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Hey all....I promised that I'd eventually get around to writing up my notes from doing the DBW install a couple of weekends ago....I've attached it here for those of you that will be trying this yourselves. I was very slow and deliberate and got done in about 2.5 hours. I was anal about going over Jeff's instructions multiple times until I could repeat the connections in my sleep. I've included something that I think is a MUST. Check the last page of the document. It has a copy of the ECU pin-outs but I've added a bunch of additional commentary which should be useful in figuring out how to locate the correct wires in the harness.

Now for the good stuff. Holy Sh*t Batman! It works! The first time out, I broke the rear end loose pulling out because I'm too used to having to press the accelerator down 1/2 way to get the car moving....not any more. Under full-throttle acceleration, the gear changes are lightening quick. I love the change in her and can't wait to get back to the track in the spring. Thanks Jeff!
 

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Hey all....I promised that I'd eventually get around to writing up my notes from doing the DBW install a couple of weekends ago....I've attached it here for those of you that will be trying this yourselves. I was very slow and deliberate and got done in about 2.5 hours. I was anal about going over Jeff's instructions multiple times until I could repeat the connections in my sleep. I've included something that I think is a MUST. Check the last page of the document. It has a copy of the ECU pin-outs but I've added a bunch of additional commentary which should be useful in figuring out how to locate the correct wires in the harness.

Now for the good stuff. Holy Sh*t Batman! It works! The first time out, I broke the rear end loose pulling out because I'm too used to having to press the accelerator down 1/2 way to get the car moving....not any more. Under full-throttle acceleration, the gear changes are lightening quick. I love the change in her and can't wait to get back to the track in the spring. Thanks Jeff!
Very nice right up. I did the same labeling when I did mine but I also noted on each DBW wire label which harness wire it went to and whether by splice or tap. That way I couldn't make a mistake while on my belly.

And yes, any coupe or GS owner that does not have a DBW has no idea what they are missing. Now, after you drive for a week. Disconnect it for a few hours. Then reconnect it. The excitement happens all over and how huge of a difference it makes becomes evident all over !

As a side note, I drilled a small hole under my steering wheel on the right side and installed a carbon fiber flip switch so I can easily go from the 2 modes on the fly. Took 10 minutes.
 

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Phil: great write up -thanks. Did you ever figure out what was going on with your door locks? Was it related to your DIY installation?
 

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Phil, what can I say, that's a first class writup and probably should be a "stikey." I do have a question for you as I'm currently awaiting a DBW, while trying to sell my spyder :D. Just can't seem to want to let it go regardless of family increase situation. Think Jeff did a good job of talking me out of it!

Anywho, my question is mechanical in nature really, and that is, what is the best way to "tap" into the appropriate wires to connect the FD wires? What did you use to strip the section of the ECU harness wire that needed to be tapped?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Very nice right up. I did the same labeling when I did mine but I also noted on each DBW wire label which harness wire it went to and whether by splice or tap. That way I couldn't make a mistake while on my belly.
Ramp - I used your notes as part of my pre-install study and found it very helpful too. Since your install, Jeff now labels all the wires in the FD harness so, it makes it much easier.

As a side note, I drilled a small hole under my steering wheel on the right side and installed a carbon fiber flip switch so I can easily go from the 2 modes on the fly. Took 10 minutes.
Anything special about the switch? I'd like to re-locate mine but wasn't sure if there was anything I needed to know - is it just like an On/Off?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
......what is the best way to "tap" into the appropriate wires to connect the FD wires? What did you use to strip the section of the ECU harness wire that needed to be tapped?

Cheers
Moose - happy to hear that your increase in family size doesn't mean you be leaving our family! :)

To 'tap' into a wire, I found the easiest thing is to take a single edge razor blade or one of those box cutters with a really good blade and gently cut through the wire casing in the direction of the wire (not across). You want to just penetrate enough to get through the casing without cutting any wires. Once you've cut a 1/2 to 3/4 inch slice in the casing, you can pinch the wire with your fingernail in the cut and work your way in to begin separating the plastic from the wire. When you can actually see wire, you can take a very small flat blade screwdriver (the type you'd use to repair eye glasses) and insert it into the casing and under the wire to lift it out and create a separation between the wires and the casing. Then you can either pinch the casing off at either end or, carefully trim the plastic - being sure not to accidentally cut any wires.

Sorry for the long explanation for a something that you'll find will be fairly simple but, hopefully it will help.
 

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Anything special about the switch? I'd like to re-locate mine but wasn't sure if there was anything I needed to know - is it just like an On/Off?
Nope. Just on/off like the one Jeff sends. In fact, I bought the switch only for the cover and ended up using the toggle Jeff sent b/c it fit better.

Here's a pic of the one I bought except this one has an LED and I bought the one without it. I keep the lid closed thus in standard mode and flip it up when I want the more aggressive mode.

About $9 bucks at Pepboys. They also have red and blue but I thought the carbon looked the best.
 

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Great write up. I have three questions:

1. After connecting the FD wires to the Maser harnness wires did you wrap the connections with black electircal tape?

2. Will any solder do or is one type a better choice than another?

3. Where is the best place to put the toggle? I know someone who put it in the glove compartment. I do not think he uses the toggle very often, so it can be hidden and out of the way.

4. I plan on installing the DBW and ECU upgrade all at once. Did you consider the ECU upgrade does a new ECU module just plug in after the DBW installation is completed?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Great write up. I have three questions:

1. After connecting the FD wires to the Maser harnness wires did you wrap the connections with black electircal tape?
For the splices, I used heat shrink tubing which you can buy at RadioShack. Just slide it over one wire before soldering. After the solder cools, slide it over the exposed connection and heat evenly with the flame of a match. Looks very professional and, more importantly, provides great protection.

For the tap connections, I used a brush-on liquid electrical 'tape'. Buy this at HomeDepot or RadioShack. It's like a plastic paint that hardens in about 5 minutes. Don't use the brush in the cap though - it's too large and will make a mess. I used a smaller, artist brush and it works great. Then, just to be sure, after the liquid tape dries, I cut a 1-inch square of electrical tape and folded it over the solder/liquid-taped connection.

After all connections were made and tested out, I wrapped the entire harness in black HOCKEY tape! It's awesome. It is a flat black cloth tape that looks totally factory. I did not want any wires exposed and wanted a clean, professional look when I was done. I ordered this off Amazon from a company called the 'Tape Brothers'. I have so much left over (2 1/2 rolls) I'll be happy to send you one if you can't find it. I found that cloth electrical tape is very hard to find. I didn't want any shiny plastic PVC tape on my harness. I know - picky.

2. Will any solder do or is one type a better choice than another?
Use standard rosin-core solder. On the advice of an electrician, I used 60/40 and went with .062 diameter rather than the thinner or thicker solder coil. It worked very well and flowed easily.

3. Where is the best place to put the toggle? I know someone who put it in the glove compartment. I do not think he uses the toggle very often, so it can be hidden and out of the way.
I have temporarily located the toggle to peek out of the carpet piece just below the glove box. As delivered, the wires to the toggle from the FD harness are not long enough to really do much else so, before you start, I'd decide where you would like it to be permanently mounted and replace the wires with ones of an appropriate length. See RAMP's post to this thread (#2 above) - he located his under the steering column.


4. I plan on installing the DBW and ECU upgrade all at once. Did you consider the ECU upgrade does a new ECU module just plug in after the DBW installation is completed?
I decided not to do the ECU upgrade at this time but, will consider it for another. My understanding is that once you wire in the harness, you're good to go as it has connectors for both the DBW and the ECU upgrades. But, check with Jeff just to be sure.
 

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My understanding is that once you wire in the harness, you're good to go as it has connectors for both the DBW and the ECU upgrades. But, check with Jeff just to be sure.
If you attach ALL the wires on the harness that comes with the DBW, then yes, all you need to do is plug in the ECU. IF you only spliced/tapped the 5 wires needed for the DBW (which I and most of us have done), then you WILL need to splice/tap the rest of the wires from the harness in order to plug in the ECU at some later date.
 

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Great advise and thanks for all of the information. I am going to do this in the spring and will get in touch about the Hockey tape. Now, I just need to think about the toggle switch placement. Unfortunately, I have just put the car away for the winter here in the Northeast.
 

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Hocky tape or also called "friction tape" which I got from LOWES. No problem!

I used the area between the passenger door and dash, where there is a plastic plug (air-bag switch I presume) for the switches for the two modules from Jeff. Looks good and works well. Only problem is the recess required for the two slide switches I obtained from Radio Shack. The resecc is something I figured out, but not sure how I can assist you with it. I am truly happy with the two modules!:)
 

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... Now, I just need to think about the toggle switch placement. ...
I mounted mine under the glove box to the left where I can reach it from the driver's seat. On my 2004 spyder there is a plastic rib up under the glove box area that runs fore and aft and extends vertically down a bit. I just drilled a clearance hole through it and mounted the switch in the hole - the switch was already pre-wired by Jeff and was long enough to reach this spot. I don't switch it over that often so this spot is good for me, because it is not visible and yet reachable and the switch easily found by feel if you know where its mounted.
 

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How often do you actually toggle?

For those with the DBWE, do you tend to drive in one mode more than the other? Is there much of a difference in the "aggressive mode" vs. "less aggressive mode" (My terminology, not sure if it really describes difference.) If not, or if you drive in one mode all the time, why bother with the toggle?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
For those with the DBWE, do you tend to drive in one mode more than the other? Is there much of a difference in the "aggressive mode" vs. "less aggressive mode" (My terminology, not sure if it really describes difference.) If not, or if you drive in one mode all the time, why bother with the toggle?
Good question. Once driving in the more aggressive mode, I have NEVER used the toggle to switch back. I've had the mod for about seven months now and will probably only ever use it this way. So, a valid point about the toggle and fancy installations. Having said that, I do plan on configuring the toggle into my console just to have a pro-look to finish off the whole job.

Right now, it's stuffed under the dash.
 

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Formula Dynamics Drive By Wire Enhancement Module

Yes, we have a DBW / Programming for every modern Maserati including the 4200, QP DuoSelect and Automatica, GranTurismo.

Best Regards,
-- Jeff
 

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Yes, we have a DBW / Programming for every modern Maserati including the 4200, QP DuoSelect and Automatica, GranTurismo.

Best Regards,
-- Jeff
does the DBW comes with installation manual and an ecu diagram?
 
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