic!
 
#18 ·
No sure..

That second plug I am trying to get information on via the diagrams at eurospares... I can't find it but I "think" it's probably access to the oil pick up for the sump pump.... As I said, not sure, but best guess..
 
#20 ·
Hi!

This is a great post on DIY maintenance. I'm somewhat new to this board and am looking to get an idea of maintenance costs and feasibility of working on Maseratis.

My wife has her heart set on a GranSport at the moment and it looks like I'm going to have to deliver on that sometime soon, however with the nearest Maserati dealer about 100 miles away, I would prefer to work on it myself.

Anyway, if there is an area on this forum that I have missed that has all of these DIY threads, please point me in that direction.

Thanks.
 
#21 ·
I don't think there is a specific part of the forum (correct me if I''m wrong) for great DIY threads, but it isn't a bad idea - perhaps make this one (and perhaps the DIY inspection one, and maybe some others) into a sticky? I think the UK maserati forum has (somewhat) done that - would be nice to have the really useful threads all in one place.
 
#23 ·
I'm fairly sure that this is also oil...

Here's what I would do first:

Replace the oil filter if you haven't already and close the other oil drain plugs. Then add some oil to the system with the drain plug open ( that is the one you're unsure of ). If oil drains through that plug, you're sure it's an oil plug and you're home free.

If you fill up the oil to the appropriate level and no oil comes out... then you better do a bit more research. I would then just email the dealer a picture and let them help you.

Hope this helps...

-- Jeff
 
#24 ·
Help!!

Can anyone please help me...I have 2005 Cambiocorsa Spyder and had an independent service shop do an oil change based on the instructions posted here. Now the cars check engine light is on. The exhaust smokes and the car says slow down when I am going up hill at 65 mph and starts slowing down by itself. I know the guy doing the oil change followed the instructions because I watched him and the instructions were pretty specific. I used 7.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w 40, although on the oil it said good for diesel trucks. But the salesperson at Autozone said it should work fine.


Thanks,

Mariam
 
#25 ·
Can anyone please help me...I have 2005 Cambiocorsa Spyder and had an independent service shop do an oil change based on the instructions posted here. Now the cars check engine light is on. The exhaust smokes and the car says slow down when I am going up hill at 65 mph and starts slowing down by itself. I know the guy doing the oil change followed the instructions because I watched him and the instructions were pretty specific. I used 7.5 quarts of Mobil 1 5w 40, although on the oil it said good for diesel trucks. But the salesperson at Autozone said it should work fine.


Thanks,

Mariam
Still sounds like an overfill.. Easy to have a lot of oil left in the system.
 
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