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DIY Alternator Replacement (2012) ?

5K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  Rino1313 
#1 ·
Good evening!
My alternator finally went out on my 2012 GranTurismo and needs to be rebuilt. I’m planning on doing the removal/install myself and was looking at the steps in the manual and my engine.
Regarding the intake manifold removal, how do you access the two bolts at the back of the engine block? Does the top half of the plastic cover on the intake manifold simply pop off providing better clearance to remove these bolts that secures the back portion of the manifold to the engine?
 
#5 ·
Thanks all.

I began to tackle this last night and made it pretty far...air filter housing is out, fuel rails are off and a few other minor things.

I still don’t understand how the intake manifold comes off. There are 16 bolts securing it to the engine but there is so little clearance when you get to the back ones. I was hoping that by taking the fuel rails off it would be easier, which it is, but there’s still such little room to work with, especially for the back two. What’s the secret to getting this intake manifold off?!
 
#11 ·
Rino,

Please continue to update this thread please. My '11 GranTurismo Cabrio battery warning light is starting to flash at times when revving the engine. I believe I will need to be replacing my alternator soon as well. This thread will help me greatly in replacing mine. Any additional insight, warnings, notes or whatever will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
#12 ·
That’s exactly what happened to mine! First the battery light was flashing, followed by some suspension lights, followed by the entire dashboard! The car died about 5 minutes after all lights went on.

I’m not a master mechanic, but have done some basic work (brakes, spark plugs, etc.). I’m about 5 hours into the project. If I knew about the wipers, upper and lower cowl coming off I’d be about 3 hours in! I’m replacement the spark plugs too as they’re easily accessible.

I’m having my alt fully rebuilt by a very reputable shop here in South Florida. It’s $125. I also spent approx. $50 on tools and another $70 on the water pump and serpentine belt. I’m now doing spark plugs as well since they’re easily accessible. I’ll be under $350 all in, but around 8 hours of work. It’s not the easiest job, but is time consuming.

I also did my front and rear brakes and rear differential fluid for around $300. Bottom line is that these cars are not as expensive as many think to repair, but don’t underestimate the time it’ll take. It’s nice that this is a weekend car so I have plenty of time to work on it!
 
#13 ·
Rino,

Do you think we can have a private discussion some time in the near future? I also live in South Florida. Not sure where you are, I am on the gulf side. I was also contemplating having mine rebuilt once I get it removed. Can I ask how long from the time the warning light started to flash until it finally gave out completely. Days, weeks?
 
#14 ·
Can't get behind a rebuilt alternator....Several on here have tried and it hasn't worked out....Lots of cheap parts out there to do the rebuild...Cheap Chinese bearings etc....New is the way to go...Jason
 
#19 ·
Well, I think Jason was right on the rebuild advice.... I'm a little confused though. I put the car back together yesterday. I didn't think to check voltage, however. I drove the car for about 45 minutes last night - no issues. I again took it for a drive the morning - another 45 minutes or so. No problems.

This evening I took the kids out in it and a few minutes into the ride the solid battery light came on followed by accessory failure lights...one by one. Same thing as the first time. I was able to make it home and read the voltage of the battery after turning off the car...14.9V. I started it and it stayed at 14.8V for around 2 minutes...then the voltage started to drop rapidly and it eventually feel below 12V over the next two minutes.

It seems a little odd that it stayed in the high 14's prior to doing a rapid decent. In any event, the alternator clearly wasn't working given the rapid decent.

I guess I'm curious if it could be another electrical issue as I'm 100% positive that the alternator was keeping the battery charged the first two runs that I did. Or perhaps the alternator quickly wore out over the two runs?
 
#20 ·
A fully charged battery is 12.6 volts...I would remove the battery and have it load tested...the 14.9 is a way high voltage and you will generally smell the battery gasing or it will feel hot...Jason
 
#21 ·
Battery tested fine. I just put it back in the car - cranked and ran fine by voltage stayed under 12V. Alternator isn’t work. Ugh!

I’ll order a new one and replace - just hope I don’t install, works for a few days and happens again. I know the odds are low, but hope that something else isn’t going on with the electrical...
 
#24 ·
Awe man, sorry to hear of you troubles. I would be totally pissed if that had happened to me. Hope it is just a bad alternator so at least you know it's not something else. Also good advice about changing the valve cover gaskets as those tend to start leaking far to frequently. Keep us posted on how it goes.
 
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